Local Pittsburgh meet part deux
I hope. Only ran a 12.8 when I was making 295whp on that dyno, but that was with my old garbage 6spd. My shifting has improved ALOT with the 5spd and I think I've got a chance as long as I don't bog the launch.
Brant I was thinking tb seals too as a possibility. Hope you figure it out dude. Worst case scenario, you get pissed and on a Saturday off work, you re-route all the plumbing with new stuff and replace all vac lines.
Also check to make sure your wg is functioning properly. External wastegates like to stay slightly open sometimes and wreak havok
Also check to make sure your wg is functioning properly. External wastegates like to stay slightly open sometimes and wreak havok
Man I'm slowly getting to that point right now. I'm getting sick right now. I've been to bLowes and Home Cheapo and do you think they have a 3" Flat PVC Cap? NOOOOOOOOoOOOOOOoooOOOoo. bLowes only had curved 3" caps. Home Cheapo had a 4" Flat cap, but not a 3" flat cap. So much for the $5 boost leak tester. hahaAs to the TB seals, it was upgraded with Buschur's 65mm TB, so they did all that in Feb. Again, I'm sure it could be bad, but seems odd that it would go in under a month.
At this point, it might have been faster to construct a device that I could stand on and have someone drive down the road at WOT while I checked for leaks.
Last edited by metalsaber; Apr 15, 2010 at 11:16 AM.
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Well with my original tester and cheap tire pump, it found the major leak on the coupler on the FMIC outlet. So it was enough pressure to get that far but was only throwing around 5psi of air through. Might not have been enough to push further into the system.
Hopefully get a cap today to put my compressor tip into. Hopefully then I can get some more air into the system. One thing Mike found was that a part of the UICP behind the air Intake cone where it couples together was bent on the backside. I don't know how long it was like that or how it happened. I "hope" it isn't the problem area. The bent area isn't inside of the coupler.
I should add that at least 2 of the couplers are brand new since Mike changed one and I changed one. So there aren't many couplers left that could be giving me issues...assuming it isn't a vacuum line.
Hopefully get a cap today to put my compressor tip into. Hopefully then I can get some more air into the system. One thing Mike found was that a part of the UICP behind the air Intake cone where it couples together was bent on the backside. I don't know how long it was like that or how it happened. I "hope" it isn't the problem area. The bent area isn't inside of the coupler.
I should add that at least 2 of the couplers are brand new since Mike changed one and I changed one. So there aren't many couplers left that could be giving me issues...assuming it isn't a vacuum line.
Man I'm slowly getting to that point right now. I'm getting sick right now. I've been to bLowes and Home Cheapo and do you think they have a 3" Flat PVC Cap? NOOOOOOOOoOOOOOOoooOOOoo. bLowes only had curved 3" caps. Home Cheapo had a 4" Flat cap, but not a 3" flat cap. So much for the $5 boost leak tester. hahaAs to the TB seals, it was upgraded with Buschur's 65mm TB, so they did all that in Feb. Again, I'm sure it could be bad, but seems odd that it would go in under a month.
At this point, it might have been faster to construct a device that I could stand on and have someone drive down the road at WOT while I checked for leaks.
If you want I can take a picture of my setup so u can see......
If they replaced the seals then its fine......its more than likely your shotty choice of clamping - order all new clamps and dew it right.
Last edited by travman; Apr 15, 2010 at 12:50 PM.
You guys ARE reading pressures. So that would HAVE to mean it is making it all the way through the system. If it werent the gauge would read 5 psi then drop as soon as you shut off the air. Pressure of any kind would only be showing on the gauge if it made it all the way through. Think about it, its pressure reading in psi (ponds per sq in). That air is pushing against every inch inside of that closed system with 5 lbs of force. If you didnt then you would be reading 0 or very close to it. If you could only read 5psi max then that would mean that your leak was so massive you couldnt put the air in any faster than it was coming out at that point. I guess the pressure reading would be a good indication of how badly you were leaking too.
Is anyone running the Buschur Manual Boost Controller? If so, see picture below. See the hole that is on the parallel lines. Is that supposed to vent air? Because when I did another test with more air, that is the only place venting air and quite a bit actually. If it's not supposed to, then that would be a problem, otherwise, there is still another air leak.
Yes Brant, I have the same one and that hole does vent air. Me and dan have had nothing but problems with ours.
You remember when u followed me up to buschurs for the shootout and I kept hitting fuel cut and having to pull over? Ya mbc issues. If the spring and pill aren't seated properly, the mbc will either stay closed and operate on wg spring, or in my case stay all the way open prohibiting the wg from working, hitting 38psi and slam your engine with fuel cut
You remember when u followed me up to buschurs for the shootout and I kept hitting fuel cut and having to pull over? Ya mbc issues. If the spring and pill aren't seated properly, the mbc will either stay closed and operate on wg spring, or in my case stay all the way open prohibiting the wg from working, hitting 38psi and slam your engine with fuel cut
Yes Brant, I have the same one and that hole does vent air. Me and dan have had nothing but problems with ours.
You remember when u followed me up to buschurs for the shootout and I kept hitting fuel cut and having to pull over? Ya mbc issues. If the spring and pill aren't seated properly, the mbc will either stay closed and operate on wg spring, or in my case stay all the way open prohibiting the wg from working, hitting 38psi and slam your engine with fuel cut
You remember when u followed me up to buschurs for the shootout and I kept hitting fuel cut and having to pull over? Ya mbc issues. If the spring and pill aren't seated properly, the mbc will either stay closed and operate on wg spring, or in my case stay all the way open prohibiting the wg from working, hitting 38psi and slam your engine with fuel cut
So then this could be my problem? If so, should I just get a Hallman MBC and be done with it? Obviously enough air is getting to that point and blow quite a bit out.
Why wouldn't you just stick with the tried and true Hallman Pro MBC? The price difference can't be too much, and the only issue I have ever heard with those is sometimes the ball and gasket need lubed and cleaned.
Well I got it put on my car when I had it done at Buschurs. Didn't really give it much thought at the time.
Yeah. I am considering taking the car up to them for the tune when it gets done, but I really want to stick to the ECU boost. David said he isn't confident in the ECU options that are out there now (no idea why) and would just want to tune it on the Hallman. They also have some weird sort of Electronic/Manual boost controller that has a dual switch to change from one boost to another up there. Looks massive, with stainless lines and twin solenoid controls, but for the asking price ~400 I would much rather just go with someone who will really nail the ECU boost down for me.
Brant, first measure how many lines out your mbc is screwed for reference so you know where to reset the boost controller once your done messing with it. take the mbc off The vac line and first check the o-ring, it may be leaking. Keep the o ring lubed by the way if you intend to use it more.
Unscrew the boost controller but be careful as the spring will launch the pill if you're not careful. Do a physical inspection, then Place the pill and spring back in the controller and slowly screw the pieces back together making sure the spring doesn't kink. My spring kinked and kept the pill from seating. Blow through the inlet side as you screw the mbc tighter to make sure it's slowing down the air as you screw it in.
Rule of thumb for buschurs mbc: turn left for less (boost that is)
Unscrew the boost controller but be careful as the spring will launch the pill if you're not careful. Do a physical inspection, then Place the pill and spring back in the controller and slowly screw the pieces back together making sure the spring doesn't kink. My spring kinked and kept the pill from seating. Blow through the inlet side as you screw the mbc tighter to make sure it's slowing down the air as you screw it in.
Rule of thumb for buschurs mbc: turn left for less (boost that is)