Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

It cost me like $150 from a local friend that does a lot of rolling to get mine pulled 3/4" all around. No paint work or chipping outside of the rolled edge and they've been pulled for like 4 years now.

He did another friends Evo later and had a little bit of chipping on the front right but that was easy enough to cleanup with touchup paint. If you really look for it you can find it but its pretty much invisible.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Sow me the ways because I was able to roll my passenger rear perfectly flat, by my driver side is like a 3/4 roll the last 4-5 inches to the rear bumper. It just wouldn't roll flat for some reason. The fender just kept pulling.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Yeah you suck. I hate body work as it turns out. My roller costs me ~$100 I destroyed my rear quarters well driverside is OK but passenger side sucks. Oh and I ruined a front fender so that was another ~250 IIRC and didnt learn my lesson and almost ruined the other front fender as I was like "oh Ill just be more careful this time" lol! Worst part with the front fender was that it was just about perfect and then out of nowhere bam it just friggin snapped! Did I say I hate body work.

But man what a deal you got. Wish I had a buddy like that. Or maybe friends in general, lol

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Rears are already rolled flat and pulled. Ive also already shaved the trailing arm in anticipation.

Front is just evodave mod. No rolling. I previously had ce28 in 10.5" on the front with a spacer.

Initial fit of nt03 no spacer. Cleared strut etc. More pics to follow as i get closer to completion.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, didn't know everyone has so many issues with it. On the rear of the rear fender I cut out the section that has that double wall area with a dremel and followed that line to the sheet metal that holds the bumper for extra clearance. I didn't move the bumper bolt, just cut the sheet metal up to it.


Up front I removed the front bumper bolts in about an inch using aluminum rivnuts and cut some more clearance there as well.


Maybe I'll snap some pics tonight to show.

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Im loling at some of you saying good luck. Like Ive come this far to just say, well wheels too hard to fit, better sell the evo hahaha

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Haha I didn't mean good luck as in lol good luck they're never going to fit! I genuinely meant good luck because I had a ball myself getting them to fit on my car. But sounds like you're well under way and making great progress so keep it up!

Surprised you can fit the front without a spacer. On my car with the Ohlins the tire hit the lower spring perch. Im guessing you dont have 8" springs in the front? Either that or your ride height is much higher than mine...

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Was it your thread that was going for fully tucking the 275s without rubbing anything? I definitely don't have that necessity. Rubbing is self clearancing :P. My 295s just slightly rub the fenders in the back but I'll go back to the 285s and have all kinds of clearance.


Also, why you still running an 8" spring? Drop that thing to 6, you don't need that much (or ever use that much) travel. Even if you're softer (10k?) you still will never hit coil bind.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I wasn't saying you sell the Evo, just saying I woulve went for the +38 offset and built trailing arms and saved a bunch of room on the fender.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Rubbing is self clearancing, lol I suppose that is true for certain things like what's left of my fender liners. But as far as things that have actual strength to them such as the rear quarters I think those would win the battle vs a piece of rubber, lol

I just run street tires for now still and Im on 285/30's. Contemplating for my next set keeping it simple with the 285/30 RE71 or maaaayyybe just maybe looking into stuffing a 315/30 Rival S granted frmo my little research I've done I think that is a big jump and then I might need to look into at least an 11" wheel at that point, ugh

And yeah I am sadly on 8" springs which is my problem up front at least. The thing is I started stock rates with my Ohlins 8k 10k then quickly picked up a set of 650#'s and put the 10k on the front. Then I bought another set of springs 800# and sent in for a revalve and put the 650's up front and the 800's in the rear. The problem with my progression with stiffer springs is that everytime I go stiffer I put the ones on the rear in the front so those are always hand me downs so to speak.

If I could have seen into the future I would have gone with 6" springs but in that logic I would have done a ton of things differently through the years.

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Honestly I'm sorry. I think my last comment was fueled by me working in 95degree heat trying to get the driver rear arm, rear bolt in. Which is kicking my ***. These wheels will fit and be trackable! Ill cut the fender if I have to lol. Was thinking of making voltex knockoff fender overs work if it comes to it.

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Oh and yes, i have the 6 or 7 inch springs. Dont remeber which Drew from GTworx sold me at the moment...

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Question for anyone whos reading. Ive been installing everything dry except blue serviceable thread locker. Logic is ant-seize would heat up and melt or burn due to brake heat. Specifically hub to knucle and half-shaft to hub.

Car will never be a daily and is in a garage 24x7. No winters etc.

Any thoughts?

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

I've never used anti-seize on anything external of the motor in over 15yrs with zero issues.

Disclaimer: I live in California but my cars see snow every winter

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

Thats what I needed to hear, thanks!