When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Lol nice spreadsheet I have the same thing in my google docs. Guess Im selfish since I didn't share the wealth, lol!
Couple things here...do you always plan to run a 275/35-18? Bc its kinda tall which will give you some speed, which I know is stating the obvious but if you build it around expectation that you will see a certain speed a simple tire swap could easily skew things.
Also, what are your thoughts on raising the limiter? When I went through the math the difference between 8 grand to 9 grand is huge! Personally that is what Im most excited about with my new motor so just throwing the idea out there to get some juices flowing on your end.
Short answers, no and yes.
Planning to move to a 295/30 next season so I'll be losing .6" of tire diameter and yes it's annoying how tall the 275/35 is (it's taller than a 315/30!).
I'd love to raise the limiter. Right now I'm only spinning 7500 bc stock valvetrain. After I throw in the cams and springs this winter I'll bump it to 8000. I don't trust my $350 chinese Manley rods to last long at 9 grand so I'm going to stay at 8, maybe 8500 if I feel frisky when it gets retuned and if things look good. But redline isn't the only thing to consider either (for track driving) for example, if maintaining speed through a long sweeper, I wouldn't want to be sitting at 7-8 grand through said sweeper for 10+ seconds at a time every lap for 20 minutes. And that's part of the appeal to longer gears, longer gear > upshifting.
Thanks for the input. I forgot, what did you have done to your trans?
I like the taller 4th. It doesn't hurt the 3-4 ratio gap and still shifts well, especially with the double synchro. And it shortens the gap to 5th, so using a 9 5th still works well.
At the tracks I go to I spend most of my time in 3rd so being able to stretch that further helps a lot, plus it makes the 3-4 gap much nicer than the 3-4 gap with an 8 or 9 gear (the PAR is about 7% taller than the 8 and 11% taller than the 9). It's pretty rare that I go into 5th but when I do it's an absolutely drag, so closing the 4-5 gap is definitely needed. Still playing around with ratios and engine speeds to try and find a combo that makes me happy without making my wallet go into a coma.
All of the tracks I go to use 4th gear at least twice as there are spots that are 120mph+. I have yet to go anywhere where I need 5th yet. All of the tracks I go to have spots where I'd benefit from that taller 3rd I think though.
Ratio graph is like 90% done, just need to take a bit more time to implement an effective system to remove unused areas of each gear off the graph.
Just a note, when you download it as an excel file, to get the graph to work you need to change the horizontal axis to be formatted as a date, not sure what went wrong there but once you make that change it will display properly.
Edit: ratio graph is done, might go back later to give it a bit more resolution so the lines hug redline a little better but other than that I'm content with it.
Planning to move to a 295/30 next season so I'll be losing .6" of tire diameter and yes it's annoying how tall the 275/35 is (it's taller than a 315/30!).
I'd love to raise the limiter. Right now I'm only spinning 7500 bc stock valvetrain. After I throw in the cams and springs this winter I'll bump it to 8000. I don't trust my $350 chinese Manley rods to last long at 9 grand so I'm going to stay at 8, maybe 8500 if I feel frisky when it gets retuned and if things look good. But redline isn't the only thing to consider either (for track driving) for example, if maintaining speed through a long sweeper, I wouldn't want to be sitting at 7-8 grand through said sweeper for 10+ seconds at a time every lap for 20 minutes. And that's part of the appeal to longer gears, longer gear > upshifting.
Thanks for the input. I forgot, what did you have done to your trans?
Understand where you're coming from in regards to not wanting it to sit at 8 grand for 10 seconds straight I can see EGTs and oil temps shooting up there like that. I guess my point was simply that playing around with the limited can give you some interesting results and is an easy way to get more speed out of each gear without giving up acceleration that a taller gear will provide. But of course there is no perfect solution; its always going to be a compromise.
FWIW I don't know much about those rods but I'd expect the rod bolts to fail before the rods with revs. I spun my stock motor to 8 grand and then when I went S2s and their basic 5039 springs with stock retainers went to 8300 for literally years. With basic Manleys and ARPs 8500 should be fine Id think especially the 2.0 that youre running. Just something to think about as 7500 is too low and youre leaving too much on the table
As for my trans I didn't do anything special; IX 1st gear and VIII gears for everything else. Looking at the invoice Jon basically replaced like everything so ended up being same cost as a new trans from Mitsu. But fine by me it shifts great thus far!
Got the engine and trans pulled this weekend. Got the head off and found some slight signs of leakage into the coolant jacket on cyl 1.
That was pretty expected though. The unexpected came in the form of 3 broken pucks and more cracked on my CC stage 4 clutch. Called Comp who said they won't do anything since it's out of the 90 day warranty. Pretty pissed because it barely has 8k on it and it's not even close to getting down to the rivets. PP and flywheel have one heat spot, wonder why 🙄😡 Need to find out if I can run someone else's disc with the CC flywheel and PP.
^That's really unfair man, especially because your clutch looks great otherwise and doesn't show any kind of constant misuse. For the pucks to crack and break off like that, i'd think has a lot to do with how the manufacturer is suppose to secure the puck material to the disk. I think the cheapest method of repair would be to throw in another friction disk and see what happens. If it happens again, then i'd switch clutches entirely.
^That's really unfair man, especially because your clutch looks great otherwise and doesn't show any kind of constant misuse. For the pucks to crack and break off like that, i'd think has a lot to do with how the manufacturer is suppose to secure the puck material to the disk. I think the cheapest method of repair would be to throw in another friction disk and see what happens. If it happens again, then i'd switch clutches entirely.
It kind of is but that's the nature of aftermarket stuff. Companies don't want to give away free **** unless they absolutely have to or they think they'll benefit from it. I'm sure my case is just another drop in the bucket for them so there's no point dwelling on it, but the thing I hate most about the entire situation is how many people I've recommend Comp setups to over the past year. For a single disc that's rated for 575 torque the driveability is awesome on it but had I known this would've been the result I'd of gone a different direction.
As it stands, I'm going to give ACT a call and see if their friction disc is usable with the Comp PP. I don't see why it wouldn't but I don't want to go making any assumptions and end up burning myself doing that without looking into it first. Maybe I'll try and get a decent deal on a new clutch for black friday. Worst case scenario, a new friction disc is only like $140 so I could give that a shot to hold me over for another year but I'd rather not end up in the same boat.
It kind of is but that's the nature of aftermarket stuff. Companies don't want to give away free **** unless they absolutely have to or they think they'll benefit from it. I'm sure my case is just another drop in the bucket for them so there's no point dwelling on it, but the thing I hate most about the entire situation is how many people I've recommend Comp setups to over the past year. For a single disc that's rated for 575 torque the driveability is awesome on it but had I known this would've been the result I'd of gone a different direction.
As it stands, I'm going to give ACT a call and see if their friction disc is usable with the Comp PP. I don't see why it wouldn't but I don't want to go making any assumptions and end up burning myself doing that without looking into it first. Maybe I'll try and get a decent deal on a new clutch for black friday. Worst case scenario, a new friction disc is only like $140 so I could give that a shot to hold me over for another year but I'd rather not end up in the same boat.
Yeah, I have to admit though, that would sell me on it too. A 575 torque single disk that lasts would be sweet. My ACT 6-puck sprung single disk is doing well so far, but definitely has slightly rougher engagement, which is a fair trade for the 725ft lb torque rating. Still much more street friendly than my previous exedy triple, but the Comp clutch has its strong points. Maybe not in the friction disk itself though. Looks like you'd be getting the same disk as me if you go with the ACT replacement.
So on the engine side, are you going to resurface the block or cylinder head?
Yeah, I have to admit though, that would sell me on it too. A 575 torque single disk that lasts would be sweet. My ACT 6-puck sprung single disk is doing well so far, but definitely has slightly rougher engagement, which is a fair trade for the 725ft lb torque rating. Still much more street friendly than my previous exedy triple, but the Comp clutch has its strong points. Maybe not in the friction disk itself though. Looks like you'd be getting the same disk as me if you go with the ACT replacement.
So on the engine side, are you going to resurface the block or cylinder head?
Yea, I'd probably go with the ACT 6 puck. Generally you lose the most driveability from upgraded clutches when you move to a higher clamp load pressure plate because it makes the pedal effort higher. The other way to increase clutch performance is use a more aggressive compound and the downside of that is more aggressive compounds are more grabby so they have more of an on-off feel and don't like being slipped. I'm guessing the biggest difference between your ACT and my Comps' torque ratings are that yours uses a higher clamp load pressure plate. My clutch is barely more effort than stock but it's very grabby because of the disc used.
Both are getting resurfaced. Last time I tore it apart for the fried headgasket I only decked the head and that's probably why I'm back here again today.
Edit: looks like ACT also offers a 4 puck which would like high rpm shifting better than the 6 puck. I'm gonna ring ACT when I get off work today.
Last edited by Ayoustin; Nov 13, 2018 at 12:43 PM.
Got the head torn down last night. Found some rust on my exhaust seats and on the valves which I've never seen before. Going to clean the valves up tonight and lap them and get the head to the machine shop.
Well got the valves cleaned up, seats are pretty pitted on the exhaust side so I might get a valve job done. Or I might just lap them and send it because it's most likely getting torn down next winter anyway.
