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Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

02 Lancer ES Turbo Project

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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 01:45 PM
  #451  
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From: TX
Originally Posted by 03lances
Only one really I guess is pull everything you need off before starting to put anything on. Bumper, crash beam (if your using stock evo fmic) headlights, radiator, exhaust mani, etc.
Originally Posted by HornstarBU
Triple check everything
Label anything you think you might forget about with bright blue tape, so you see it.
Double check everything for leaks
Don't go WOT once it's all installed even though I'll bet you want to (lol), not till it's tuned up nice. Better the tune, safer it is.
Have a spare car, cause it's going take longer everyone says.
Put the radiator in a SAFE place, cause it's easy to damage
zip tie the vacuum lines I think
video some of it....I sooo want to see things in pieces. don't get grease on the camera though.
well thats not good thats my only car, I might just get another vehicle later then. I already have the intercooler installed with nothing plugged up. Turbolancer said I dont need to remove the radiator he said just cover it with pizza boxes so you can slide everything down in. How long will it take to get my car back to normal so i can run 5 psi easy?
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 01:55 PM
  #452  
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^ add 3 days to whatever your best guess is, because you know something is going to be "off" or need extra work. Also, don't go boostin' at 5psi without actually tuning, I read about a couple people who've popped things because of bad or no tuning. You can safely run 5 or 15 psi, but only with proper tuning...so don't skimp. Did you say you were getting a tactix cable? or a pro tune?
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 02:05 PM
  #453  
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From: West Coast WA
Originally Posted by steven121
well thats not good thats my only car, I might just get another vehicle later then. I already have the intercooler installed with nothing plugged up. Turbolancer said I dont need to remove the radiator he said just cover it with pizza boxes so you can slide everything down in. How long will it take to get my car back to normal so i can run 5 psi easy?
What???!!! Dude DO NOT Leave your radiator on bro it takes two bolts and the hoses off and it pulls right out and its REALLY easy to damage as HornstarBU stated earlier. It took me 4 days straight working 12-14hours a day to do my install but I did everything at once gauges, clutch, complete engine/trans was out of the car lol. Also you will run into as issue with the front 02 sensor. The stock connector will not reach the 02 housing I had to lengthen it by a couple feet so I could run the harness around by the injectors and down the passenger side of the engine.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #454  
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From: TX
Originally Posted by HornstarBU
^ add 3 days to whatever your best guess is, because you know something is going to be "off" or need extra work. Also, don't go boostin' at 5psi without actually tuning, I read about a couple people who've popped things because of bad or no tuning. You can safely run 5 or 15 psi, but only with proper tuning...so don't skimp. Did you say you were getting a tactix cable? or a pro tune?
well Josh said the car was drivable if I dont boost of course, but Im using 03lances tune for the 5 psi, but he said it might not mesh with my car, so I plan on taking it to this place and get it tuned, or take it to josh in july and tune my ecu there either way if I dont boost the car will be fine.

Originally Posted by 03lances
What???!!! Dude DO NOT Leave your radiator on bro it takes two bolts and the hoses off and it pulls right out and its REALLY easy to damage as HornstarBU stated earlier. It took me 4 days straight working 12-14hours a day to do my install but I did everything at once gauges, clutch, complete engine/trans was out of the car lol. Also you will run into as issue with the front 02 sensor. The stock connector will not reach the 02 housing I had to lengthen it by a couple feet so I could run the harness around by the injectors and down the passenger side of the engine.
ok I will just take it off then it shouldnt be hard too bad I have to drain the coolant... but where do you suggest I lengthen the O2 sensor? is there a plug adapter I can buy?
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 02:34 PM
  #455  
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From: West Coast WA
Originally Posted by steven121
well Josh said the car was drivable if I dont boost of course, but Im using 03lances tune for the 5 psi, but he said it might not mesh with my car, so I plan on taking it to this place and get it tuned, or take it to josh in july and tune my ecu there either way if I dont boost the car will be fine.



ok I will just take it off then it shouldnt be hard too bad I have to drain the coolant... but where do you suggest I lengthen the O2 sensor? is there a plug adapter I can buy?
There might be never looked for one I just cut and spliced in more wire. As long as you can log then you will know how your car is reacting to my tune.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 02:40 PM
  #456  
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From: TX
Originally Posted by 03lances
There might be never looked for one I just cut and spliced in more wire. As long as you can log then you will know how your car is reacting to my tune.
I still need a tactrix cable to log then... hopefully I can get this other job and keep my build on the set date, is there any signs I need to look for if your tune is working? You pretty much had the same stuff on the car right that I have?
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 04:20 PM
  #457  
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Originally Posted by 03lances
What???!!! Dude DO NOT Leave your radiator on bro it takes two bolts and the hoses off and it pulls right out and its REALLY easy to damage as HornstarBU stated earlier. It took me 4 days straight working 12-14hours a day to do my install but I did everything at once gauges, clutch, complete engine/trans was out of the car lol. Also you will run into as issue with the front 02 sensor. The stock connector will not reach the 02 housing I had to lengthen it by a couple feet so I could run the harness around by the injectors and down the passenger side of the engine.
actually You Can leave the radiator in , do you honestly think we pull evo radiators at mitsu to do turbo repairs? That adds another hour to the job+fluids+coolant burping the system+ messing with the bottom mounts that get stuck in the core support ...

Not only that but 5 times out of 10 the radiator develops leaks on the bottom channel from fudging with it since its just plastic sealed to aluminum and not a great design....

I suggest having a friend help you lower it down in if you feel more comfortable but theres no need to remove it unless you feel like putting a new one in when it leaks in a few months
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #458  
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From: Ma
Originally Posted by 03lances
There might be never looked for one I just cut and spliced in more wire. As long as you can log then you will know how your car is reacting to my tune.
Do not lengthen the o2 sensor wires themselves it will ruin the o2 sensor as there shielded wires any cuts in the wires will destroy the volts the computer needs to see ,
lengthen only the car harness side I believe its 16 gauge wire and I suggest heat shrink and solder .....



as for tuning as long as you have the fuel there with the pump I sent ya and you dont go above 5psi you'll be fine on the stock computer as the fuel pump will essentially over fuel it after 2500 rpm given the way its wired.

the lancer is setup to run the fuel pump at a decreased voltage at lower rpm , it runs through a resistor , same setup on the evo , thats why you can swap in a gsx or a walbro 255 (if you can get it to fit)and the car runs as normal , up at 2500 rpm and above the pump gets full voltage as allowed by the wiring meaning you'll get more fuel with a bigger pump swapped in and at 5psi it shouldnt go lean at all

Last edited by turbolancer02; Jun 12, 2010 at 04:35 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 04:31 PM
  #459  
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Oh ya I used shielded wire to lengthen mine forgot about that. And yes EXPERIENCED people have no problem leaving the radiator in but inexperienced? Its worth the ten bucks for more coolant Steven trust me better safe than buying a new radator IMO.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #460  
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From: Ma
Originally Posted by 03lances
Oh ya I used shielded wire to lengthen mine forgot about that. And yes EXPERIENCED people have no problem leaving the radiator in but inexperienced? Its worth the ten bucks for more coolant Steven trust me better safe than buying a new radator IMO.
Um dude I'd check that o2 of yours bro ,you cant solder shielded wire...Once its cut in the center of the wire the resistance increases outside of the o2 allowable specs and makes the o2 inaccurate ...

There designed from the factory to have an allowable resistance ....lengthen the car harness side DO NOT TOUCH the o2 sensor side wires ..


I agree it may be easier to remove it for the inexperienced but its not hard either way this is a mitsubishi lancer Not the apollo lol
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 06:07 PM
  #461  
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Originally Posted by 03lances
Oh ya I used shielded wire to lengthen mine forgot about that. And yes EXPERIENCED people have no problem leaving the radiator in but inexperienced? Its worth the ten bucks for more coolant Steven trust me better safe than buying a new radator IMO.
Originally Posted by turbolancer02
Um dude I'd check that o2 of yours bro ,you cant solder shielded wire...Once its cut in the center of the wire the resistance increases outside of the o2 allowable specs and makes the o2 inaccurate ...

There designed from the factory to have an allowable resistance ....lengthen the car harness side DO NOT TOUCH the o2 sensor side wires ..


I agree it may be easier to remove it for the inexperienced but its not hard either way this is a mitsubishi lancer Not the apollo lol
so how do i exactly lengthen the harness? do I just follow it and cut the zip ties to make it longer or is there like a plug exteder to make my life easier? I just need to know asap before monday.

I can run my lancer with no tune up to 5 psi with the fuel pump? Thats pretty sweet that means I can drive it for a little bit. But im using 03 lances tune as well so everything should go good if the fuel pump is in... Hey turbolancer you got pm
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 07:34 PM
  #462  
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What the hell did I use then? I'm gonna have to talk to dude dowm at the parts store I'm gonna be pissed if I ****ed up my o2 doing that. What's the acceptible resistance?
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 07:47 PM
  #463  
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Originally Posted by 03lances
What the hell did I use then? I'm gonna have to talk to dude dowm at the parts store I'm gonna be pissed if I ****ed up my o2 doing that. What's the acceptible resistance?
well let me know because I need to get these parts completed so I dont run into any issues
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 08:15 PM
  #464  
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Well .y advice is to wait to see exactly where your o2 ends up I know you have an aftermarket housing for yours. If you do have to lengthen it I would take turbolancers advice. My seems ok according to my wideband I am running about stoich when closed loop and afrs are looking good openloop but maybe I got lucky.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 08:54 PM
  #465  
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From: Ma
Originally Posted by 03lances
Well .y advice is to wait to see exactly where your o2 ends up I know you have an aftermarket housing for yours. If you do have to lengthen it I would take turbolancers advice. My seems ok according to my wideband I am running about stoich when closed loop and afrs are looking good openloop but maybe I got lucky.

output voltage when fully warm is 600-900 millivolts, the down side to this is that normally you have to use a "test" harness to verify it since back probing the connector is next to impossible ....


Whoever at the parts store told you it is ok to cut the sensor wires themselves is a complete idiot , If you bought the sensor there talk to the manager and tell him the employee said it was ok to do it and you want a new one ....

Steven wait til you have the turbo mounted then unscrew it from the old manifold dont touch the tip of it ,

take it by the bolt area and screw it into the turbo o2 housing , Now where you unplugged it theres the other end of the plug still by the head,unclip it from its bracket and cut the plug off leaving 3" of wire now plan how your gonna run the wire take some plain automotive 16 gauge wire cut it to length and solder away....

just do one at a time ,finally take your extended harness and plug it into the o2 sensor plug and then zip tie it away from heat , I prefer to use a thermal tube on the wires to keep them protected

Last edited by turbolancer02; Jun 12, 2010 at 08:56 PM.
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