02 Lancer ES Turbo Project
Oh and yes 5psi should be Ok...
Do not under any circumstances even if you feel the need to impress that hot girl at the local hangout up it past 5psi until you have a tune and try not to beat on it to much either ....
Do not under any circumstances even if you feel the need to impress that hot girl at the local hangout up it past 5psi until you have a tune and try not to beat on it to much either ....
needless to say a new correct o2 sensor fixed itwe had a tech letter from mitsu corporate/bosch about people using the bosch or comparable universal o2's telling us if there soldered to ditch them because of resistance issues
Last edited by turbolancer02; Jun 12, 2010 at 09:12 PM.
output voltage when fully warm is 600-900 millivolts, the down side to this is that normally you have to use a "test" harness to verify it since back probing the connector is next to impossible ....
Whoever at the parts store told you it is ok to cut the sensor wires themselves is a complete idiot , If you bought the sensor there talk to the manager and tell him the employee said it was ok to do it and you want a new one ....
Steven wait til you have the turbo mounted then unscrew it from the old manifold dont touch the tip of it ,
take it by the bolt area and screw it into the turbo o2 housing , Now where you unplugged it theres the other end of the plug still by the head,unclip it from its bracket and cut the plug off leaving 3" of wire now plan how your gonna run the wire take some plain automotive 16 gauge wire cut it to length and solder away....
just do one at a time ,finally take your extended harness and plug it into the o2 sensor plug and then zip tie it away from heat , I prefer to use a thermal tube on the wires to keep them protected
Whoever at the parts store told you it is ok to cut the sensor wires themselves is a complete idiot , If you bought the sensor there talk to the manager and tell him the employee said it was ok to do it and you want a new one ....
Steven wait til you have the turbo mounted then unscrew it from the old manifold dont touch the tip of it ,
take it by the bolt area and screw it into the turbo o2 housing , Now where you unplugged it theres the other end of the plug still by the head,unclip it from its bracket and cut the plug off leaving 3" of wire now plan how your gonna run the wire take some plain automotive 16 gauge wire cut it to length and solder away....
just do one at a time ,finally take your extended harness and plug it into the o2 sensor plug and then zip tie it away from heat , I prefer to use a thermal tube on the wires to keep them protected
ok so just buy some 16 gauge wire and just solder the wires together. Any clue where to buy them?
Do not lengthen the o2 sensor wires themselves it will ruin the o2 sensor as there shielded wires any cuts in the wires will destroy the volts the computer needs to see ,
lengthen only the car harness side I believe its 16 gauge wire and I suggest heat shrink and solder .....
as for tuning as long as you have the fuel there with the pump I sent ya and you dont go above 5psi you'll be fine on the stock computer as the fuel pump will essentially over fuel it after 2500 rpm given the way its wired.
the lancer is setup to run the fuel pump at a decreased voltage at lower rpm , it runs through a resistor , same setup on the evo , thats why you can swap in a gsx or a walbro 255 (if you can get it to fit)and the car runs as normal , up at 2500 rpm and above the pump gets full voltage as allowed by the wiring meaning you'll get more fuel with a bigger pump swapped in and at 5psi it shouldnt go lean at all
lengthen only the car harness side I believe its 16 gauge wire and I suggest heat shrink and solder .....
as for tuning as long as you have the fuel there with the pump I sent ya and you dont go above 5psi you'll be fine on the stock computer as the fuel pump will essentially over fuel it after 2500 rpm given the way its wired.
the lancer is setup to run the fuel pump at a decreased voltage at lower rpm , it runs through a resistor , same setup on the evo , thats why you can swap in a gsx or a walbro 255 (if you can get it to fit)and the car runs as normal , up at 2500 rpm and above the pump gets full voltage as allowed by the wiring meaning you'll get more fuel with a bigger pump swapped in and at 5psi it shouldnt go lean at all
Um dude I'd check that o2 of yours bro ,you cant solder shielded wire...Once its cut in the center of the wire the resistance increases outside of the o2 allowable specs and makes the o2 inaccurate ...
There designed from the factory to have an allowable resistance ....lengthen the car harness side DO NOT TOUCH the o2 sensor side wires ..
I agree it may be easier to remove it for the inexperienced but its not hard either way this is a mitsubishi lancer Not the apollo lol
There designed from the factory to have an allowable resistance ....lengthen the car harness side DO NOT TOUCH the o2 sensor side wires ..
I agree it may be easier to remove it for the inexperienced but its not hard either way this is a mitsubishi lancer Not the apollo lol

so how do i exactly lengthen the harness? do I just follow it and cut the zip ties to make it longer or is there like a plug exteder to make my life easier? I just need to know asap before monday.
I can run my lancer with no tune up to 5 psi with the fuel pump? Thats pretty sweet that means I can drive it for a little bit. But im using 03 lances tune as well so everything should go good if the fuel pump is in... Hey turbolancer you got pm
I can run my lancer with no tune up to 5 psi with the fuel pump? Thats pretty sweet that means I can drive it for a little bit. But im using 03 lances tune as well so everything should go good if the fuel pump is in... Hey turbolancer you got pm
Well .y advice is to wait to see exactly where your o2 ends up I know you have an aftermarket housing for yours. If you do have to lengthen it I would take turbolancers advice. My seems ok according to my wideband I am running about stoich when closed loop and afrs are looking good openloop but maybe I got lucky.
output voltage when fully warm is 600-900 millivolts, the down side to this is that normally you have to use a "test" harness to verify it since back probing the connector is next to impossible ....
Whoever at the parts store told you it is ok to cut the sensor wires themselves is a complete idiot , If you bought the sensor there talk to the manager and tell him the employee said it was ok to do it and you want a new one ....
Steven wait til you have the turbo mounted then unscrew it from the old manifold dont touch the tip of it ,
take it by the bolt area and screw it into the turbo o2 housing , Now where you unplugged it theres the other end of the plug still by the head,unclip it from its bracket and cut the plug off leaving 3" of wire now plan how your gonna run the wire take some plain automotive 16 gauge wire cut it to length and solder away....
just do one at a time ,finally take your extended harness and plug it into the o2 sensor plug and then zip tie it away from heat , I prefer to use a thermal tube on the wires to keep them protected
Whoever at the parts store told you it is ok to cut the sensor wires themselves is a complete idiot , If you bought the sensor there talk to the manager and tell him the employee said it was ok to do it and you want a new one ....
Steven wait til you have the turbo mounted then unscrew it from the old manifold dont touch the tip of it ,
take it by the bolt area and screw it into the turbo o2 housing , Now where you unplugged it theres the other end of the plug still by the head,unclip it from its bracket and cut the plug off leaving 3" of wire now plan how your gonna run the wire take some plain automotive 16 gauge wire cut it to length and solder away....
just do one at a time ,finally take your extended harness and plug it into the o2 sensor plug and then zip tie it away from heat , I prefer to use a thermal tube on the wires to keep them protected
on all this issue i cut all 4 of my front o2 sensor wires, soldered them and lenghtend them and havent had a single issue. i cut my dummy wire going over from my wideband so that it wouldnt confuse the ecu so its just running on the 2 stock o2 sensors, just with the lengthened front one about 6" or so.
and as long as you keep the same wauge wire it wont mess with the resistance in the wire itself. went to radioshack and got some 20ga.wire and that did the trick for me.
josh
Incorrect. The wire itself has a certain resistivity, based on the material it is made of. The resistance of the wire changes based on it's length. This is why each AEM wideband is individually calibrated for resistance due to minute differences in the wiring.
yes but i wasnt talking about a wideband i was talking about the stock front o2 sensor. after i cut mine i tested and it still had the same resistance.
its normal to not lengthen the o2 wires themselves , for popular cars they sell o2 sensor extension harnesses...google it
Last edited by turbolancer02; Jun 13, 2010 at 10:26 AM.
Ok So without that other harness cant really tell if my 02 is messing up or not? Unless of course I was having some drivability issues. Since I am not I guess I will leave it as is for now but I plan on having a word with that individual at the parts store. Not very happy with them at the moment
Thanks for clearing this up I dont want to be giving out wrong info
So how much wire are we adding here? 12 inches? I don't think that a short increase should effect resistance much, especially if we use good wire.
If the O2 sensor is that sensitive, can we adjust the value in ecuflash? scale it a little bit or something.
If the O2 sensor is that sensitive, can we adjust the value in ecuflash? scale it a little bit or something.
Arp studs installed!!!
Welll i just installed all the headstuds the one by one method and she runs great!!! Lol 03lance said it should take an hour I worked from 11:40 till 2:45 omg my back hurts, but I triple checked every stud to make sure they were at or or 5 pounds past 60. Right now im just babying the car until I hit 50 miles and when I do that I will gradually increase the power and see if anything happens but so far everything is good. Couldnt get pics becuase I was on a time schedule right now im at work. What I will do is find some pics on here to borrow with valve cover off and give you guys a step by step on how I did it.
Thanks to everyone that helped me out and preventing me from spending 2k plus on a new motor lol
Thanks to everyone that helped me out and preventing me from spending 2k plus on a new motor lol
Welll i just installed all the headstuds the one by one method and she runs great!!! Lol 03lance said it should take an hour I worked from 11:40 till 2:45 omg my back hurts, but I triple checked every stud to make sure they were at or or 5 pounds past 60. Right now im just babying the car until I hit 50 miles and when I do that I will gradually increase the power and see if anything happens but so far everything is good. Couldnt get pics becuase I was on a time schedule right now im at work. What I will do is find some pics on here to borrow with valve cover off and give you guys a step by step on how I did it.
Thanks to everyone that helped me out and preventing me from spending 2k plus on a new motor lol
Thanks to everyone that helped me out and preventing me from spending 2k plus on a new motor lol

I highly highly doubt a company that makes them bosch and mitsu would send us a tech sheet at mitsubishi to ditch them if they've been soldered if its ok to solder sections in
Im 100% positive they know their products better then anyone here since they make themI dont see the issue in just extending the car harness side , it will have no effect on the o2 wiring and its just as easy to do it the correct way, theres absolutely no reason to have to cut the o2 sensor wires .
Last edited by turbolancer02; Jun 13, 2010 at 03:34 PM.






