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Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

One more 16g thread - few questions

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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 11:32 PM
  #451  
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Originally Posted by 02-Lancer-Es
I just punch it everywhere i go without worries
Even beat a bolt on tunned Evo 8 the other night
I am just nervous to do that when I shift quick because my cel goes crazy flashing. That and its a very noticable loss in power as my ecu is bumping the timing back trying to "fix" the knock issue
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 11:38 PM
  #452  
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Hmm it might be a manual thing , my car is automatic , i dont have the knock light on it either but i do know my car counts 20+ counts of knock on a pull .
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 11:45 PM
  #453  
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Originally Posted by 02-Lancer-Es
Hmm it might be a manual thing , my car is automatic , i dont have the knock light on it either but i do know my car counts 20+ counts of knock on a pull .
That my friend would scare me to death lol. However that being said I have done a great deal of trial and error in adjusting my knock settings and have raised the threschold of when it actually considers something knock and I still get a fast flash now and then in the high rpm range so who knows mine might show the same if I had the knock settings all stock still.
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 11:58 PM
  #454  
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My car has actually been fine for a year now and that is hard mile , alot of Mexico runs and about 200 passes at the track . I have even taken it to 140mph and take the stock motor to 6600 Rpm
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 01:58 AM
  #455  
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wow nice numbers and tune
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 09:50 AM
  #456  
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Originally Posted by 02-Lancer-Es
My car has actually been fine for a year now and that is hard mile , alot of Mexico runs and about 200 passes at the track . I have even taken it to 140mph and take the stock motor to 6600 Rpm
Im still running the stock rev limit. I have put her up to 140 though that was no problem
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #457  
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I think ignoring it is the wrong approach. What I did today to nearly if not fully eradicate the shift knock was to decrease timing in the 10-20 load columns, replace my original "evo" accel enrichment settings, and increased my decel fuel cut retard to match the original lancer settings.

So far, the only knock I see is from a lean condition after shifting in some cases, which are probably more dependent on my inability to SD tune, and less dependent on timing/fuel map stuff. I ran through some fast shifting, some hard shifting, and some careful shifting. Each of the knocks I saw came at slow shift when the wideband read pretty lean for about .5 seconds, so that's probably real knock I need to iron out. Still....pulled much better through the ranks without all that timing getting pulled.

To those with shiftknock, I encourage you not to ignore it though, and try to tune it out with timing changes in the 10-20 area, and the +4000 area by logging only timing, TPS, load, wideband and the other essential items (knocksum). That way you can see where it occurs with some measure of resolution and iron it out.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #458  
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Originally Posted by RoadSpike
Looks pretty good need to fix that boost issue and your car will feel loads better.

As a tip when the turbo is trying to spool up drop the AFR into the low 11's to high 10's and decrease timing just a little bit. This will put more energy into the exhaust and create better spool up. The timing in this area will look pretty flat as the boost increases you want to increase the effeciency of the motor and so timing will remain nearly the same as boost pressure rises with a slight downward trend.

This will make EGT's look really hot so you need to balance this approach into an area of load where you really are going WOT not just partial throttle.

Your boost may be bouncing around due to a loose wastegate arm. It seems like its just flapping in the wind so to speak since the boost don't "come on" so to speak and stay there. The behavior it shows seems like the arm could be pulled open very easily since boost comes up with rpm.
hey roadspike still confused about timing when I read this. I watched a recompile video on tuning and they said more boost and timing = more power? making more boost is the easy part but why would you drop the timing?
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 02:02 PM
  #459  
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Originally Posted by steven121
hey roadspike still confused about timing when I read this. I watched a recompile video on tuning and they said more boost and timing = more power? making more boost is the easy part but why would you drop the timing?
To create heat. Heat creates energy into the exhaust, which decreases spool time.
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 02:14 PM
  #460  
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Originally Posted by HornstarBU
To create heat. Heat creates energy into the exhaust, which decreases spool time.
thats so weird though and all this time after reading i thought you would just increase timing, so when you decrease spool time do you increase in power as well or is the power the same just the spool time increases and you increase timing as the boost drops?
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #461  
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So, like if you watch the green line for example, you don't necessarily want timing to start increasing until you've built up some boost. That's what he means about the "flat spot". retarded timing, causing heat, causing spool, causing increased load.
Attached Thumbnails One more 16g thread - few questions-timing-map.jpg  
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #462  
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Here's my latest virtual dyno....would be better but I had to fiddle around with VE some, and it seems to have thrown my initial AFR's off, so I'll iron that back out and it'll get even better I think.
Attached Thumbnails One more 16g thread - few questions-dyno5.jpg  
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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 07:07 PM
  #463  
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Nice man looking good. I might go for round two with my shift knock. Need to buy another power cord for my laptop expecially since I will be tuning another members car after we do the install.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:27 AM
  #464  
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Originally Posted by steven121
hey roadspike still confused about timing when I read this. I watched a recompile video on tuning and they said more boost and timing = more power? making more boost is the easy part but why would you drop the timing?
Pretty much when the turbo is on the verge of making boost it simply doesn't have the energy in the exhaust to create boost so what you do is drop timing maknig the motor less effecient and it pops more energy into the exhaust stream that way. If your exhuast was glass this scenario would look like orange fire shooting out the exhaust ports.

This increased exhaust energy spins up the turbo harder and faster creating more boost and more pressure which the makes more power as the load rises. You keep the timing basically the same as pressure rises and the motor works toward effeciency as the more pressure and fuel makes it burn faster and thus more energy into the motor.

So what you end up with is a slight decrease in power at the start and a pretty decent increase in low end peak torque.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:32 AM
  #465  
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Also to explain if your getting compressor surge a new BOV like a tial will make it worse not better. The tial holds really well and that means more surge if the turbo is already on the extreme left hand side of the compressor map.

I don't think hornstars flutter could be called surge though. His only happens on a release of throttle which says to me BOV tightness issues instead. However the Mitsubishi turbo is pretty well known for its flutter on any car. It is also known for surging with upgraded compressor wheels since the turbine side is so effective.
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