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I dont have tools or time to tear it all down for cleaning and inspection. And if I'm going to go that far Id rather let professionals do it and throw some forged internals in. Plus I want to freshen up the head and put billet S2 in. Going to stay 2.0 with same or close compression stock crank as long as its perfect etc. Plan on a 71hta and just over build for my HP goals of 350-400 whp on e85 but make power to 8k safely. Then I can modulate power depending on what I'm doing with the car.
I've already got all new timing side stuff an will reuse my valve springs retainers etc. Just new seals, valve job, cleaning, and some porting. So its just rotating assembly, cams, complete rebuild/cleaning etc.
A part of me says to just "send it" the way it is though. Its sealed and ready to go in... But how can I not put at least equal effort into the motor considering what I've done to the rest of the drive-train.
Gotcha. There's nothing wrong with the plan. If it were me at this point, I would just want to get them damn thing running. An engine is probably gonna have you sitting on your hands for another 2-3 months waiting on the motor to coma back. Especially since the stock short block will handle your goals just fine.
Yeah but I've got work to do in the mean time. Still have to finish the plumbing/elec for the ACD pump. Clean up some wiring. Winter is coming. So while a year ago when I started this I wanted to get on the road asap, it has cascaded into a full build haha. I also want to get a cage still but its expensive and time consuming.
I dont have tools or time to tear it all down for cleaning and inspection. And if I'm going to go that far Id rather let professionals do it and throw some forged internals in. Plus I want to freshen up the head and put billet S2 in. Going to stay 2.0 with same or close compression stock crank as long as its perfect etc. Plan on a 71hta and just over build for my HP goals of 350-400 whp on e85 but make power to 8k safely. Then I can modulate power depending on what I'm doing with the car.
I've already got all new timing side stuff an will reuse my valve springs retainers etc. Just new seals, valve job, cleaning, and some porting. So its just rotating assembly, cams, complete rebuild/cleaning etc.
A part of me says to just "send it" the way it is though. Its sealed and ready to go in... But how can I not put at least equal effort into the motor considering what I've done to the rest of the drive-train.
Welcome to the "built for 600 whp but tuned to 350 whp" club! I think I had your same thinking when I had Buschur do the internals on my car at 15k miles and the car still running like a top. I wanted to strengthen things just in case, though I also did it in 2009 before everyone realized how stout our stock shortblocks really are. I don't think I necessarily regret it, but beware of overbuilding the engine for a lower power level. You can end up introducing more lag and more tuning headaches as you drift further from stock, even if the build quality is perfect, yet nothing to show for it in performance if you keep the boost low on a smallish turbo.
Drove up to Boostin this morning and dropped off my tall block. Not sure if I should go with a 2.0LR or standard 2.0. Any input would be helpful. They recommended it because described as a better transfer of power to the crank and less piston side loading.
Getting "stage3" head and block combo plus intake manifold porting/port match and GSC Billet S2s.
Anyway also got a (free) tshirt, or the most expensive tshirt on earth. Depending how you look at it haha
Welcome to the "built for 600 whp but tuned to 350 whp" club! I think I had your same thinking when I had Buschur do the internals on my car at 15k miles and the car still running like a top. I wanted to strengthen things just in case, though I also did it in 2009 before everyone realized how stout our stock shortblocks really are. I don't think I necessarily regret it, but beware of overbuilding the engine for a lower power level. You can end up introducing more lag and more tuning headaches as you drift further from stock, even if the build quality is perfect, yet nothing to show for it in performance if you keep the boost low on a smallish turbo.
I hear ya. This feels like the worst bang for buck thing I've done so far. But as I mentioned before, I just feel comfortable knowing the motor is "new" to go along with all the other new stuff I've got in the car.
I also plan to have them tune it and convert to speed density. So TRE is my drivetrain "shop" and boostin will be my motor "shop". I feel I'm in good hands and should have a fairly bullet proof setup once its all said and done. Or at least one can hope...
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Go with standard rod length. No need for a longer rod.
I called them and switched to standard 2.0. This was my gut inclination as well...
I second on standard rod length. Stock RS ratio is 1.7, which is plenty good. You will see less side loading on the piston but you also will have a longer dwell time which means average piston speed will increase.
Like most things in engines, it's a matter of give and take. What you're using the engine for should guide you on making decisions. IMO for a car that sees the street and light to moderate track duty, stock RS ratio is a very good balance. For something that is pretty much only a track car, I'd want to get it higher. Keep in mind, if you stroke it you'll want to lengthen the rod to try and stay as close to that 1.7 ratio as possible.
Looking forward to see how it turns out for you. I'd love to see photos of their headwork and manifold porting.
I second on standard rod length. Stock RS ratio is 1.7, which is plenty good. You will see less side loading on the piston but you also will have a longer dwell time which means average piston speed will increase.
Like most things in engines, it's a matter of give and take. What you're using the engine for should guide you on making decisions. IMO for a car that sees the street and light to moderate track duty, stock RS ratio is a very good balance. For something that is pretty much only a track car, I'd want to get it higher. Keep in mind, if you stroke it you'll want to lengthen the rod to try and stay as close to that 1.7 ratio as possible.
Looking forward to see how it turns out for you. I'd love to see photos of their headwork and manifold porting.
I'll def get as many photos as I can along the process. Will see how the original stuff looks too which I am interested in.
I am also looking forward to seeing your car all together. Our cars are almost twins
