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The Splash seems to be a good piece. I'm not sure if I'll need to do a quick release once I get a cage. For now with the tilt column, its easy enough to get in and out. The wheel is just barly closer to my body. Can still reach the light/wiper controls with my finger while holding the wheel. I was worried with the minor dish of the wheel it'd be too close to the driver.
I powered up the harness last night and all my lights/blinkers/front wipers still work. So that makes me happy. Sure hope I'm not going to chase electrical gremlins once I have the motor in and everything hooked up. Fingers crossed...
Back to radiator fans... I ordered a SPAL 13in Puller Low Profile 12V Electric Fan (SPAL-30100398). Had a hard time deciding weighing CFM, weight, and depth.
This one flows a little over 1k CFM, is only about 2" thick, and weighs about 2.5lbs (1.1 kg).
I was originally thinking of going with PN: S2044 which is about 1700 CFM but according to the spec sheet its almost 6" thick at its deepest, and weights about 6lbs.
Here is the weight of the stock fans, and just the stock puller fan:
All of these new radiators look really thin and light to me. My car has a 57mm PWR core from Nils old Evo. It’s probably way overkill and adding excess weight (just like my 4” Buschur FMIC), but it’s one less thing to worry about.
Still waiting on the motor to get done. Boostin was away for the WCF Import Vs Domestic races.
Mean time I had my throttle body cleaned and sealed with milspec seals. Also want to do a GM IAT/MAT sensor for SD. I'm also thinking of a grimspeed 3port boost solenoid and to get away from my Greddy Profec Spec2 EBC.
Complicates things as I already deleted the MAF/OE Boost solenoid wiring. DOH
I had my car tuned on SD by Tom at TSComp tuning and I do not have an IAT sensor. He utilizes a fuel temperature sensor that is in place from the factory to infer the temperature. If you have already deleted the MAF wiring, this may be something you want to look in to. I have not run into any issues having my car tuned this way over the last three years.
From what I understand, MAT is a better source for the temperature input with higher accuracy and dynamics given its literally right before the air enters the head. What I dont know is if it makes tuning easier or harder, and how it will affect driving in varying conditions/ambient temperatures. As opposed to fuel temp which would not accuratly reflect heat soak in the engine and rising temps due to long duration WOT.
Woulndt it just be a different reference than the fuel temp as far as the ECU is concerned? I asked Boostin to add the hole and tap it for 3/8 NPT. Luckily I have a spot already on the manfild from the factory. I think earlier VIIIs don't have that spot. Worst case I just order an Al plug in that size from Jegs or something.
