Yet another thread about Turboing a 03 lancer.
Oh kay, so when you feel sluggish, what's the timing at? I am at like 1-2 at low low RPM when entering boost and by about 5psi I'm at like 2-4 advance. Do you see knock when you stab the accel hard, or in the middle of a steady pull, or after a shift. Post a pic of a log, use that first option in evoscan that does like a line graph. Put timing, AFR, knock, RPM, TPS on it....then you can see real well what's going on (just make sure you zoom in on it on the part you are focusing on.
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2 things I'd like to add, first is that I see around 150 at 5-7 psi or whatever, so that's good to see you saw the same and that you added when I go to 10-12 I'll still be under 200 load probably
Second thing is about knock. I drove on the stock lancer ROM on 2 different cars, and logged them. I literally saw max counts of know all over the place just randomly cruising, acceling, not so much at WOT....but the basic idea is that I saw crap tons of knock without any changes. My car now doesn't knock near as much, but like some of you....I do see random knocking.
Oh, also about your timing changes not seeming to take effect....are you using the right map? Is it on the high oct? low oct? what rom you guys using?
Second thing is about knock. I drove on the stock lancer ROM on 2 different cars, and logged them. I literally saw max counts of know all over the place just randomly cruising, acceling, not so much at WOT....but the basic idea is that I saw crap tons of knock without any changes. My car now doesn't knock near as much, but like some of you....I do see random knocking.
Oh, also about your timing changes not seeming to take effect....are you using the right map? Is it on the high oct? low oct? what rom you guys using?
it knocks a lot a lot when i shift at high rpms. and just randomly it knocks too. idk if i will have time soon enough to post a big log.... but ill try to get one asap maybe tonight
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1) the metal elbow I put in to keep the radiator hose from melting onto the header was rattling on the header causing alot of false knock
2) I didnt grind enough of the nub on my turbo and so it was rattling on the waterpipe causing more false knock.
If its not consistent knock then I chock it up to some outside source whether a dip in the road or something rattling etc. Especially if doing some general timing lowering in those areas seems to have no effect.
well i use several roads but i know not to use bad roads. they are all nice flat roads in the country. i have heat wrap between the coolant pipe and turbo. like i said everthing is very well buttoned up.
on a positive note i did eliminate some timing up top by advancing the load areas. after taking a look at my log somehow timing got to -9 somehow in the 200 load where it should be -1 or 0... so i increased timing there and it fixed some knock... i could tell by the logs the more positive timing the less knock there was
on a positive note i did eliminate some timing up top by advancing the load areas. after taking a look at my log somehow timing got to -9 somehow in the 200 load where it should be -1 or 0... so i increased timing there and it fixed some knock... i could tell by the logs the more positive timing the less knock there was
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I use the same road 95% of the time. I have a backup road if I see more activity than I am comfortable with but my main road is literally 30 secs from my house. Very little traffic, two straightaways both plenty long enough for WOT 3rd gear pulls so I pull on the two straights then turn around and pull on them back the other way then pull into a little gravel lot on the side where I can check and adjust then do it again 
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-9 is crazy low I can see how you would be getting some knock from that. We were seeing dips of -4 on ryans making me think its pulling from low octane map.
.-9 is crazy low I can see how you would be getting some knock from that. We were seeing dips of -4 on ryans making me think its pulling from low octane map.
nice. roads are a few minutes from my house.
a little off subject but what do we need to do to run nlts? anything because its not working lolz i read somewhere bout running a wire?
a little off subject but what do we need to do to run nlts? anything because its not working lolz i read somewhere bout running a wire?
We have 1 clutch position switch...never tested if either of those things work. Put the limiters real low and test it, don't do it out on the road, just do it in the garage or rolling down the road at 20 mph .
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Hornstar is correct. At least about the nlts. Evos have two clutch switches one fully up position and other fully down. It needs both of these to operate. Probably correct on the launch maps too I just havent ever looked into that.
got it to work!!! ran a wire from the upper clutch switch (we have one) to the ecu..
so from the tan wire on the upper clutch switch to ecu pin 43. its on the 8 pin connector just 2 spots to the left of the pink (rpm) wire on the bottom row
so from the tan wire on the upper clutch switch to ecu pin 43. its on the 8 pin connector just 2 spots to the left of the pink (rpm) wire on the bottom row