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Glad youre going to install them and no worries totally understand where you're coming from not wanting to let them go seperately was just throwing it out there.
Keep up the good work you're getting closer and closer!
Also, PM in order, curious what you got kicking around lol!
Put a little more of the turbo together today. Had to clearance the WG bracket a little as it was interfering with the compressor housing. Also cut off a mount for a coolant line since the FP cover doesnt have a screw hole for it.
I've got a MAP filtered oil feed line which I think connects to the oil filter housing. Not sure if I should use that or the stock feed line from the head for this turbo?
I also need to get some good high temp anti-seeze before I torque the O2 to the turbine housing permanently.
I'm guessing the turbo is still a journal bearing? Would probably be a good idea to move the feed to the oil filter housing. Journal bearings don't handle starvation as well as ball bearings can.
Also, do you have any pics of where the actuator is hitting the turbo? I was talking to Turbosmart this past weekend about some of their products and I've debated about changing out the IWG actuator in case I ever want to crank up my boost controller. What spring did you go with?
Last edited by Ayoustin; Dec 13, 2017 at 01:42 PM.
The 71hta uses the OEM CHRA, which is designed to be fed from the head. As long as the oil line being used isn't more restrictive than stock, it can be fed from the head just fine.
If you want a stiffer wastage, FP offers 18psi and 25psi gates.
I too was wondering about the oil feed. What confused me is the feed at the head seems to be less shall we call it reliable relative to the OFH. But it also seems like FP recommends their line for the BB turbos which should in theory be less pesky when it comes to oil pressure unlike a JB turbo where the bearings are essentially floating in oil. Just seems counter intuitive.
My JB BBK Full has been going strong for years now getting its oil from the head but wasnt sure if I should be adding an oil feed line to my never ending spreadsheet of parts.
As long as you dont have a restrictor in the line, I don't see how it would be an issue either. But is it better to source the oil from the housing or head and I thought the answer was the OFH. But if sourcing from the head is fine then I see no reason to change it.
Also, do you have any pics of where the actuator is hitting the turbo? I was talking to Turbosmart this past weekend about some of their products and I've debated about changing out the IWG actuator in case I ever want to crank up my boost controller. What spring did you go with?
I've got the 22psi WGA. Might be a bit much when I have 25/26psi peak in mind. Then again 22psi on E85 is an OK failsafe I think.
The section of the bracket that is closest to the flange casting on the compressor housing was touching a little. Just ground it down with my bench grinder and dremel.
I also got the O2/turbo installed. Used a healthy amount of 2k degree copper anti-seize. I used the stock oil feed line in for now. Still have to do the return line but thats no big deal since I'm using the OEM one. And like a total noob I didnt install both washers on the manifold/turbo bolts so I've gotta fix that.
Put more crap on the car. Some just to sort of test fit and see how it'll piece together. I think I'll need to shave back the passenger side lower rad support a little bit so it clears the lower IC pipe better. Or cut off the supports and weld them back closer so the radiator is a tighter/closer fit to the nose. There is a bit of space for air to flow around the rad since the condenser is removed.
Also need to get some black couplers for the inter-cooler since the blue the blitz came with just wont do. Put on Dallas's/SSB tophats which are beautiful. The bling at this point is blinding I just want to sit in my garage and stare at it...
The Radiator dry is about 11lbs just for posterity...
The build your doing is bad ***, almost gonna be sad to see it ever get dirty.
I was just saying this the other night while chatting with him lol.
Based off the pic you posted I think you've got enough clearance on the lower pipe. It shouldn't shift much at all. You could also shorten the coupler off the discharge to pull it back a bit if needed.
I never thought about it but I don't have my condensor either, I need to check those gaps on the side of the radiator.
I'm seriously pumped about 201$ season and track days!
I was just saying this the other night while chatting with him lol.
Based off the pic you posted I think you've got enough clearance on the lower pipe. It shouldn't shift much at all. You could also shorten the coupler off the discharge to pull it back a bit if needed.
I never thought about it but I don't have my condensor either, I need to check those gaps on the side of the radiator.
I'm seriously pumped about 201$ season and track days!
Nice to meet you in person buddy. And looking forward to putting eyes on your car too. Hope your plans for the oil pan work out
Dec 12, 2017, 02:37 PM
