[quote=metalsaber;8202038]Maybe it's me, but finding something close to 84mm for the FP Black seems like a challenge.


Both types of clamps.[/quote]

If I may make a suggestion....spend the $$ and order some Constant Torque worm gear clamps. The heat/cool cycles that the turbo system goes through are very extreme. CT clamps are made of all SST [304] inc the bolt, can not be over tightened, won't cut or extrude the hose or coupler, and best of all they are designed to self adjust with the heat/cool cycle so no loss of clamping force. They are avail. @ mcmastercarr.com and you will generally have them the day after you order.

I had problem boost leaks with my X last year after switching to the Samco hoses, and my research led me to these clamps, so far they have done the trick. Hope this helps brah.

 

Welcome

 

Let me make a suggestion. Use silicon anywhere you can. It will stop all the pesky little leaks. Might look alittle messy but it works!

 

Will do. I hadn't any problems now for awhile. Gotta get this tester fixed first so I can figure out where the leak is. It has to be a substantial one since it takes so long to build full boost. Gonna head to Lowes during lunch.

 

Do yourself a favor and order t-bolt clamps - they are inexpensive and great security, I have never had a leak issue I couldn't fix by tightening the clamp a tick more....

I would say poor clamp choices are giving you a big headache here..

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...77c3b3d2d53993

These are nice t-bolts that are very inexpensive....and work well, I have them on my car currently.

 

ever replace your TB shaft seals?

 

Ah the world of forced induction... where you spend more time working on it than you do driving it...

Cars been running spectacular for the past week, but yesterday I get on it and peak at 15psi.... Turns out just to be a leaky boost reference line.

A couple questions on the boost leak tester:

1) How do you stop air from going through the engine? I was too lazy to check the marks to find TDC so I hooked my tester up to the compressor (regulated at 25 psi) and began cranking it over by hand. It never stopped flowing into the engine. Could this be due to cam overlap?

2) Is a slight leak through the BOV to be expected? (E9 BOV)

 

was your boost gauge building pressure? I have never really had to mess with the motor at tdc to do a leak test, it always seemed to work.

it is expected depending where your leak testing it to (they are known to start leaking at like 23-25 psi? if it is leaking around your target boost then crush the top a little in a vise (its simple).

 

All was recently done (Feb) at Buschurs, so I wouldn't think it would be it, but you never know.

 

Well with my original tester and cheap tire pump, it found the major leak on the coupler on the FMIC outlet. So it was enough pressure to get that far but was only throwing around 5psi of air through. Might not have been enough to push further into the system.

Hopefully get a cap today to put my compressor tip into. Hopefully then I can get some more air into the system. One thing Mike found was that a part of the UICP behind the air Intake cone where it couples together was bent on the backside. I don't know how long it was like that or how it happened. I "hope" it isn't the problem area. The bent area isn't inside of the coupler.


I should add that at least 2 of the couplers are brand new since Mike changed one and I changed one. So there aren't many couplers left that could be giving me issues...assuming it isn't a vacuum line.

 

i test mine to 30 psi usually......5 psi was enough to find that big leak but not enough to charge the whole system and find multiple leaks.

 

Brant I was thinking tb seals too as a possibility. Hope you figure it out dude. Worst case scenario, you get pissed and on a Saturday off work, you re-route all the plumbing with new stuff and replace all vac lines.

Also check to make sure your wg is functioning properly. External wastegates like to stay slightly open sometimes and wreak havok

 

23-25 is about where it seems to leak, I guess I will need to crush it.

Well, then I must now have and have always had a massive leak in mine. I have checked it with the same results in the past only I came at it with a different approach. I assumed it would never stop flowing so I pressurized it enough to hold peak boost on my gauge then looked for leaks.

This sounds like a continual flow that is running through the intake. I need to do some research I guess to find out what else I may need to block off. I did the PCVs and the BOV hose. What about the vacuum lines on the TB or the EGR? Do I need to block anything off there?

 

Try NAPA, they had some pretty big T-bolt clamps

 

I don't block anything? The only part I remove from the car is the inlet hose for the intake....and prop the tb open by resting something heavy on the gas pedal or have someone hold it open if i have help.

I cap the compressor housing and I "T" into the bov line with another line I have a schrader valve attached to the end and then just pressurize the system, rinse and repeat.

The line I have is long enough I go back along the car and pressurize while watching my boost gauge climb.....reason i don't do the valve on the cap is the last place i want my face is near a cap that is held on by a clamp with 30 psi behind it.....I have had it pop off and its like a gun going off and the cap goes flying - usually I stick a piece of wood between the cap and the frame rail to keep it from flying.

I have been doing leak tests like this for 10+ years now - all the way back to my turbo honda days....learned it from my dsm friends, some of the ways i see people doing it on evom makes me wanna face palm.