More weight reduction. Plus bleeding brakes and clutch today with SRF.

Ive also called Jon at TRE about 5 times in the past few weeks. 2nd email too lol...

 

He's definitely hard to get a hold of. But after my experience at the two other "big name" Evo drivetrain shops, I won't be using anyone else except TRE going forward.

 

Jon@TRE is an awesome guy. He can be tough to get a hold of so you need to be persistent. I work in sales so harassing someone until they answer is my specialty

But his knowledge and quality of the work speaks for itself. I'd try calling him earlier in the day or later; midday seems to be when he's busy working!

But don't give up. Once you get a hold of him you'll know he's the one you want building your drivetrain parts.

 

Im stoked to talk/work with him. Ive decided TRE too, however long it takes lol

 

Well, brakes and clutch are bled/flushed with SRF. First time bleeding a clutch and it was a snap. The ATE superblue I had in before made the flush easy due to the blue. Used my mityvac 1once and bled the old fashioned way twice. Torqued half shafts and axel nuts, installed coter pins. Wheels on and lugs torqued. Cars good to drive minus corner balance and alignment. I miss the smell of race gas. This is good because i need to take the car to have freon safely removed.

Given my ride height Im slightly disappointed in the control arm being parallel. I am however happy where the wheel is in the fender given max caster settings on plates and bushes. Also my line/wire routing.

More good news, Jon emailed me between now and my last post. Hes gonna call me tomorrow. So I will have a winter project lined up I hope.

1 more thing,.. holy **** racecar. The motor/trans/steering bushings and mounts give a "solid/connected" feel. Lots of vibration etc. Feeling more like a racecar

 

I have an amazing sense of pride right now, could be the 6-8 beers ive drank. 5 day weekend for me haha

 

Control arms flat? You arent nearly low enough! :P

 

Ya im not sure how low to go. Ive got enough spring where maybe I can be a little higher? We'll see once I get corner balanced.

 

Was talking to another guy this week about how low to go on stock uprights and I things around 1.5" lower than stock is a happy place if you can run stiff enough. 2" if you have WL RCK.

Your roll centers still suck, but its a good enough compromise between roll center and CG.

 

Got a "street" alignment. Guy that ran the shop is a VW guy and has a bunch of them.

The alignment is just so I can bed in brakes, and put some heat/load cycles on everything. Then I can recheck some torque specs and inspect everything for any trouble. For example I've also re-bled the brakes and had to tighten up some of the bleeders because of very minor leaking. Brakes are crazy loud for the street... Also put a full tank of 100 octane in. Car still pulling like a freight train which is nice. I will need to remove the heat shield in the driveshaft tunnel because its rattling prob due to engine/trans mounts.

And yes I'm driving on expired tags lol

 

Also I wanted to mention what maybe common knowledge?

For the brake line brackets, I didn't install them as pictured below. I found that if you flip the bracket that came on the Ohlins(sandwiched between the hex bolts), then use Left side OE bracket on the RIGHT side(Now pointing down)you get more clearance between the strut and inner body. I noticed it was a problem with very aggressive camber in the front. The line bracket makes contact with the inner wheel-well.



Here you can see its pointing down

 

Is your track alignment too aggressive to bed pads, etc?

 

Most of the brake pad noise comes from the rear pads.

I run ST47 front and ST43 rear and I drove that setup to the track the last two times and seriously wanted to kill myself by the end of the trips. It's the most annoying sound ever. I'm sure everybody around me wanted to kill me as well. It was fine as long as there wasn't traffic on the highway but as soon as any stop and go happened I wanted to light my ears on fire.

I thought it was the ST47's in the front... I was wrong.

I took out the ST43's in the rear and put in Girodisc SS just for the drive to the track and ALL the noise went away surprisingly.

 

No I don't even have a corner balance yet, rough ride height settings to what the coil overs had out of the box. No alignment besides this since I reassembled everything. So it was all out of wack. The sway bar end links aren't even installed as of this post. I just wanted the car driveable to shake out all the new parts on the street. . Plus now I can drive it to get corner balanced lol Next year I'll get it on the track.

 

I will need some street pads and tires for my other rims for any street duty. But the noise in and of itself is fine at the track. I am a little worried that it'll be distracting though...

Were they still noisy once up to temp at a track?