I am glad I found this thread. I WAS highly into getting an evo, but since I am a little worried about getting one now. If I do get one, I will talk to the service manager BEFORE purchasing it to find out what is acceptable as far as mods, and get it in writing.

edit: nice eclipse minus the stickers and vinyl on it.

 

I wouldn't bother. You pay to play when you mod and anybody who pretends to be shocked when their modded Evo was denied a warranty claim wasn't being honest with themselves in the 1st place. Mitsubishi isn't our pit crew.

 

its ridiculous that mitsubishi would do that, but i can see it happening. I dont see why they void the warranty after an ECU flash...at least thats what they tell me.

 

every evo owner should wear that shirt when going to the mitsubishi service dept.

 

Because people are stupid enough to try and tune their car when they aren't capable of changing their own oil.

 

What about EGT gauges since they involve tapping the exhaust manifold? I searched for this and it seems like some say it will, which i would assume, but has anyone had problems with egt gauges?

 

My dealer as of right now is replacing my 1-2 and 5-reverse syncros under warrantee.

Right now my question is this...the car is taken apart and the service dept. is recommending I replace the clutch and flywheel while it is apart (no additional labor cost. Essentially I am paying only for parts)

There are hotspots, etc. on the flywheel but the clutch, in the service manager's words is "not the worst I've seen".

the dilemma is If I give them an aftermarket clutch/pressure plate/flywheel to install, I immediately lose all warrantee on the syncro work that they have just done.

I have 28,000 mi. on the stock clutch and am wondering wether I should replace the pressure plate/flywheel/TOB, OR put the old parts back in, OR a combination of the two (just the pressure plate and cover and keep the old flywheel OR vice versa) They will NOT resurface the flywheel.

Sorry for the long post, But I have to make my decision by tomorrow AM.

Prices quoted for the parts are 280-something for the flywheel and 350 for the rest of it minus the throw-out bearing.

Of course the guy may be trying to sell me, but they have been great to me and the fact that the car is taken apart does have some merit.

Any input is appreciated.

Tom

Any issue with chatter etc. w/ new clutch and old flywheel with hotspots?

Am going down tomorrow to look at the pieces and talk to the technician directly.

 

28000 is a lot of miles on a stock clutch but tell them to send the the fly wheel out to get it resurfaced or see if they will let you take it in to a certified shop to do so

 

I got 48K miles on my stock clutch because I know how to drive a stick and didn't launch the **** out of it all the time (not saying you don't or did)

The flywheel will show hotspots but as long as the run-out is good (have the tech check it with a caliper). If money is an issue and your clutch material is within specs I'd say keep the original clutch.

However, if you can afford an aftermarket clutch/flywheel I would go ahead and replace it now. That will save you 700-1000 in labor if you decide to replace it later. And after the TSB I don't think I've heard of anyone with actual transmission problems unless they don't know how to drive or they abuse it. It's a pretty stout trans, IMHO I'd go aftermarket now.

BTW, I had my Exedy Twin HD put in during my 3rd gear TSB at 48K miles and it only cost me $70 for labor.

 

The service rep. mentioned that it didn't look to shabby at all (clutch) That is a good idea to have the tech to check the run-out on the flywheel. Thank you. The service advisor said he could not find specs that "Provided for the turning/resurfacing of the flywheel, Therefore We cannot have that done and install it in your car and keep your warrantee intact" or something to that effect.

So...

Again, the clutch is still in good shape and was not slipping at all when I brought the car in. I too know how to drive a standard transmission

One more question...What was the #rd gear TSB about? Also for an '03?

Thanks again Gentlemen

Any other recommendations?

Tom

 

The 3rd gear syncro was known to cause harsh engagments in the 2003/2004 models. Probly the same thing you were having. There are two TSB's one for 3rd and one for 5th.

Also if you have the time and a machine shop available you can have your flywheel magnafluxed to check for stress cracks. If it checks out and the run-out is good (no warping) then feel free to have them reinstall it.

 

Very cool to know. Mine was actually popping out of 5th and first gear. I will ask them about the 3rd TSB as well. I will have to call around a bit tomorrow to see if there are any machine shops that have that capability around here.

So is tha warping what could cause Clutch chatter if I re-use the original flywheel? I was wodering if it was like if you were to run brake pads past the friction material and down to the metal backing plate and then try to put new brake pads on the scored/warped rotor...

Thanks again

Tom

 

since they are doing the tranny, might as well put a new clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and flywheel(if worn out).

 

If it's warped I don't know if you'd hear chatter but it would probly skip/slip/squeal or any other odd number of things.

If the flywheel surface was scored like you asked you'd definitely notice it. The run-out check will tell you if it's warped. There is a spec that the mitsu tech should be able to find to know if it's in tolerance.

 

Well I decided to check my oil today and when I had the hood popped I noticed the spark plug cover was cracked by both screws on the right hand side. I bought this car brand new and haven't touched it. The only thing that's been done under the hood has been oil changes and installing a boost sensor, so the cover should have never been touched and I know I've never touched it. It's a little thing, but it's still enough to annoy me.