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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 09:31 AM
  #106  
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I would remove the OEM dust shields and just make heat shields for the lower ball joint and tierod end. Those full coverage dust shields keep a lot of heat in the rotor.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 09:56 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
I would remove the OEM dust shields and just make heat shields for the lower ball joint and tierod end. Those full coverage dust shields keep a lot of heat in the rotor.
I'm on the fence. I'm hoping the rotors centrifugal design plus ducts will be sufficient. I'll probably run as is and if there are any signs of trouble pull them out. Will consider rotor heat paint or a temp gun when I get out to a HPDE.

The other thing I've only recently thought of is the brakes heating up the inverted tube and fluid of the Ohlins. I'm going to keep the shields until they prove to be an issue.

Last edited by V.8MR; Aug 14, 2016 at 03:52 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 01:35 PM
  #108  
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Things are on a slight hold. Realized the Ohlins/Swifts didn't come with thrust washers for the spring perches. Also I have ordered more TS exhaust hangers so I can get the right fitment, in addition to DEI exhaust wrap for the down-pipe. I see how the oil pan is being heated by it. Thinking about a DEI turbo blanket also. Not sure yet. Chatting with racefab on facebook about a new baffled pan as well.





What else, ordered strut to brake line brackets, bolt for strut to lower-rear-arm. Received new brake duct tubing. Ordered 11' x 2" section.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Temp_Ducting2

As mentioned I want to remove AC completely and relocate the ACD pump. Working on some more weight reduction, took out all speakers and tweeters and frankly am just getting started.

So knowing I'm not going to get it to a HPDE until next season I'm going to tackle some of this if I can.

Last edited by V.8MR; Aug 14, 2016 at 01:48 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 07:10 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
I would remove the OEM dust shields and just make heat shields for the lower ball joint and tierod end. Those full coverage dust shields keep a lot of heat in the rotor.
Doesnt that heat shied also protect the ABS sensor? And IIRC you killed an ABS sensor from heat or was it something else?

Originally Posted by V.8MR
Things are on a slight hold. Realized the Ohlins/Swifts didn't come with thrust washers for the spring perches.
I don't have thrust washers with mine and can't say Im upset about it nor have I cared to do anything about it. They seem fine without them and that just seems like an added cost for not much benefit it any at all and another part that will wear out as sand and dirt and grit get in there to compromise them. Any reason you want them?
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 08:13 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Doesnt that heat shied also protect the ABS sensor? And IIRC you killed an ABS sensor from heat or was it something else?



I don't have thrust washers with mine and can't say Im upset about it nor have I cared to do anything about it. They seem fine without them and that just seems like an added cost for not much benefit it any at all and another part that will wear out as sand and dirt and grit get in there to compromise them. Any reason you want them?
The stock dust shield provides a mount for the sensor wire. I forgot to secure the sensor wire with zip ties, So it was probably riding on the rotor...lol.


The dust shields do not keep the shock cool. There is plenty of air going through that area that something 4"+ away isn't seeing a huge effect.
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 08:55 AM
  #111  
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I wouldn't say I'm upset, but I feel like this is the cause of a lot of the clunking people experience. I know that with my previous coil-overs the spring would bind when turning and cause clunk etc.

They aren't expensive, and are self lubricating. Going to add them in the interest of being thorough.

As far as the shock, I cant imagine them not getting hot if the rotor can get hot enough to glow. Radiating heat is what the shield would protect against.
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 09:17 AM
  #112  
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I had the dust shields off on my evo 8. Made a difference in fade for sure.

One bit of insight. I used normal nylon zipties to secure the abs sensor line to the knuckle.

After 10+ track events, some in 100f+ heat, the zipties showed no sign of melting or failure. In fact, they outlasted two six speed transmissions. Lol

I took the shields off on my 10 as well.
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 09:21 AM
  #113  
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^^ I have zipties holding my ABS line as well. After 5 years of AX and a trackday here and there, they didn't even get brittle when I removed my stock uprights a few months ago.
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 09:27 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Doesnt that heat shied also protect the ABS sensor? And IIRC you killed an ABS sensor from heat or was it something else?



I don't have thrust washers with mine and can't say Im upset about it nor have I cared to do anything about it. They seem fine without them and that just seems like an added cost for not much benefit it any at all and another part that will wear out as sand and dirt and grit get in there to compromise them. Any reason you want them?
Originally Posted by razorlab
I had the dust shields off on my evo 8. Made a difference in fade for sure.

One bit of insight. I used normal nylon zipties to secure the abs sensor line to the knuckle.

After 10+ track events, some in 100f+ heat, the zipties showed no sign of melting or failure. In fact, they outlasted two six speed transmissions. Lol

I took the shields off on my 10 as well.
Originally Posted by V.8MR
I wouldn't say I'm upset, but I feel like this is the cause of a lot of the clunking people experience. I know that with my previous coil-overs the spring would bind when turning and cause clunk etc.

They aren't expensive, and are self lubricating. Going to add them in the interest of being thorough.

As far as the shock, I cant imagine them not getting hot if the rotor can get hot enough to glow. Radiating heat is what the shield would protect against.
Originally Posted by Dallas J
^^ I have zipties holding my ABS line as well. After 5 years of AX and a trackday here and there, they didn't even get brittle when I removed my stock uprights a few months ago.
Yup. Radiant heat doesn't mean anything when there is a LOT of air flow through an area. I went overkill on ym car and used stainless zip ties that you would use to secure header wrap. Looks like I wasted my money...lol
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 09:50 AM
  #115  
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Well I cant argue with real world findings. I'll remove them and see what I can make to protect the ball-joint and tie-rod at least.

I need more money but I am super interested in doing a TRE 12 plate rear diff. Was thinking of trying to re-stack my diff myself but I'm hesitant.
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 10:02 AM
  #116  
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These are easy to make:


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...atshields.html


The stock diff restack isn't hard to do, but I wouldn't do it if you don't have confidence in doing it. You can mess things up, and getting the carrier out and back in isn't super easy due to the very tight fit.
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 11:10 AM
  #117  
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Thanx for the link, I'd previously read that thread and it looks like a great solution!
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 08:18 AM
  #118  
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To add to the pot here - I've killed 2 ABS sensors due to heat fatigue in races, once I wrapped the sensor and wire in firetube I've yet to kill one since. Also agree on the boot shielding - I also did header wrap with ss zip ties and it looks to be much happier that way (ie no brown anymore).
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 12:41 PM
  #119  
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Past couple days just waiting on more parts and doing little stuff. Installed thrust washers. Completed brake rebuild with new OE bleeders and copper O rings for the line. Used old boots as they were in good shape. Also noticed the pads I got from No_Limit/Giro Disk were pre-cut which was a nice surprise. Received more misc like the wrap/ties/coating and some gold tape.

I also got the correct attachment for my dremel. I believe its a tungsten carbide bit which is perfect for porting/cutting metal. Got the ducts cleaned/opened up even larger.




Nice photo of opportunity as the sun was setting and only had garage door cracked open.



Rounding out the brake rebuild.



Pre-cut pads!



Old bleeders and o-rings. Some of them are rounded or damaged from abuse over the years.



DEI/Torque solutions goodies. Using all new gaskets from the turbo back. New spring bolts for down-pipe. Hangers to hold everything in place.



Swift 65mm Thrust washers.



Thrust washers installed on front coil-overs only.


Last edited by V.8MR; Aug 20, 2016 at 12:48 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 11:54 AM
  #120  
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Slow going. Sorry for boring updates but this is as much about documenting for myself as sharing with others haha. I've got a friend who is making the heat shielding based on the pdf in EGbeater's thread in SS for me. Also ordered some 1/2" Insultherm for the front abs sensors.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...anelInsulation

Got e-brakes back on and working. Reinstalled rear coil-overs and rear calipers. I realized only 2 of the 4 rear pads were cut so I had to remove and reinstall with the cut ones on the outside to clear the rotor hat. Received new bolts for calipers and rear struts, front brake line brackets.










Removed the passenger seat to get carpet out as well.





I scored 10' of wire shelving and garage looks much better now too. Still need to insulate the underside of the roof and install some heaters.









Last edited by V.8MR; Aug 28, 2016 at 01:22 PM.
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