Tires are DD at 32psi and 18psi at the track

 

Ah ok.. Well at 10psi u shouldnt be lightn 2nd gear up that easilly.. (nice that u can).. But do urself a favor and pick up an extra 2 rims(or use the factory ones if u have them still), cheapos 15s like xxr or rotas and put some 22x8 or 24x8x15 slicks on it.. I bet u shave another 3-4tenths off first pass. run the slicks at 12psi (ideally 9psi, But most people dont like how it makes the car feel when rolling, especially at 100mph)

But with the slicks, U need to make sure to Heat them on Every pass.. (IE good burnout, and if u dont have a LSD, u have to make sure u spin both tires.... even if u cant, they will still grip better then street tires.

And if u have 2 extra wheels for the street, go ahead and pick up 2 M/T Drag radials for the street.. Slicks do not work on the street(well, there better then street tires, but not worth wasting them)



U should be able to tuck a 235/50/15 in there without any issues(might need a spacer), Or even jsut go with a 205/50/15 (i know that a common DR size, and is the same size as my DDs now, so they will work without any issues...)

and keep ur DD tires as DD tires... Weekend fun should be all DRs and Slicks.

When ur at the track in the street tires, make sure to stay out of the groove.. Thats full of VHT (or equivlant), which is for drag tires, Street tires do not grip anybetter inside the groove; normally, they get less traction (unless its a really crappy prepped track)

Havent told many people, but my new Tire/wheel setup will be 275/50/15 DRs and 26x8.5x15 slicks Front... (for street n track) and 26x3.5x15 slinnies out back 24/7..This is my next stage build of the car... no... it wont fit.. will need some custom fenders and a little trimming done. but the more rubber the better.. plus u know it will look sick.

 

After much internal struggle, some reviews of data, and just general grumpy-ness about being wrong...I re-did my timing map. 03lances said he'd done it, others as well, and I just told myself...it's not going to help, I'll just keep tweaking. Problem is though, my idle/cruise seemed a little off, and so did rolling from a start.

I re-transcribed the stock map back into the tephra maps, basically removing all the retard adjustments I made due to knock. The knock I was having at cruise was actually not changed by reducing timing...but I never put it back.

So, I'm now driving around with a very close to stock map, and although I'm not hitting WOT, I don't see any knock at partial boost...so that's good. I do hear my throwout bearing rattling though, so I know that think and the clutch needs to come on out....

aluminum flywheel while I'm in there, or should I just get mine resurfaced?
MB8-XTSS by act or something else?
should I get these 440's flow tested, or just put them in used without really knowing?

 

i say hold out on putting them in if you don't fell comfortable and send them in there are quite a few places that can clean them and do more to them for cheap, here's to name a few

http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorserv1.php4
http://injector-rehab.com/shop/injector-cleaning/
http://www.rceng.com/Fuel-Injector-Cleaning-P43C0.aspx
http://www.deatschwerks.com/catalog/...r_services.php

 

In all honesty you will probably save yourself some headache by getting them cleaned and flow tested (speaking from experience ). Once you know there flow rate it will be one less variable to worry about and make it much easier to tune them IMO. As far as the lightweight flywheel goes. Unless you can find one for a good deal I personally dont think its worth it. I will make your car sound cool at idle and rev it up cause the rpms will jump quick and throttle response will improve a little... but for the price I have found them I never coud justify getting one.

 

I swapped over to the 9417xxxx Tephra rom, whatever the #7 one currently in circulation on the evo forums is, and so far it seems different. The car doesn't start quite as nice, if i turn the key it fires up almost then stops. Turn the key once more and it is perfect...but this may be fuel trims or injector size or something related.

The car is still learning it's trims though, so it idles a bit off, and I left all the ICSV stuff stock from the tephra, as well as idle...so I need to change that because the idle is a bit rough, since it's lower than what I had before.

Still...runs fine, nice AFR's in cruise, nice boost AFR's, little leaner though. Car warms up much faster, which is somehow related to the timing retard at startup, not sure exactly where the difference is but it's nice for these cold mornings.

EGT's are also slightly down, which could be timing related, or load related...not sure.

 

i have the same start up issue

 

I ironed it out a little just by using the values from my 9653 rom, but 1 table wasn't in the 9417, and one table was in the 9417 that wasn't in the 9653....and they appear to sorta match, so maybe i'll try using the values, and see what happens. They both sound very "post-cranking injector pulsing-ish" but not exactly...they do have the same number of values, with similar numbers....still, it starts when warm fine, and starts when cold on the second turn, so not terrible.

No Cel's, better smoother accel and letting off the gas (due to needing to eliminate teh 9653 throttle hang), and I think I am getting more power since it's running a bit leaner in the spoolin' up area. I've done some minor tweaking, but haven't spent a week tuning like before...been really busy at work.

 

Man, I hate to spam like this....but the car is now running like a champ.

The issue I had with the idle and initial take off going lean, especially with A/C, turned out to be the idle stepper table. I hadn't ever copied it over, due to the axis not matching....but thanks to Roadspike's Auto ROM, I saw that I could use it, as the initial lancer axis' were labelled wrong.

 

You ready to race me then ? lol

Lets see if you all can keep up

 

If my car isnt totaled Im still going to race you if it is then I'll get an evo and I still will race you even though it won't be a fair advantage.

The insurance lady said it might not be totaled which is a plus but she said MIGHT... so wish me luck guys tomorrow, I have to pick a shop to get it repaired and looked at

 

hornstar about your injectors I might just get mine cleaned to be safe, when I did my build I took a big gamble luckily a baseball didnt come out of the fuel hole and scratch up my cylinder walls lol... But mine have been fine for over a year and while boosting 15-16 pounds they seem to run fine to me. And I still lean out on start ups as well, I tried retarding the timing a bit to allow more fuel not to be burned so it runs at stoich or a tad rich until the O2 sensor kicks in.

 

I keep telling myself they are going to get cleaned, and I will clean them before I put them in....it just doesn't really seem to be necessary right now. I'm only boosting 8psi or less. Injectors are upthere, as far as duty cycle, but...i guess that's reason enough....this week....this week, I'll do it.

Also, startup is perfect, now that I have the "Idle Stepper Lookup Table" matching my stock rom....I mean, perfect idle, hot or cold...very very nice. I'm logging directly to the SD card in the Openport 2.0, so that's nice as well, no lugging the laptop around.

 

sick man thats cool with the sd card I have to get me one of those. Get yourself some bigger inejectors bro and push 15 pounds like me haha

 

Got up this morning...headed out to go to work, realized I was kind of early, figured I'd run across and log a couple pulls to analyze at work when I'm bored....not very impressed with speed anymore...

So...good thing, knock free(like always...super conservative tune i thing...probably heat going to hurt something before knock does)....Bad thing, want more juice. Going to keep bumping timing more until I feel problems, see knock, or perhaps explode my engine....but if I get some knock, pull it back, and am still not puckerin' while accelerating...i'm upping the boost.

List of things to do before upping boost:
increase timing until virtual dyno shows max torque or knock occurs
clean-install-adjust/scale injectors
replace clutch with MB8-XTSS
replace throwout combo thingy
resurface flywheel
....decide on MBC or electronic boost control