When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That's like asking about a tune, everyone does it different lol. I've been happy with the T-hooks up front and axel straps around the rear subframe. I'm not a fan of strapping down tires nor is there room for that really in an enclosed. Some ancient threads on the topic. Tie down wise I always use MAC's http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/
My friends any I also use Mac's. I have the padded loops that go through the wheels, and the straps with the ratchets on the end (thank God for someone thinking of that). I love them.
Mac's and t hooks all around but their axle straps are also nice to have if you plan to tow other vehicles too. Their stuff isn't cheap but its certainly nice. They sell some decent package kits with a bag to keep it together which is nice. You will not receive them in a timely manor though as stuff is made to order and usually around a 2 week leadtime.
here's a few bad pics of the car, haven't really had a chance been catching up with work and other stuff today. it barely fits in the garge, but won't be in there most days - girlrfiend's prius will go there now. the surface rust on this tow hitch doesn't look too bad, and it looks like the previous owner installed some kind of aftermarket trailer brake controller?
You can go to town on the rust with any of the rust eater sprays. I like the Krud Kutter stuff or the Loctite Extend. Then prime it and paint it. I personally wouldn't let that linger on my truck lol. Wear eye protection and a mask cause that sht's toxic.
Do the direct hook and I opted for 10' but 8' would be plenty honestly.
I dont care for the axle straps that are not detachable so my preference is to purchase axle straps separate and opt for their straps with the twisted hook and then you can add whatever accessories to that.
They were very helpful on the phone so give them a ring and see what they have to say.
You can go to town on the rust with any of the rust eater sprays. I like the Krud Kutter stuff or the Loctite Extend. Then prime it and paint it. I personally wouldn't let that linger on my truck lol. Wear eye protection and a mask cause that sht's toxic.
yup i've got primer and stuff and then can paint it whenever.
Originally Posted by heel2toe
Do the direct hook and I opted for 10' but 8' would be plenty honestly.
I dont care for the axle straps that are not detachable so my preference is to purchase axle straps separate and opt for their straps with the twisted hook and then you can add whatever accessories to that.
They were very helpful on the phone so give them a ring and see what they have to say.
i actually was just on the phone with them. they said pro pack, 8ft strap length, 40" axle strap, direct hook with chains depending on the trailer... pretty much every box checked i was like thaat is a little more then i was expecting to pay. obviously not gonna cheap out on them but i assume it's overkill.
and yea the lead time is going to be tricky as i need to start trailering on the 10th.
as far as tying down, do u guys just connect it to the wheels?
as far as tying down, do u guys just connect it to the wheels?
a guy I knows runs a tow company. They use straps on the wheels for a few reasons. The two I remember are
1. They will fit multiple vehicles
and, important to me
2. They don't like compressing the suspension.
he gave me a bunch of reasons of *why* they don't like to tie down the car. It's been so long I don't remember, though. I've just done it that way since. Does it really matter? Who knows. You're probably gonna get opinions both ways, anyway
a guy I knows runs a tow company. They use straps on the wheels for a few reasons. The two I remember are
1. They will fit multiple vehicles
and, important to me
2. They don't like compressing the suspension.
he gave me a bunch of reasons of *why* they don't like to tie down the car. It's been so long I don't remember, though. I've just done it that way since. Does it really matter? Who knows. You're probably gonna get opinions both ways, anyway
do you use the net kind of deal that covers the wheel? or just use the straps through the spokes?
It shows it in the pics on the mac website. The wheel strap goes though the spoke/barrel of the wheel and it has a thick pad on it to protect the wheel.
If you're going to use axle straps you can either go through the barrel of the wheel or could also loop it through the rear subframe. In my opinion it's a case by case scenario as every trailer is different and tie down points vary. You dont want your straps sideways so the straighter shot the better. Rear straps pull when braking and fronts pull when accelerating (in theory car shouldn't move at all but just talking conceptual here)
All that. I personally insist on the chassis instead of the wheels for many reasons. Mostly because the wheels move, they're made to, and pulling them in any direction with that kind of torque isn't a great idea to me. If you use the over wheel ones it pulls straight down, but then you're not "strapping to" anything, it's just friction. With the exemption of the net one, but good luck gettin the net on if you're lowered a lot. That's a jeep thing. Tis why I use the oem front T-hook locations and rear axels around sub. It's hooked TO the car regardless of any damage, and it can't back out, slip off, or **** the wheels. Plus, it allows you to x-cross the straps which is always a good idea.
I used to run to the rear T hook locations with an open trailer because you can get to it, but not so much with enclosed.
Also MAC's website isn't the only location their stuff is sold. Someone else may have it in stock.