Deleted, So it seems like my afrs jump up a little then drop but I am still in the 13s so I am dropping them down more, plus I unhooked my mbc and ran my wga straight to my j pipe which seems to be working to restrict me to 5psi

 

Yes change your plugs. You're probably getting predetonation like crazy which is making the Lean/Knock problem worse.

As for open vs Closed loop tuning. Open loop is the editable portion of your fuel maps. When in closed loop, the ECU reads the voltage/readings from your stock o2 sensor and adjusts fuel/air delivery to get close to 14.7. You want to set your open loop to whenever you should be starting to go to the positive side of boosting. Whenever your turbo starts spooling rpm/throttle %. I havent looked at flashing an ECU in a LONG time, but this is how i remembered it. When you start getting to positive pressure is when your car's stock fuel maps wont be able to compensate for the boost. So thats when you have to start doing it all manually.

 

Thank you sicktght for the rundown this confirms what I thought about the closed loop operation. I have been a able to begin stabilizing the afrs I am down to the 13s and dropping and my knock counts are low with 2 average and occasional 5s. Working on those but I think I will change my plugs to be safe. I did notice a big power gain when I dropped my open loops thresholds and finally started dropping the afrs

 

So my knock counts arent bad but maybe my plugs are causing me to stay a little higher afrs than I like. I am down to an average of low 12s for afrs in the 4000+ rpms and 13s in the 3000+ rpms. Here is all the tables I have modified in ecuflash any and all opinions (as long as they are constructive and not straight bashing lol) are welcome.

 

i just noticed that your load isnt to 120 anymore?

 

ok so get this I got my clutched checked out right, and I need to get it replaced he said its going to cost at least 950, at first I was like why so much, well apparently I have a centerforce clutch or a racing clutch that might have been replaced earlier or was accidently installed when manufactured. Point is I can't turbo my car till later on I have to sell my turbo just to make some of the cash up. This F******** sucks

 

a) thread hijak, and b) grab a lancer repair manual, and do it yourself. A clutch job isnt a job a mere mortal cant handle. And 950+ is a little ridiculous for a clutch. Regardless of what you had in there before, replacing the clutch should be the same.

 

You are correct I had started over completely from scratch, I kept having idling issues before and thought it had something to do with stuff I changed in the beginning long before I put on my kit. As of right now the highest load value I am seeing is 95% so until my tune gets good enough to exceed 100% I am leaving it at 100. My idle is nice and smooth now too. My concerns were that I am already at the low 8s in the fuel map and still around the 12.2-12.4 range. If I max out the fuel tables above 3000 and 80% I will still be only in the low 11s. However havent changed my plugs yet either as sicktght suggested this could be part of the lean issue.

 

+1 you dont even have to pay for the manual senate has been nice enough to post 2 FSM's for our cars which will give you all the info you need to do the clutch job as well as anything else you might need to fix.

 

Also is it just me, or does your ignition timing map look pretty advanced. Have you tried backing off the timing at WOT a little?

Injector scaling, then timing map, then afr map. Rinse and repeat

 

Ya I kinda been mixing and matching lol, I have been working on getting my afrs down first cause I was scared I was gonna blow it running 17+ while in boost. The only timing I have backed off was problems areas where I was getting knock counts above 3. How much cooler plugs you think I need maybe like 2 heat ranges less? Any idea how much my afrs will drop? (if they drop) Should I think about lower my timing in the higher load areas even if there is no knock or very little mostly 2 or less? My most recent log I just did is showing averages of around 13.1-13.3 in the 3000rpm range and around 11.5 in the 80+ load area in the 4000rpm range

EDIT: I went ahead and dropped the timing 2 degrees over the whole spread from 3000+ and 70+

 

03lances PM me your email addy.

 

so were you running on 17 + boost or were you running less, I heard you can run 15 pounds at the most and thats with a full engine internal work.

 

No my afrs were in the 17s which is extremely lean was afraid of going BOOM lol. They need to be around 11 for a safe air fuel mix. I am at 5psi and once I get a good tune I will rehook up my MBC and raise it to 8-10 and retune

 

ya i was at 18 afr when i forst hooked everything up. then i realized i had missed a vacuum line and all was good got it down to the 11's real quick