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Local Pittsburgh meet part deux

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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 06:33 AM
  #541  
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What other supporting mods would i need to support cbrd BBX turbo. Mods are in my sig! I know fuel pump, Buying bushcur's double pump, and injectors, probably buying DW 1500cc injectors for E85!! Do i really need a bigger FMIC for BBX? guessing ARP head studs and Rod bolts?? Turbo comes ported with wastegate. Motor mounts? I know cams help but dont think there needed? just asking because im on a budget! thanks guys!
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 07:03 AM
  #542  
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Probably would want a bigger FMIC to support the BBX. Head Studs for sure especially with E85. Not sure the motor mounts are entirely necessary.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 07:58 AM
  #543  
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Originally Posted by MondoBongo
i have the same little plastic OE scoops and i have just always been skepticle of their function. anecdotally i've heard they have an effect, but feel like it would be minimal. anyways, completely off topic....

i'm interested to see how these magic pads hold up.

one nice thing i was experiencing on the track is that through the last couple turns the brakes would start to fade out just a bit, but the front straight seemed to give them enough cool down time to reset them to an acceptable level.
Im not too sure what the OEM scoops really for either. They are there so I leave them. I have even heard mixed reviews on the units with the tubing that runs directly to the calipers. But I guess there are not that many options when it comes to cooling your breaks on an Evo. I went to Hawks website and was reading the little information they have about their compounds. I think I'm going to try the DTC70's. They are probably overkill but I want something that Will give me a good bit and won't fade. The one thing that stinks with doing stuff to your car is you never really know what you are getting till you buy it and try it. Kinda stinks thought because the trial and error of what different breaks, tires, etc. is darn expensive.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 08:43 AM
  #544  
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yeah it is quite pricey to do your own R&D.

on the upside i have changing brake pads almost down to a science and can usually get all four corners done in two hours less.

if i cut out the beer drinking and general F'ing around that goes hand in hand with car work i could probably do it in half the time.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 09:00 AM
  #545  
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Originally Posted by metalsaber
Probably would want a bigger FMIC to support the BBX. Head Studs for sure especially with E85. Not sure the motor mounts are entirely necessary.
Thanks!! yea i didnt think motor mounts where necessary either, so ill scratch that. so basically FMIC,Injectors, Fuel Pump, and head studs for bbx turbo. id get manifold and cams in the future depending on when i could get money but thanks for the advice!!
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 09:45 AM
  #546  
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Was just out in the bimmer scouting back roads for gravel and I got behind 2 guys in an apex silver VIII pulling into the new shop n save robinson plaza. Anyone on the forum?
Plate began with a "G" and he had a cf splitter
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #547  
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Originally Posted by Eric Morse
Was just out in the bimmer scouting back roads for gravel and I got behind 2 guys in an apex silver VIII pulling into the new shop n save robinson plaza. Anyone on the forum?
Plate began with a "G" and he had a cf splitter
haha that was me
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:10 AM
  #548  
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figured it out.

Last edited by metalsaber; Apr 1, 2010 at 12:01 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:03 PM
  #549  
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Brant, maybe try experimenting with some spacer combinations to shift it flush before you bend the arms.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:08 PM
  #550  
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i think i may go insane sitting here in my office watching how nice it is out.....especially knowing i still have 2 hrs till i get out of this hell i am in
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:14 PM
  #551  
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Originally Posted by holiday63
Brant, maybe try experimenting with some spacer combinations to shift it flush before you bend the arms.

I loosened up the 4 bolts. I was able to shift the hood. I have it now that it's about even, but I have to give a nice shove to get it to latch. Seem like the latch is now off to the one side. I probably need to see if I can shift that over to get it to latch easier.

Thank you previous owner for wanting to put on a CF hood. /bleh

Last edited by metalsaber; Apr 1, 2010 at 12:17 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:46 PM
  #552  
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Any one have an extra MBC for sale?? my friend with SRT-4 is looking for one. He will probably follow me down to waterfront on the 10th! Maybe try and get supra, 350z, and GTR too who knows...
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 01:16 PM
  #553  
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Ferodo 2500 are good all around pads! Race pads will work better but come at a cost, brake rotors and unbearable squeel on the streets. Race pads are great on the track but still don't give me as much braking as I'd like. I've been in some serious scary spots where I was wondering if I was going to slow down enough. Lol.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 01:25 PM
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Here is a write up on the performance friction pads I am getting, they seemed to have done as well if not slightly better during this test....AMS seems to like these pads a lot and they have excellent characteristics for street use as well as capable on a track to a certain degree as any street/track pad..

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/1482692-post1.html

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/P...mance.com.html
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 01:56 PM
  #555  
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From: The Sticks
Originally Posted by Eric Morse
The real issue with brake pads isn't allways the level of friction it provides but the fact that they are being used outside their intended temp range (cooking them) If you can keep a street pad like the HPS or HP+ cool with ducting you might be OK. Another thing that will effect brake fade is the tires. If you have nt01's your going to introduce much more heat into the braking system than you would using some walmart buy 3 get one free tires.

HPS/+ pads are HORRIBLE in my experience on the track and i've actually had minor fade issues on the VIII with them on some "spirited" back roads. Only thing i've been successful with on the track so far that isn't an insane change every race pad is EBC Yellow stuff's which work great on the street too (still need 400+ temps really) and have, imo, great life!
Ordered a set of EBC Yellows from MAP. Since I'll be at Beaver Run a few times this year, I'll run the Hawk's this time and when the Yellows come in, I'll swap them out. That way, I can give a full review of the two.
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