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Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

Oh Look another Turbo Thread - RyanCB's turn.

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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #316  
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From: chatsworth
axles sealz eh? I replaced those when I rebuilt the transmission.
Here's the part number for both

MN132370

*Part interchanges with part# MD755526
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:35 PM
  #317  
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Yeah these are new ones guess got them installed wrong or something
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:37 PM
  #318  
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From: chatsworth
I popped mine in with the differential removed, and bearings removed. Used the old seals and a 2x4 to press them into the transmission case.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:30 PM
  #319  
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axle seal replaced...never again. I almost got fed up and paid to have it done tonight my down pipe is right in the way of getting any sort of good swing to hit it in even with a oil seal installer. Plus i was being lazy and didn't want to remove it. Im praying it stays good...drove it about 10mins tonight and no leaks yet that i can tell. I swear the car is trying to kill me with simple problems that are a pain in the ***. Anyways i think I'm going to try for first friday in feb for getting english to tune the car. I still go back and forth on SD. It seems like SD is better overall but people either love it or hate it? I just want my car to idle well with the ac on again lol
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 12:17 AM
  #320  
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alright so got my appt setup with english for the 3rd of feb. Looks like I also have a e85 station within 10mins of my house. E85 or not. Since my 440s are modded and have the walbro i shouldn't have any issues with e85? Am i missing any other parts we need to replace to convert to E85? I think I'm going to have english do SD as well. Hopefully no more problems with the car I think the axle seals are fixed but still am cautious since I spilled a bunch of fluid when filling the tranny so i know thats some of the drip i have had.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:57 PM
  #321  
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new toys showed up...


Last edited by ryancb; Jan 25, 2012 at 10:19 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 08:10 PM
  #322  
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From: Federal Way,WA








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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 08:22 PM
  #323  
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Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 09:32 PM
  #324  
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Well 215/45/17 is a no go. Even with raising the car 1/4in still wouldn't fit with out rubbing



The orig size i ordered 205/45/17 will be in tuesday and shouldn't have a problem.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 07:42 AM
  #325  
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When I was running my 17s, I had to do 35s and those kept popping left and right.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 08:04 AM
  #326  
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yeah i might need to trim the lip of the bumper but the 215s were rubbing the back inner fender area. just barley. From what i have been told by the tire shop and read online 205/45/17 will be good. I don't care much about being slammed to the ground so i still have play with my coil overs if getting rubbing with those.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 10:58 AM
  #327  
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Cant wait for Feb 3rd!!!!
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 11:06 AM
  #328  
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x2 finally know what your really putting down and see hopefully mine be able to be unleashed .
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 02:09 PM
  #329  
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So more and more i think about it if head swap doesn't get rid of my noise only thing left is bearings or wrist pins. Anyone have a parts list for building a 4g94? I know of some of the more obvious stuff like acl race bearings, arp head studs, i think ill stick with Pauter rods and wiseco pistons. I think I would go back to 9:5:1 CR so can get a little more out of Pump...Im getting a alt map tune friday with e85 but will usually still be on pump for now. I figure over next few months I can rebuild my old motor that i know has no leaks or problems. Little bummed out since I'm pretty sure at this point its a problem with bottom end. I know its not Stevens fault either but just sucks since this is gonna cost me a lot more then i really wanted to spend on this car. I figure i can get my old one machined and do most of the rebuild myself or with minimal assistance. Ideas? Thoughts? Anything :-\?
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #330  
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From: chatsworth
Easy to build yourself.. just buy your pistons/rods/bearings. Machine your block .020 over and get it hot ranked with the freeze plugs removed. I have 200 miles since the rebuild. I have a stretch gauge to measure the rod bolt stretch too when installation of your new rods much more accurate then torque angle method. Becareful not to drop the piston when installing that happened to me and it scratched it up pretty good. And be extremely careful installing the piston rings the molten ones are real brittle and can break if stretched too far. Lube everything up main bearings and rod bearings. If I were you I'd just tear aparrt the simile bottom end and find out why its tapping. You should make a sound bite.
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