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right thats my point, 4th gear is the issue, not the overall FD. PAR makes a 1.0 straight cut 4th gear, which when you put it in a gear calculator with otherwise stock ratios shows that it really fixes the issue. plus it is much stronger than stock. the 9 oem is 1.096
on a 9 with 255/40/17 tires and 8k rev limit youd go from 120mph to 132mph for 4th gear
edit: didnt realize how much of a difference there was between the 8 and 9 4th gear...id still vote single gear change over fd tho.
That would be great if my car wasn't a street car. But I use 4th a lot when cruising on the street. I do not want that straight cut gear whine... It's also not a huge change. My car already does 127 in 4th since its an 8.
Originally Posted by razorlab
Yea, unfortunately for me, FD is only option currently for the 10.
Yeah. I wouldn't change the final drive since you're not running a stroker motor. But, that built 2.0 with the 5858 should make power to 8500 no problem.
From what I've read the AMS delete has had some failures/unhappy customers but it could have been isolated...
This seems to be the most tried and true solution for weight savings while increasing mounting rigidity. And this is coming from a guy who once swore to never run BR parts. Its not the products I don't like, its the people.
I'm not a fan of the BR people either LOL. I wanted to delete the bar.. but there is so much going on back there.. never seemed like a good idea to me, either.
No photos this time, but I drove up to TRE and dropped off my T/C. Aaron magnafluxed the LSD and ring gear and found no cracks or issues. Its still getting the full TRE treatment but it sounds like I wont have to pony up to replace any parts which is nice. The T/C appears to be in great shape and when I removed it from the car it wasn't making any whine or exhibiting any issues.
Just getting parts and stuff together so I can begin to put it all back in the car.
Good to hear your tcase will only be getting upgrades and you don't need to replace anything. It gets expensive real quick when you have to buy a diff and a gear set...LOL
I looked up TRE's basic rebuild. The only parts I see that get changed are an 8mm to 10mm bolt upgrade? Am I missing something, or are they just not listing the basics?
I looked up TRE's basic rebuild. The only parts I see that get changed are an 8mm to 10mm bolt upgrade? Am I missing something, or are they just not listing the basics?
All seals as well. I don't think he includes bearings because, typically, the bearings are fine. So they are an additional charge. So you're getting teardown/assembly, case machining, bolt upgrade, and new seals. Its a lot of work for that little money. Just his labor rate on the tcase is $250ish I think.
Then you can add in other things like detail and shot peen the gear set and front diff, and it adds 150ish I think. All new bearing are around $200-$250 IIRC, and then his billet access panel with heat sink fins and neodymium magnet is like $80.
The best thing about Jon is he will always do you right, except, yes, he can be hard to reach. But don't be fooled that every shop has a hard time with their lead times. I've used all 3 of the "big name" on the internet Evo drivetrain shops and have had all of them miss deadlines and take longer then expected.
Yeah it all gets love. Bolt upgrade, shot peening, super finishing, glass blasting the case, all new bolts et. Also got an orange billet cover to match the 4th gear cooler on the trans.
And today i got 95% of the sound deadening out. Just a little more on the driveshaft tunnel. Bought way too much dry ice, prob 50lbs. Only needed like 10 or 15 and 1 bottle of alcohol.
