they should, and yeah most of us wouldnt be doing it ourselves cause you'll need a wideband and knowledge of what you're messing with.

 

I just meant get rid of the richness at higher rpms. That itself adds mpg and a couple hp. But I believe you could make a super mpg map and save that then make a low mpg high hp map and save that, then just flash in each map when you want them, but that would require a reflash each time. right?

 

Why would you want to be reflashing everytime? You make a High Octane fuel map w/ High Ignition map for your daily run. And for back-up just incase anything happens, you have the Low_octane map w/ Low ignition map. Go back a few posts and you'll get more answers....

either way you look at it, You're making more power and gaining more MPG's.

 

I was answering Touge about the two maps. Because can't you make one map to get more power with and then make a map that has less power but you get better gas mileage out of? Then wouldn't you have to switch the 2 maps? I meant for low octane, cause I always use the lowest cause I'm cheap. i might just be all caught up in this mess that I don't understand.

 

The car has two maps built in, one for high octane and one for low. The lower octane maps pull back timing and run you richer to compensate for predetonation and save the engine. The engine uses this map if you get a bad tank of gas, or senses too much knocking, or anything for that matter outside of optimal operating conditions. As for gas mileage, you should only have to use 1 map for everything for NA. Just devise a map that leans out the factory richness a little bit on the low end and a lot on the high. With a NA car shoot for a 13.0 to 1 AFR ratio to get the best MPG, power, and Safety. With Turbo you wanna go much richer, closer to 11.5 to 1. But with this flash you guys have to take into account open and closed loop tuning.

When in closed loop tuning (say for instance under 50% load and under 3500 rpms) the ecu will be adjusting your AFR based on the lookup table (the file that we are editing), the O2 sensor's output, and the MAF output. The car calculates the fuel delivery based on the incoming airflow, then uses the o2 sensor to determine what air fuel ratio you are running at, then goes to the lookup table and see's what it should be at, if its off at all the ecu will adjust by adding or subtracting fuel. Sooooo, tuning this map for Closed loop function is just a matter of dialing in what AFR you want to achieve during closed loop operation, and the ECU will control fuel delivery accordingly. HOWEVER, open loop is another ballgame.

During open loop the O2 sensor's reading is not taken into account and the ecu dumps in as much fuel as possible, which could mean you are running super rich, or if you are flowing a ton more air (ie: forced induction) you could be running lean. Say for instance you have in upgraded 370cc injectors which flow X amount more fuel per injector pulse than the stockers, which means during open loop fuel dump mode you are dumping in X more fuel than before. So if before the injector install on your wideband you were running an 11afr at WOT then now you would be running even richer (9 to 10afr) because the upgraded injectors are throwing in even more fuel. The computer goes to the fuel maps, does calculations based on the AFR that is in that table, and controls fuel delivery that way, but it DOES NOT adjust to meet the AFR in the table. The AFR in the table is more of a reference point. If at 100% throttle at 5500rpms in the fuel table you have a desired 12 to 1 afr ratio, however your wideband at the same point reads 10afr then the difference is 2. You need to then change the number in the table to 14 to scale back fuel delivery even more, achieving closer to an actual afr of 12.

Either that whole thing is right and very confusing to everyone, or its wrong and i've confused myself. Either way, flashing your ecu's tables isnt an easy task and requires a lot of thinking and knowing what your engine does and why it does it. Also keep in mind you want to watch your timing too, you might need to pull some timing in the upper rpm/load areas to avoid detonation. Just be careful when using all of this, dont just jump in, change the numbers, and then go on your merry way

 

Sicktight, thanks man. Really appreciate the writeup.

 

Great explanation.

 

^+1... good WU. That's why you gonna help me tune my car..lol

 

I'm still confused, but that is why I am going to take my car to a local tuning shop. Plus they will be able to dyno it for me.

 

Makes a little more sense to me now....so basically if you don't know what your doing...take it to a professional...

-the end-

or read up and risk it....

 

I think that's the true answer.... Seeing as how my car is still in the shop from the butchery I did to the wiring. . . I'll let a professional handle it! That's just me though.

 

what did u do^^^???????

 

Haha dont fret my young jedi apprentice. You should have seen the wiring mess i made in my first two cars haha. Its the only way you learn what not to do though. A kid in my town bought my last car from me and still curses my ghetto *** wiring job for my electronics and gauges

 

it would be for turbo lancers...sorry. if ther was a lancer around dfw that i could find i wouldt mind tuning that either...but mine would bascily be for FI Lancers w/ some supporting mods....like the ones in my sig.

 

sicktght311 why just 9psi?? with a good tune and IC u can easy run 10-11psi....also depends on the gas in NY....in texas we get 93oct....and Rob said 10-11psi it pretty safe....but after i typed this i saw ur doing RC 370cc injectors....go with 2002-2003 WRX injectors....they are like 420cc and u can get a set for around $150 with low miles on them...then can run 10-11psi safe @93oct