One more 16g thread - few questions
Oct 9, 2011, 04:16 PM
#558
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Sorry to delay responding on my thread...but the GM 3 port is in the car now. That'll hopefully let me increase boost at various rpm and gears to push my little yellow canary to the max.
I did some logs, and it shows 100% WGDC up until 100 load, which is where I have it set. One thing that is kinda weird is the way it really helps build boost. I didn't get "on it" today, because I'm still scared the radiator is going to leak or something, so I'm making sure to keep an eye on everything (I installed an aluminum radiator today...) But, at about 80 load, it kicks on to 100% and then boost builds crazy fast, jumped straight away to 5 psi and then I hit 100load, and it cut off...boost fell to 3 psi, then ramped back up some to 4-5. So....after all of this, the GM 3port might be too good at what it does, we'll have to see. If I can't set the WGDC low enough to hit a reasonably low amount of boost, it will have all been for naught.
For some reason, I made short videos today while working on the car...Not sure how much sense they make, but I'll post them instead of writing about the entire thing, and just fill in the gaps later.
http://youtu.be/MOzROFx1UsI
http://youtu.be/spvRAt5Ad5I
http://youtu.be/PU_tyHrF9vo
I did some logs, and it shows 100% WGDC up until 100 load, which is where I have it set. One thing that is kinda weird is the way it really helps build boost. I didn't get "on it" today, because I'm still scared the radiator is going to leak or something, so I'm making sure to keep an eye on everything (I installed an aluminum radiator today...) But, at about 80 load, it kicks on to 100% and then boost builds crazy fast, jumped straight away to 5 psi and then I hit 100load, and it cut off...boost fell to 3 psi, then ramped back up some to 4-5. So....after all of this, the GM 3port might be too good at what it does, we'll have to see. If I can't set the WGDC low enough to hit a reasonably low amount of boost, it will have all been for naught.
For some reason, I made short videos today while working on the car...Not sure how much sense they make, but I'll post them instead of writing about the entire thing, and just fill in the gaps later.
http://youtu.be/MOzROFx1UsI
http://youtu.be/spvRAt5Ad5I
http://youtu.be/PU_tyHrF9vo
Oct 10, 2011, 01:41 AM
#559
haha bro my lancer maf restrictor plate fell right off.... so i know it comes off and it was easy.
the lancer maf plate is wayyy more restrictive then the evo one. not to mention if u look at the honey comb or whatever all the little holes aim towards the sensor.
the lancer maf plate is wayyy more restrictive then the evo one. not to mention if u look at the honey comb or whatever all the little holes aim towards the sensor.
Oct 10, 2011, 06:28 AM
#560
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I think I just give up on MAF, I'm going to get a 3inch piece of aluminum tube and just use my same intake and put the air filter right on it.
Oct 10, 2011, 08:47 PM
#561
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Now....I don't have the facts to back this up....
But I was talking to Roadspike today and he casually says, "you know all those idle problems you've been having, maybe you are going about it wrong. Why don't you try leaving the evo settings in there, and then just turn the BISS screw so that you idle at 750...maybe that'll work better" and I'm like there is a freakin light bulb idea!
So, I haven't adjusted anything yet, but let me tell you this....the BISS setting for my car, with the evo rom on it, is way off. The idle drops to about 450 RPM, so I think that's certainly an issue. It may not be the only issue, but I think that needs to get set properly, and I have no idea why I never have done that yet.
If I don't post tomorrow afternoon what the results are...it's because I couldn't stop driving out of shear joy....if I do, it probably didn't work as well as I had hoped and my car may be in a ditch somewhere.
But I was talking to Roadspike today and he casually says, "you know all those idle problems you've been having, maybe you are going about it wrong. Why don't you try leaving the evo settings in there, and then just turn the BISS screw so that you idle at 750...maybe that'll work better" and I'm like there is a freakin light bulb idea!
So, I haven't adjusted anything yet, but let me tell you this....the BISS setting for my car, with the evo rom on it, is way off. The idle drops to about 450 RPM, so I think that's certainly an issue. It may not be the only issue, but I think that needs to get set properly, and I have no idea why I never have done that yet.
If I don't post tomorrow afternoon what the results are...it's because I couldn't stop driving out of shear joy....if I do, it probably didn't work as well as I had hoped and my car may be in a ditch somewhere.
Oct 10, 2011, 10:43 PM
#563
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I would love if that fixes the idle overall. Turning my idle to like 900 I think has fixed most of it but its pretty rough with ac on and wants to die.
Oct 11, 2011, 07:01 AM
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Mine is smooth and steady when it sits, but it always dips a little low with A/C off, and it always has trouble switching between a/c on and off. Idle at startup has always been a pain as well. The thing that lets me know the BISS isn't set right, is that the idle drops so much with SAS mode activated, so here's hoping!....hard to work when you want to try something on the car, am I right?
Oct 11, 2011, 01:43 PM
#569
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*edit* actually, everyone go do that right now, lancer rom, roadspike rom, evo rom...whatever you have, and let me know the result, just make sure you are at operating temp with all accessories off.
Oct 11, 2011, 06:41 PM
#570
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My car has never driven so well since before the Turbo...I can not put it into words. But...I will try.
I never noticed how bad it had gotten, but going from a stop to 1st was very rocky. AFR would swing rich or lean, and make rattle noises as the rpms dipped or jumped around. When I switched gears it would jerk pretty bad, didn't feel smooth at all. When WOT, I saw a fair amount of shift knock....all of that seems gone now. Literally, it shifts like butter, idles like a champ, just rocks my world!
Here's what I did: Put evo settings back in the idle section, and flashed the ROM. Then, I set the BISS calibration mode in evoscan, and the car died. I turned the BISS screw out 1 full turn, then started the car again, and set BISS mode....died again. 1 more full turn out, and the car didn't die this time, but sat at 300 rpm. I jumped out, went to the engine, and turned it 4 more full turns and listened to the idle climb steadily to about 950 or so. I tightened it back down 1.5 turns, and it sat right at what I thought was 750 rpm.
Turned off BISS mode and went for a quick drive, literally drove like a champ right away. Shifts were the first thing I noticed just working so well. Next I noticed the idle was pretty high. My ISCV trim was at 9 before I started this adjustment, it fell to about 6 within a couple minutes, but still idled high. After about 4-5 minutes of driving and stopping at stop signs and what not, it had dropped to about ...-1 or so, and was hitting target idle exactly. It was the evo setting, so I turned back to just my target idle settings, but left stepper and ISCV and all that. It loved that as well, idled perfectly at 702 or whatever, turned the A/C on, it flip flopped between them roughly at first, until the ISCV trim for A/C on got lined out, and then it was just perfect.
I'm sorry for droning on there so bad, but this was so freakin huge as far as the cars drivability goes. I wanted to just stay out all night driving...but I had to stop, dinner and all that jazz.
Also, bought a new boost gauge (AEM analog) since my glowshift is a real piece of junk. There is something electrically wrong with the sender, and rather than replace it...I'm just stepping up to a good quality one.
I never noticed how bad it had gotten, but going from a stop to 1st was very rocky. AFR would swing rich or lean, and make rattle noises as the rpms dipped or jumped around. When I switched gears it would jerk pretty bad, didn't feel smooth at all. When WOT, I saw a fair amount of shift knock....all of that seems gone now. Literally, it shifts like butter, idles like a champ, just rocks my world!
Here's what I did: Put evo settings back in the idle section, and flashed the ROM. Then, I set the BISS calibration mode in evoscan, and the car died. I turned the BISS screw out 1 full turn, then started the car again, and set BISS mode....died again. 1 more full turn out, and the car didn't die this time, but sat at 300 rpm. I jumped out, went to the engine, and turned it 4 more full turns and listened to the idle climb steadily to about 950 or so. I tightened it back down 1.5 turns, and it sat right at what I thought was 750 rpm.
Turned off BISS mode and went for a quick drive, literally drove like a champ right away. Shifts were the first thing I noticed just working so well. Next I noticed the idle was pretty high. My ISCV trim was at 9 before I started this adjustment, it fell to about 6 within a couple minutes, but still idled high. After about 4-5 minutes of driving and stopping at stop signs and what not, it had dropped to about ...-1 or so, and was hitting target idle exactly. It was the evo setting, so I turned back to just my target idle settings, but left stepper and ISCV and all that. It loved that as well, idled perfectly at 702 or whatever, turned the A/C on, it flip flopped between them roughly at first, until the ISCV trim for A/C on got lined out, and then it was just perfect.
I'm sorry for droning on there so bad, but this was so freakin huge as far as the cars drivability goes. I wanted to just stay out all night driving...but I had to stop, dinner and all that jazz.
Also, bought a new boost gauge (AEM analog) since my glowshift is a real piece of junk. There is something electrically wrong with the sender, and rather than replace it...I'm just stepping up to a good quality one.