How To: Modding your Evo ~$100 at a time!
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 8,970
Likes: 17
From: Prosper, TX
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-results.html link added to the first post.
buschur O2 housing
I'm not sure about the part in the O2 housing section, where it says "Buschur (ceramic coated megan)"? I was under the impression that the Buschur SS O2 housing, which is ceramic coated, was an EBAY O2 housing. Any1 else no about this? Please chime in!
Brought to you by the MitsuStyle admins:
http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/sho...841#post264841
So, you have a shiny new Evo 8/9. You have one of the best econo-boxes gone wrong ever crafted, and after a while you want to open up the potential the thing has to offer. Like everyone else, you don't have the money for it, or don't know what to do first. Before I go any further, remember: no modification or go-fast part should *ever* trump maintenance. Ever.
Everyone can save up $100. If you can't, then you should not own an Evo. So, here I present to you the compilation of fun little mods that can be done for *about* $100 at a time. It's how we built our Evolutions and its how you can build yours too
Don't be to picky on the order, if you see something you like further on down the line, bump it up, these mods mostly act independently, but also cumulatively with each other. We haven't arranged these in order of importance but rather tried to group them with other related mods.
Free stuff first!
-Clutch pill delete: takes 20 minutes and your stock clutch will last longer and be more precise!
Ecu Hacking: open source (free!) tools are available for modding/patching the stock evo ecu with lots of fun add ons. I will list a few here, but a LOT of time can be devoted to this.
-tephra: NLTS, map switching, knock CEL, valet mode, immobilizer, rear o2 delete, etc. Tephra is an australian dude that has patched *most* of the stock roms with all of these options that he hacked himself. Brilliant dude.
-Intake air temp logging via GM IAT (mrfred)
-Rear o2 delete (skip that o2 fouler!) (pd1)
-Wideband o2 logging (replaces rear o2 sensor, use Innovate LC-1 for ~$180) (mrfred)
-Log boost via evo X map sensor (mrfred)
-direct boost control via evo x map sensor (mrfred)
To do all of the above, you need:
-Tactrix cable: $100, worth every penny. Teach yourself to tune. Start by just logging your car and see what happens!
-Laptop
-EvoScan: use this for logging. $25
Dyno Tune: A very valuable "mod" to get. A professional tune will allow you to achieve the most out of your car in terms of reliable power output and overall running condition. A street tune can be very good, but nothing beats a real dyno-tune. Shane @ DB Performance is the undisputed local tuning king. Plan on your tune costing anywhere from $250-500 depending on your mods and your cars condition, but rest assured its worth every penny.
Exhaust:
First off, don't mess around with a high flow cat; just get a testpipe so you make more power and spend less money.
-Ebay Exhaust: ~$300+ shipped
-Buschur (lightest systems available, ask nicely for a testpipe instead of a HFC)
Bullet Muffler
Magnaflow "Quiet" Muffler
-AMS (high quality stuff, resonated testpipe $150 extra) Turboback with testpipe
-MAP o2 eliminator downpipe
-Megan Turboback with resonated testpipe
-Perrin Catback Only $380!
Boost gauge (yes you need one):
-Autometer (~$40 from summitracing.com)
-Prosport (MAPerformance, 'Style sponsor) for around $40
Boost control:
Manual Boost Controllers (cheap, effective, and best of all they work with no hassle!):
-Joe P XZ
-Hallman ES
-DB Performance
-Skip the ebay ones here, they are usually sub-par.
ECU Controlled Boost:
-option #1 (warranty friendly):#65 pill ($10-30 in parts- pills available pre-drilled here)
-option #2: Wire in GM BCS (~$45 in parts, this is what we're using)
If you go the GMBCS route pick up an evo X map sensor for ~$150 to save yourself the hassle of load-based and to just do it right the first time. Use this with mrfred's direct boost control mod for optimal ecu-controlled boost.
Evo8's set PEAK boost to 21psi (untuned) or 23psi (tuned)
Evo9's set PEAK boost to 22psi (untuned) or 24psi (tuned)
Intake:
This should help decide which intake to purchase for your car: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-results.html
-Vibrant Air Filter kit $38.99 (includes MAF adaptor)
-Perrin Air filter $52 for filter or $72 for filter and MAF adapter
-Perrin Complete Intake Kit $265
-Buschur Intake kit $260
-ETS $189 (low price and genuine K&N air filter!)
Intercooler pipes:
UICP: No measurable gains, mainly for looks and shorter route piping.
LICP: 5-12whp
-Nisei: $150+ (nice quality, mounting bracket)
-ETS LP2: $174+ (shown to make additional power compared to other designs)
-AMS: $303 (mounting bracket, lowest power gains)
O2 housing + port turbine housing:
-Megan o2 housing: ~$100, consistent quality.
-Buschur (ceramic coated megan): $200, keep those underhood temps down!)
-ebay: $60 or so, but you're taking your chances at what you get.
Port the little lip restricting flow out of the wastegate passage, and while you have it out, buy $5 worth of bits at home depot and gasket match the inlets of your turbine housing.
ported exhaust manifold:
-Buschur: $100 or $200 w/ ceramic coating + core.
-PPI: $65+ core
-DIY: lots of work, but it can be done. Gasket match outlets, port match inlets.
BOV: VIII guys only
-IX BOV: used for around $80, new for $140(?), the IX bov is the MOST DRIVABLE valve out there, and will hold 28+psi no problem. Do NOT waste your money and time on anything else or you will cry.
Wideband: Innovate LC-1 or PLX for cheap, compatible with ECU logging (gauges/displays cost extra)
Injectors: more fuel! Sell your stockers for $100+ on eBay to offset the cost!
-FIC (<$300): 850's & 1050's have been used by us, good idle and drivability.
Fuel Pump: In your first round of mods, do this. Yes it is way worth it. Your stock injectors are good for 300+whp with this mod! Stock VIII fuel pump will only do about 260whp (Dyno Dynamics) but the IX can flow slightly more.
Walbro 255HP: ~$70 at MAP!
E85: Less mileage, less consistency, requires frequent retuning for optimal power, but lots more power potential! 40+whp gains.
IX turbo: +10-15whp for VIII guys. Sell your stock turbo to offset the cost of this.
$350-550, depending on who/what/where. I ended up selling my stock VIII turbo w/ 10.5 hotside for $300 making this a real bargain!
Crankcase Vents:
-MAP Crankcase Vacuum Kit: $45 Lots of benefits, check them out!
Catch-Can:
-eBay: ~$25+ shipped
http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/sho...841#post264841
So, you have a shiny new Evo 8/9. You have one of the best econo-boxes gone wrong ever crafted, and after a while you want to open up the potential the thing has to offer. Like everyone else, you don't have the money for it, or don't know what to do first. Before I go any further, remember: no modification or go-fast part should *ever* trump maintenance. Ever.
Everyone can save up $100. If you can't, then you should not own an Evo. So, here I present to you the compilation of fun little mods that can be done for *about* $100 at a time. It's how we built our Evolutions and its how you can build yours too
Don't be to picky on the order, if you see something you like further on down the line, bump it up, these mods mostly act independently, but also cumulatively with each other. We haven't arranged these in order of importance but rather tried to group them with other related mods.
Free stuff first!
-Clutch pill delete: takes 20 minutes and your stock clutch will last longer and be more precise!
Ecu Hacking: open source (free!) tools are available for modding/patching the stock evo ecu with lots of fun add ons. I will list a few here, but a LOT of time can be devoted to this.
-tephra: NLTS, map switching, knock CEL, valet mode, immobilizer, rear o2 delete, etc. Tephra is an australian dude that has patched *most* of the stock roms with all of these options that he hacked himself. Brilliant dude.
-Intake air temp logging via GM IAT (mrfred)
-Rear o2 delete (skip that o2 fouler!) (pd1)
-Wideband o2 logging (replaces rear o2 sensor, use Innovate LC-1 for ~$180) (mrfred)
-Log boost via evo X map sensor (mrfred)
-direct boost control via evo x map sensor (mrfred)
To do all of the above, you need:
-Tactrix cable: $100, worth every penny. Teach yourself to tune. Start by just logging your car and see what happens!
-Laptop
-EvoScan: use this for logging. $25
Dyno Tune: A very valuable "mod" to get. A professional tune will allow you to achieve the most out of your car in terms of reliable power output and overall running condition. A street tune can be very good, but nothing beats a real dyno-tune. Shane @ DB Performance is the undisputed local tuning king. Plan on your tune costing anywhere from $250-500 depending on your mods and your cars condition, but rest assured its worth every penny.
Exhaust:
First off, don't mess around with a high flow cat; just get a testpipe so you make more power and spend less money.
-Ebay Exhaust: ~$300+ shipped
-Buschur (lightest systems available, ask nicely for a testpipe instead of a HFC)
Bullet Muffler
Magnaflow "Quiet" Muffler
-AMS (high quality stuff, resonated testpipe $150 extra) Turboback with testpipe
-MAP o2 eliminator downpipe
-Megan Turboback with resonated testpipe
-Perrin Catback Only $380!
Boost gauge (yes you need one):
-Autometer (~$40 from summitracing.com)
-Prosport (MAPerformance, 'Style sponsor) for around $40
Boost control:
Manual Boost Controllers (cheap, effective, and best of all they work with no hassle!):
-Joe P XZ
-Hallman ES
-DB Performance
-Skip the ebay ones here, they are usually sub-par.
ECU Controlled Boost:
-option #1 (warranty friendly):#65 pill ($10-30 in parts- pills available pre-drilled here)
-option #2: Wire in GM BCS (~$45 in parts, this is what we're using)
If you go the GMBCS route pick up an evo X map sensor for ~$150 to save yourself the hassle of load-based and to just do it right the first time. Use this with mrfred's direct boost control mod for optimal ecu-controlled boost.
Evo8's set PEAK boost to 21psi (untuned) or 23psi (tuned)
Evo9's set PEAK boost to 22psi (untuned) or 24psi (tuned)
Intake:
This should help decide which intake to purchase for your car: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-results.html
-Vibrant Air Filter kit $38.99 (includes MAF adaptor)
-Perrin Air filter $52 for filter or $72 for filter and MAF adapter
-Perrin Complete Intake Kit $265
-Buschur Intake kit $260
-ETS $189 (low price and genuine K&N air filter!)
Intercooler pipes:
UICP: No measurable gains, mainly for looks and shorter route piping.
LICP: 5-12whp
-Nisei: $150+ (nice quality, mounting bracket)
-ETS LP2: $174+ (shown to make additional power compared to other designs)
-AMS: $303 (mounting bracket, lowest power gains)
O2 housing + port turbine housing:
-Megan o2 housing: ~$100, consistent quality.
-Buschur (ceramic coated megan): $200, keep those underhood temps down!)
-ebay: $60 or so, but you're taking your chances at what you get.
Port the little lip restricting flow out of the wastegate passage, and while you have it out, buy $5 worth of bits at home depot and gasket match the inlets of your turbine housing.
ported exhaust manifold:
-Buschur: $100 or $200 w/ ceramic coating + core.
-PPI: $65+ core
-DIY: lots of work, but it can be done. Gasket match outlets, port match inlets.
BOV: VIII guys only
-IX BOV: used for around $80, new for $140(?), the IX bov is the MOST DRIVABLE valve out there, and will hold 28+psi no problem. Do NOT waste your money and time on anything else or you will cry.
Wideband: Innovate LC-1 or PLX for cheap, compatible with ECU logging (gauges/displays cost extra)
Injectors: more fuel! Sell your stockers for $100+ on eBay to offset the cost!
-FIC (<$300): 850's & 1050's have been used by us, good idle and drivability.
Fuel Pump: In your first round of mods, do this. Yes it is way worth it. Your stock injectors are good for 300+whp with this mod! Stock VIII fuel pump will only do about 260whp (Dyno Dynamics) but the IX can flow slightly more.
Walbro 255HP: ~$70 at MAP!
E85: Less mileage, less consistency, requires frequent retuning for optimal power, but lots more power potential! 40+whp gains.
IX turbo: +10-15whp for VIII guys. Sell your stock turbo to offset the cost of this.
$350-550, depending on who/what/where. I ended up selling my stock VIII turbo w/ 10.5 hotside for $300 making this a real bargain!
Crankcase Vents:
-MAP Crankcase Vacuum Kit: $45 Lots of benefits, check them out!
Catch-Can:
-eBay: ~$25+ shipped
If you look at them both side by side, you'd be hard pressed to pick which one was which if the one did not have a megan logo on it. They are DAMN close if not identical. With that being said, I have the buschur w/ the ceramic coating, and I'm VERY glad I got it. I love having the coating on it!
If you look at them both side by side, you'd be hard pressed to pick which one was which if the one did not have a megan logo on it. They are DAMN close if not identical. With that being said, I have the buschur w/ the ceramic coating, and I'm VERY glad I got it. I love having the coating on it!
