One more 16g thread - few questions
Hrmmm.. mine idles n runs just fine with the 399.. But i am also forced closed loop due to sensors not liking my setup..
But knock knock(on my head) i dont tune.. i let my local master touringbubble do all his voodoo work on my car with his mystical powers..
only thing that ive noticed on mine is that it seems like after the cars warm, (id say Well past the warm threshold for a few mins) it tries to dial the idle down from 1100-900. I donno why. i normally only notice it like, after i get off the highway, or some other form of abuse where its abviously well beyond jus tbeing warm.
But knock knock(on my head) i dont tune.. i let my local master touringbubble do all his voodoo work on my car with his mystical powers..
only thing that ive noticed on mine is that it seems like after the cars warm, (id say Well past the warm threshold for a few mins) it tries to dial the idle down from 1100-900. I donno why. i normally only notice it like, after i get off the highway, or some other form of abuse where its abviously well beyond jus tbeing warm.
yes i ment open. i always think of it backwards. it just stays on my one map and doesnt adjust.
For some reason, (we assumed it was a sensor going bad) when my car went into closed loop(for like idling) it was slowly raise the revs up to about 4k and hold it, then die down to 1k... then slowly build back up to 4krpm (over about a minute period it would go up)
could be for a few reasons, bad vacuum leak, boost leak, bad sensor.. i havent found any leaks, but im sure i do have a vac leak on my intake manifold becuase the flange on it is warped pretty bad, but i need to replace the gasket...
were gunna start tearing it all back down this week, if it wasnt so cold id be outside right now working on it.. But were gunna start workin on strippin it the rest of the way down, should be able to take another 100lbs out of it.
Last edited by Demon_ni2; Dec 12, 2010 at 10:15 AM.
I love running forced open loop, but latly my AFR have been 13.3 crusing, and the more and more i let off the gas pedal, the RICHER the AFR got, which do not make sense, as in ecuflash 20-70load 2000RPM-4000RPM are all 14.9 AFR and when open loop was working while crusing it would be 15.2 AFR on the actual WB, not sure what happened, but now i have to run closed/ open loop again, dont like it!
I love running forced open loop, but latly my AFR have been 13.3 crusing, and the more and more i let off the gas pedal, the RICHER the AFR got, which do not make sense, as in ecuflash 20-70load 2000RPM-4000RPM are all 14.9 AFR and when open loop was working while crusing it would be 15.2 AFR on the actual WB, not sure what happened, but now i have to run closed/ open loop again, dont like it!
lean out your fuel a little more or jus increase the timing in that area since its open loop. Im setting mine as well tonight then I have to take off the exhaust. Im going to run open test pipe
please read my thread in the lancer tuning section 
Yeah i dont know what happened, Although i did find that my BOV was pretty loose, so im thinking that could have cause the richer AFR, because when the BOV popped off the ran peg rich 10.0 until it finally stalled out. If i can get my tactrix cable to revive, hopefully, i can change back to open loop
