no im using excel from microsoft so that might be the issue because I tried using open office and most of the time it wont work with excel. your going to have to use a different computer or install microsoft excel

 

When you are done logging with evoscan it should save it in the same format as mine unless you open it up in excell then save it after you view it which might cause me issues. I am cheap and open office is free I have it on my laptop and desktop.

 

hmmmm not sure it just opens up in excel automatically....

 

Do you save it after that? Mine automatically save as a .csv file and I can veiw in open office no prob although your file I tried converting and says its corrupt dunno what the deal is lol.

 

doing logging after work, overslept lol... I have been reading lately and 2 people are using the evo manfold, is this the intake manifold? and if so does this bolt straight up to block or does it need to be modidied? just curious

 

here are the logs from today that include IPW, and IDC

 

how do I fix this flat spot? Like what do I need to adjust in map to fix this issue so I can get every bit of power out of my car

 

If someone can tell me something maybe I have to do to get these logs to read in openoffice I would be much appreciated. I have been trying on and off the past couples day to view these logs to no avail . Dunno what I am doing wrong? I double click on it and then open with openoffice and it wants me to choose a template, none of which seem to work.

 

03lance do this, go to google.com and download the free trial of microsoft excel lol I just remembered I did that when I was in school last year lol

 

nevermind heading back to the books

 

car is still running great, I think that flat spot is from an air leak which probably came from my boost gauge because its broken now.... needle wont move and when I use my continuity tester the red light is dim which means its getting power but theres an issue somewhere in the guage.

Oh and one more problem my ams boost controller is missing the ball bearing... it fell out and now I cant find it so its kinda of whatever.

 

ok I called ams to see if I can get another ceramic ball for the boost controller, and they told me I have to buy a new boost controller.... Great there goes $35.00 down the drain... Anyone know where I can get a ball at for the ams boost controller?

heres a link for a pic

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/images/AMS0029.jpg

also how do yall feel about ebay boost controllers?

 

Okim starting a new thread line to seperate my tuning questions from mechanical. So heres the scoop

I log the car for almost an hour today consisting of cruising and idling


Now here are the specs of my tune plus injectors

injectors are rated at 882cc, in order to tune them to the correct setting they need to scaled 15-20% lower than the rated flow. so I need to work with a scale between 705 - 750 no higher or lower than these specs.


Right now my ltft's for idle and cruise are at

.10 idle, and -1.08 for mid/cruise at a scale of 790 which is over my limit I posted.

the latency im using for my rom is

4.6875 - 4.944
7.03125 - 3.192
9.375 - 2.184
11.7188 - 1.368
14.0625 - 1.008
16.4062 - 0.624
18.6768 - 0.432

 

so here are a couple questions, im going to use my scaling percentage at the top. I know how to adjust my ltft's according by latency and scaling.

1.) When adjusting the latency's do I need to adjust the entire latency portion, or adjust each one individually?

2.) what voltages do you guys run or how do I setup the voltage by how my car runs and idles?

3.) my car's voltage idle is around 13.92 - 14.32 which puts my voltage around the 14.06 portion correct? do you guys adjust them buy increments, or do you multiply them by a percentage to get your ltft's close to zero? - if you have to adjust one latency or the whole row...

depending on the answers I will a few more questions so I can get my car tuned this week.

 

When you make adjustments to the latencies, make increments/decrements in the smallest amount possible allowed by EcuFlash. Increment/Decrement by .01. While cruising you will adjust around 14.06v. At idle it will be closer to 12.5v or so. Making changes to the surrounding voltages will also have an effect, but not as much as changing the direct values at 14.06v.