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Once you get around to upping the kW aka torque and get nervous about the tcase there's a ginormous brace that Jon TRE assembled on several tcases for drag cars, it's on his facebook.
After a 3rd unanswered email with TRE, I gave up. I was pretty bummed about their non-existant customer service. I really wanted their 3.73 final drive in my gearbox.
The tcase brace is only a DSM part. The Evo stuff stays together with the 10mm bolt upgrade, and proper gear setup that takes into account how the case flexes.
Originally Posted by electron bom
After a 3rd unanswered email with TRE, I gave up. I was pretty bummed about their non-existant customer service. I really wanted their 3.73 final drive in my gearbox.
Gotta try a little harder with Jon. It's him and his apprentice in the shop, and that's it. And on top of he drivetrain work he does, he also has a CNC business. Pretty busy guys. If you are friends with on Facebook (Jon Ripple), you'll often see him posting work on the weekends. I've had good luck getting simple questions answered in FB messenger. Phone calls are usually best with Jon. But even then, sometime it takes a few tries to get him lol
Gotta try a little harder with Jon. It's him and his apprentice in the shop, and that's it. And on top of he drivetrain work he does, he also has a CNC business. Pretty busy guys. If you are friends with on Facebook (Jon Ripple), you'll often see him posting work on the weekends. I've had good luck getting simple questions answered in FB messenger. Phone calls are usually best with Jon. But even then, sometime it takes a few tries to get him lol
There is now a 3rd guy! If I remember correctly his name is Erik.
Bleeding the QM hydraulic TOB has been interesting. I have been previously unable to eliminate all air bubbles. I installed a speed bleeder thinking that would remediate the problem, but it didn't. All lines and fittings were secure, no issues that I could see. So, I had to go into full blown diagnostic mode. I dropped the bleeder line into a test tube full of fluid. I then observed air bubbles coming from the line termination fitting itself With this new information, I was able to get some pedal pressure. Whether the leak still exists when the bleeder valve is torqued closed remains to be seen.
Cluster After much deliberation, I decided it would appropriate to fabricate a custom instrument cluster.
I really wanted to keep the OEM cluster to maintain the 'Evo feel' of the interior. However, fabricating a bracket for a trigger wheel, sensor, etc. and affixing it to my motor wasn't something I was interested in undertaking to obtain a tach signal. I decided to purchase a speedhut analog tach (my controller utilizes an analog square wave for motor speed) and cut a custom cluster. This route probably involves just as much design, but better suits my purposes.
Here is the tach I ordered with a matching speedometer and motor temp gauge.
A rough idea of what my cluster will look like, based on OEM cluster dimensions and actual gauge diameters.
How will the twin motor setup look like ? Is it a inline/tandem setup or twin side by side ? Perhaps your looking to make two independent gear-less setup like the Tesla? One motor driving the front wheels and another motor independently driving the rear wheels..
I calculated the cost of building my own twin motor kit and it ended up only being about $400 cheaper than this really nice piece EVWEST did for an off-road baja buggy. This is what I'm leaning toward at the moment, should do something like 300hp/500tq with my controller.
I calculated the cost of building my own twin motor kit and it ended up only being about $400 cheaper than this really nice piece EVWEST did for an off-road baja buggy. This is what I'm leaning toward at the moment, should do something like 300hp/500tq with my controller.
If you replace your controller , you can potentially make even more HP and TQ ?
So if I understand this correctly, the motors on these EV conversion can essentially can make more than the rated HP and TQ with the right controller , but for a shorter period of time or maybe if you rig something up to not have it over heat?
Also regarding your gauge cluster setup, couldnt you just use the OEM speedometer and customize the rest? If I’m not mistaken the speed sensor is in the transmission. Unless it requires you to use the ECU and doesnt have its own?
If you replace your controller , you can potentially make even more HP and TQ ?
Yes, my controller is maxed out at about 350kW. There are other DC controllers that will handle much more power than that.
Originally Posted by BluEVOIX
So if I understand this correctly, the motors on these EV conversion can essentially can make more than the rated HP and TQ with the right controller , but for a shorter period of time or maybe if you rig something up to not have it over heat?
The manufacturer rates these motors by the amount of electric power they can withstand for 1 hour. They can handle MUCH more than their rated power for shorter intervals.
Originally Posted by BluEVOIX
Also regarding your gauge cluster setup, couldnt you just use the OEM speedometer and customize the rest? If I’m not mistaken the speed sensor is in the transmission. Unless it requires you to use the ECU and doesnt have its own?
Yes, but running OEM and aftermarket gauges in the cluster wouldn't look very clean IMO.
Mar 14, 2017, 07:54 AM
. You gotta be tactical with him but the best is worth the wait usually.
With this new information, I was able to get some pedal pressure. Whether the leak still exists when the bleeder valve is torqued closed remains to be seen. 
