no its good man lol, maybe I didn't catch that part I just thought the t3/t4 might have the same oil return flange. I guess I will call majestic turbo or Mitsubishi to buy the oil return pipe or something.

 

oil return pipe wont work. its way to long for our cars if u use a similiar mount posistion as the evo manifolds.

u just need the flange to go about 1 inch. so u can attach a -6an or -10an tube to it. and u will also need to get a fitting that u can either have welded to the oil pan or jsut drill and jb weld to the pan so u can attach the tube to your oil pan.

if the oil return line needs a plate to be bolted to it, u need to just get any oil return line for that turbo. u will more then likely have to cut it apart and just use a tube attached to it.

 

like I finally understand everything its just where do I buy the parts? All I need is the flange or am I going to have to get a custom one made or something? I have the hose and the barb to the oil pan. I just need a flange for the oil return thats it.

 

if u have a fitting already that leaves the turbo that you can clamp a tube onto.. thats all you need for the return line..
and for the oil pan u just need something u can attach the tube to(either welded to the pan, or drill and tapped)


post a picture of what you have just incase there is any confusing. oil return side of the turbo and any fittings u have already.(but not the t3 stuff, sicne u know 100% that it wont work)

 

its in my thread 02 lancer es project.

I have the sandwhich adapter and feed line and the 12mm -4an nut.
this is the feed part which is complete

for the return part I have the 5/8 inch barb to the oil pan, A 4 foot rubber hose for high heat which will be cut to fit the length and all im missing is the flange to connect the hose to the turbo?

I just need to know where to buy a flange for my turbo and that will finish my oil feed and return kit. "turbo is a -> TD05HR 9.8T 16G6

 

Hey so I have my turbo and header removed finally (gonna fix that one stud) had to cut one nut off and man handle the other bolt while the third snapped in half!!!!! and the forth is the one that had nothing on it. So anyways can someone tell me for sure the thread size that goes into the 9.8 hotside? This is the whole reason I am having to pull it off because I could not for the life of me find the right size threads when I did my initial build and so I forced some in there (which might have screwed me as is could have ruined the threads in the hotside) but I wont know for sure until i try the correct bolt in there. Is it some kind of non tapered pipe thread or something?

 

Alright so got that stud out (had to buy some cobalt bits and use a 3ft cheater bar to tighten down my bench vise onto the stud) Now I have it secured correctly no more exhaust leak I am gonna make a bracket that connects the 02 housing to the block to help make the welds last a little longer. Now I just have to figure out my radiator issue. I am thinking I can basically screw a metal elbow right onto the top rad outlet and seal it then connect another metal pipe on that so the only rubber is well away from the manifold

 

Just an update got my car back together, got the turbo bolted correctly now, got a peice of metal pipe as an elbow in my rad hose so it wont burn up my hose (really didnt want to move the radiator.) and the new wheel bearing is great no more noise and no pulling at all Finally I can get back to tuning

 

Congrats man!

 

Thanks OZ, I wanna get my evo 8 ecu in there asap too but I wanna have a better base map in my stocker to transfer over, plus I want either the 501 or preferably 399 maf installed as well when I swap the ecu.

 

Yo guys so I made one of those cheap a$$ boost leak testers, works great BTW, my question is this. What is an acceptable rate of decomp? As from what I read slowly depressurizing is normal due to where the valves fall when you stop the engine. would you say 10 second per psi? (so 10 psi would take roughly 1min 40secs to fully depressurize) or 5secs? 20secs? Just would like to know, I found one leak where my UICP connected to my bov recirc pipe, just needed tightened a little, seems like over 10-12psi (not quite sure since I had no one to watch my boost gauge at all times) I hear a rather loud noise that sounds like somewhere in the intake mani but after that with 10psi no noise really although I am going to do a better test later with a friend.

 

Just thought I would give you guys a quick story:

So today I gave my buddy a ride in my car. He has a 240sx with the sr20det swap and ever since I first told him about my plans for my car he basically laughed and asked why I would waste my time turboing a SOHC (as did several other people). Well I finally got my revenge (insert evil laugh) as I watched his face when I gave him a ride and proved to him that when I turboed my car it would cream his car. He despises sohc and swears by the dohc but I think I humbled him a little today. No need to even go head to head, I drove his car right before I took him for a ride and could tell right off it would not last long. Again just a quick story, not one to put down anyones ride I have always supported his car and mods but wanted to open his mind a little more and now I think this changes some of his thinking hehe.

 

lol sweet bro makes me more excited to boost my car, how many psi are you running? and I think when I boost my car I might just run about 7-9 psi. How much hp do you think I should expect when boosting around this range?

 

i notice a huge difference from 6 psi to 9. today my car was only running at 6 and it pissed me off bc i was going along with a gti and wanted to take off but couldnt go as fast as i used to : (. i must adjust my mbc.

 

Well it looks to me like I am hitting about 9 it doesnt quite hit 10. I richened up my afrs in the 3500 4500 range today and fixed my problem I was having with rpms above 2500 with low throttle by adjusting my open loop threscholds. It feels alot smoother and stronger today even than last night when giving my buddy a ride. To be honest I have no clue what my hp although I suspect if I ran the vdr it would give me just shy of 200whp and probably around 220 wtrq. I am hoping to even unleash more with a better tune and after I install my evo 8 ecu and get a 399 maf it should help too. When I have a good tune I am going to take it for a dyno run to really get the accurate results