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Local Pittsburgh meet part deux

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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 11:19 AM
  #526  
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Any body recommend any different waxes or polishes??? This will be my first time waxing and polishing my car and don't really want to **** up and i want to get the right wax and polishes! Any advice would be nice!!! Thanks
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 12:13 PM
  #527  
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Josh, before you even think about using a polish, buy yourself a good claybar. Wash the car very thoroughly and clay it to get all the pollutants off the paint. If there's stuff stuck to the paint and you start polishing you can make all kind of swirls in the clear coat. some guys even use a paint cleaner after the clay.

are you going to use an orbital polisher for polish application? I like menzerna's product line and usually dual stage my polishes from intense polish to finishing polish, but to get the most out of a polish you need a machine. There's like no way to cut clear coat by hand.

If you want to borrow a machine You can use my porter cable. I'll let you use some polish too. As for wax, I like pinnacles carnauba wax and p21s carnauba. Stuff is expensive, but I think the results speak for themselves. Pm me if you want to know more, as I could easily write an essay on this topic.

Last edited by holiday63; Mar 31, 2010 at 12:15 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 01:01 PM
  #528  
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I've been using ICE clear wax for years since it came out.
works really well for me.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #529  
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From: The Sticks
Originally Posted by Eric Morse
I've been using ICE clear wax for years since it came out.
works really well for me.
I've used this with good success. I recommend doing the clay bar deal as well. You'll be surprised how good it looks afterwards. Sadly it never stays that nice.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #530  
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Originally Posted by holiday63
Josh, before you even think about using a polish, buy yourself a good claybar. Wash the car very thoroughly and clay it to get all the pollutants off the paint. If there's stuff stuck to the paint and you start polishing you can make all kind of swirls in the clear coat. some guys even use a paint cleaner after the clay.

are you going to use an orbital polisher for polish application? I like menzerna's product line and usually dual stage my polishes from intense polish to finishing polish, but to get the most out of a polish you need a machine. There's like no way to cut clear coat by hand.

If you want to borrow a machine You can use my porter cable. I'll let you use some polish too. As for wax, I like pinnacles carnauba wax and p21s carnauba. Stuff is expensive, but I think the results speak for themselves. Pm me if you want to know more, as I could easily write an essay on this topic.
I'll have to send you a PM looking at buying a good starting kit to detail, will have to run it by you.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 01:57 PM
  #531  
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I was wondering what kind of brakes you guys could recommend. I have used Hawk HP Plus pads on the track and I felt like I was getting too much heat fatigue while at Beaver Run. I was wondering what kind you guys thought stood up well there.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 02:30 PM
  #532  
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do u guys think 18 x 8.5 +30 offset will have any problems fitting into a 255 45 18 tire? Will this rub any?
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #533  
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Originally Posted by JMCZ
I was wondering what kind of brakes you guys could recommend. I have used Hawk HP Plus pads on the track and I felt like I was getting too much heat fatigue while at Beaver Run. I was wondering what kind you guys thought stood up well there.
i've had reasonable results with the OE pads. if i drag the brakes too much i lose them, but generally speaking on the north track if i'm braking more or less like i should they do a pretty fair job of holding.

i had a bit of a scare heading in to turn 9 and having the pedal go the whole way with no resistance and no affect on my speed, but that was early on in one of my first sessions where i wasn't exactly using my brakes anything like you should.

i've got some girodisc magic pads in the mail now, hopefully i will be able to test them out properly in a few weeks.

i was on motul rbf600 fluid.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 02:46 PM
  #534  
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Originally Posted by MondoBongo
i've had reasonable results with the OE pads. if i drag the brakes too much i lose them, but generally speaking on the north track if i'm braking more or less like i should they do a pretty fair job of holding.

i had a bit of a scare heading in to turn 9 and having the pedal go the whole way with no resistance and no affect on my speed, but that was early on in one of my first sessions where i wasn't exactly using my brakes anything like you should.

i've got some girodisc magic pads in the mail now, hopefully i will be able to test them out properly in a few weeks.

i was on motul rbf600 fluid.
Im using the motul fluid and that is working really nicely. In turn 9 Im coming in with so much speed and I try to dig hard and fast with the breaks but they become non existent in only a few laps. Im looking for a pair solely for the track that will give me the bite even when they are hot. I took my last pair of HP Plus pads down to the metal in only 2 or 3 track days.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 02:54 PM
  #535  
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Originally Posted by Mike01gsr
I'll have to send you a PM looking at buying a good starting kit to detail, will have to run it by you.
Shoot me a pm dude. I'm more than happy to help anyone with anything I can
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 03:23 PM
  #536  
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Originally Posted by JMCZ
Im using the motul fluid and that is working really nicely. In turn 9 Im coming in with so much speed and I try to dig hard and fast with the breaks but they become non existent in only a few laps. Im looking for a pair solely for the track that will give me the bite even when they are hot. I took my last pair of HP Plus pads down to the metal in only 2 or 3 track days.
what rotors are you using and what kind of lap times were you putting down?

also, do you happen to have the air brake cooling guides on your MR? i have them on mine but have never really been able to do a side by side comparison to see how well, if at all, they actually work.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 05:13 PM
  #537  
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Originally Posted by MondoBongo
what rotors are you using and what kind of lap times were you putting down?

also, do you happen to have the air brake cooling guides on your MR? i have them on mine but have never really been able to do a side by side comparison to see how well, if at all, they actually work.

I have a set of Brembo slotted rotors. I have the little plastic ones that came with it. But the ones with the tubing, no. Nt too sure my lap time. And I never got timed there.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 05:50 PM
  #538  
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Originally Posted by JMCZ
I have a set of Brembo slotted rotors. I have the little plastic ones that came with it. But the ones with the tubing, no. Nt too sure my lap time. And I never got timed there.

i have the same little plastic OE scoops and i have just always been skepticle of their function. anecdotally i've heard they have an effect, but feel like it would be minimal. anyways, completely off topic....

i'm interested to see how these magic pads hold up.

one nice thing i was experiencing on the track is that through the last couple turns the brakes would start to fade out just a bit, but the front straight seemed to give them enough cool down time to reset them to an acceptable level.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 06:16 PM
  #539  
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This line of conversation is relevant to my interests. I'm going to be out at Beaver Run this Sat. Running the Hawk HPS pads. Last season, they seemed to be good for about a session and a half. Towards the end of the 2nd session, they seemed to start getting a bit sloppy on braking. The only problem last season, I was running a someone crappy tire, so with brand new tires, I hope to see how it performs.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 07:26 PM
  #540  
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The real issue with brake pads isn't allways the level of friction it provides but the fact that they are being used outside their intended temp range (cooking them) If you can keep a street pad like the HPS or HP+ cool with ducting you might be OK. Another thing that will effect brake fade is the tires. If you have nt01's your going to introduce much more heat into the braking system than you would using some walmart buy 3 get one free tires.

HPS/+ pads are HORRIBLE in my experience on the track and i've actually had minor fade issues on the VIII with them on some "spirited" back roads. Only thing i've been successful with on the track so far that isn't an insane change every race pad is EBC Yellow stuff's which work great on the street too (still need 400+ temps really) and have, imo, great life!

Last edited by 2LOFD3ATH; Mar 31, 2010 at 07:35 PM.
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