Ok guys (senate ) My injector scaling and latency are pretty close so I am going to start tuning the timing. My question is this, how low in the load scale should I start advancing the timing? Should I only advance the timing around the 80%+ load or can I (and/or should I) advance the timing in lighter load areas like around 60%+?

 

So I had a pipe blow off today while logging and Iam pretty sure right when this happened was when my knock sum flew up to 224!!!!!! Is this even possible? Or could the sensor have somehow picked up the noise of the hose blowing off? It blew off right where it connects to the throttle body.

Also I think my boost gauge is off or I dont have it hooked up right. I have a forge unos MBC hooked up and turned all the way down. I dont feel any increase in power until it hits 5 psi and it says I am maxing out at like 10 or 11??? I put the green spring in my forge WGA and have the mbc hooked up with the bottom going to my j pipe and the side port going to my wga

 

Ok guys I need your help I have no clue how to scale my maf, I am hitting a virtual brick wall and dont know why. As I said before I dont feel any power gain until my gauge registers 5psi, well I surge forward then and doesnt take long before I hit something like a fuel cut or something? and no more power any ideas?

 

So are you saying when your car is under vacuum you dont feel a power difference? Do you have your boost set to 5ps and its going to 10-11 is that waht you are saying? I dont understand what you are asking.

 

from my understanding my car should behave like stock while under vacuum and in the positive pressures is where you begin making more power. I am suspecting when my boost gauge says I am boosting @5.psi I am actually at zero and when it says I am at 10 I am really at 5 I have my mbc turned all. The way down so it should restrict it to 5psi right? Well my. Boost gauge is reading a max of 10 or so and I don't feel any power gain until my boost gauge hits 5psi. At idle it reads 20 vaccuum.

 

Sorry Guess I kinda asked a couple questions. My main concern was why it would be cutting out after reaching boost Levels for only a few seconds.

 

Anyone else running 440s have lean issues when trying to scale anywhere close to 400? In order for me to get my cruise tim in check I have to be scaled all the way down to about 320 and then my idle trim is so far off I have to raised my latency values to over 5 which seems crazy as most examples I see show a scaling of around 12% under the rated flow and latency values around .8, 1.2 etc. Any of yall that experienced this issue when first installing your injectors please help I need some solutions, wondering if I should have flow tested them before install

 

This is what I was thinking I needed to do was adjust my maf just not sure how to. how bad can I hurt my engine if I adjust it the wrong way?

 

Did my post get deleted?

Well if you're increasing the values, it'll make the motor add more fuel, which will drop your afr.

 

Lol ya looks like yours and stevens did. Ok so how far up in the maf scale you think would be a good place to start raising the value? Thanks thunder

 

I went off of what tourbubble posted and worked the way down. At what rpm do you start leaning out.

 

What are your injectors scaled too? According to what I have read generally injectors are scaled about 12% lower than rated flow. This means ours should be at around 387 but at that scaling I am lean from the get go. Well afr stays around 16-16.2 at idle and both the fuel trims are maxed out positive, I would have to set latencys at like 20 to bring it back down which seems ludacris, shouldnt it be idling around 14.7? When cruising the uego bounces back and forth between 14.6-15.2 which is right isnt it? I go wayyy lean when trying to boost and I am afriad that I cut out right when getting into boost due to the extreme lean ( I mean like 17+!!!!!) I think I am gonna start from scratch gonna flash my stock fuel and timing maps back to my car and try scaling up the injectors and maf together little by little and see what happens.

 

If your trims are positive, you need to lower your injector scaling. Your AFRs are fine for cruising. While cruising the ECU is in closed loop and is continually adjusting fuel to keep AFRs as close to 14.7 as possible. At idle it's the same thing.

Are you sure that your ECU is switching into open loop when you are in boost? If you haven't changed your open loop load tables to switch at the time you begin boost, then your ECU will still be trying to keep 14.7 AFRs until it switches to open loop. This will mean higher than 14.7 AFRs while your in boost until the throttle/load conditions are met to switch into open loop and begin using the values found in in the fuel table cells.

 

Ok thank you senate I did not know about the open loop tables, should I set everything above 3000 to 0 in the load tables? or maybe like 30 or 40? and should I mess with the open loop throttle tables? Not sure how to tell where I should change that at since it shows in volts instead of % but I went ahead and brought everything 3000 and up down to 1.54 in the throttle high load and everything 3000 and up to 25 in the load (high octane) tables . I think this will help my upper rpms greatly as I am pretty sure it wasnt switching to open loop as I am still afraid to straight punch the throttle. Is the idle ok? Seems like whether I am at 300 or 400 scaling the afrs are still the same for idle @around 16.1-16.2 I thought it should be closer to 14.7? Plus at idle if I rev it up and let it drop it almost dies then bounces twice before smoothing back out. Also dont know if this would make a difference with the injector scaling and latency but I did port match my intake ports to my head as well during this build

 

Wait so I think I just realized something. So Senate are you saying that no matter what is in the fuel tables, while your in a closed loop the ecu will always strive for 14.7? and once you switch to open loop is when it will actually adjust according to the values I put in the fuel tables?

Side note I never changed out plugs for lower heat range is this bad? My Egts are right about 1100F when cruisin at 60mph dont know if this is good or bad. Also in there a way to log the point when the car goes into open/closed loop operation