Got a cover modded by Tom

 

I got the STM sealed can and I still somehow have blow by on shifts. No oil in intercooler, pipes, bov, or comp side of turbo.

 

Smoke out the exhaust you mean?

 

Indeed. Should've clarified. My apologies

 

Rig up a way to monitor crank pressure, then give FP a call once you have data showing the turbo shouldn't be leaking. Or you can send it in blind with no data...

 

To measure crank case pressure I bought a 1/4” Male NPT x 3/16” Barb Kynar Elbow from bulkreefsupply.com ($3.09 +free shipping) and went to O'Rielly and got an oil cap ($7.99). 1/4" NPT is a tight fit in the cap but it will work. That was the smallest NPT tap I had so thats what I went with. If you already have a smaller tap or have to buy one anyway go with a smaller size. And obviously get the right size barb for whatever vacuum line you are going to use.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ozone-...pt-x-barb.html

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2247&ppt=C0332

 

I thought it was my turbo too at one point but turns out it was my valve guides. Exhaust ports 1 and 4 looked like used oil drums when I took the manifold off. Worth a look.

Thanks for the part links XS, buddy wanted a new oil cap so I sent that to him.

I'm turning my 3 port STM can into a recirc can with a few fittings in attempt to resolve the 1qt per session coming from the dipstick port. Will report back.

 

Fyi, that oil cap is ****. I wouldn't use it long term. Just long enough to get a reading. The metal cross plate deal bends really easily. If you need a new one spend the $20 or whatever on a decent one.

 

Maybe this has been mentioned before, but my back up solution if I have an issue when I install the HTZ Zona Red will be to install a vacuum draw on the downpipe like this (Thanks to Biffman for the suggestion and idea):


Then add a check valve to prevent backfires:

 

Interested to see pics/results if/when you do this.

 

I have still yet to make a Oil cap that i can fit my vacuum gauge on.

But i can say at idle it takes effort to pull off the oil cap.

My setup is overbuilt but for reason.

Two separate sealed cans down low to stay cool, one is setup on the Evac, the other is on the intake. A check valve is on the Evac side to prevent backfires from entering the crankcase.





One last Catch can for the intake for added vacuum during deceleration. The picture is old, i moved the check valve between the CC and Manifold to prevent boost from entering the can.




So what i got so far (1200 miles on new build) is a motor that has NOT ate any oil. I got like maybe 1 Tablespoons in the PVC Catch can, and maybe 1-2 Tbsp in the Evac Catch can. The Evac has been very good at pulling moisture from the Crank....it fills with water faster than oil. This is good for when i switch to E-85.

No what i can say that helped the Evac system to work was to removed the Downpipe place the Bung at the end of the Down pipe post O2 and Wideband (Test pipe might work too). Use a Air compressor with plenty of volume and pushed over 30-40 psi down the pipe. There i could set the EVAC valve to its optimal height and direction to pull the best vacuum. I ended up with the EVAC siphon about 180 degrees from what the manufacture recommended, Weld-in bung is installed @45 degrees down stream, just like instructions. But so far the results have been good.

If somehow i get more time i can get some real data, But for now i am working out fuel system kinks and getting the Base tune dialed in, so the Tests with the Vacuum have been on the back burner, and i have been busy teaching A&P Mechanics at night.

So sorry for the Delays, but i have been working getting this Old School Idea to work for our application.



Edit: my Valve cover

 

It's just annoying and doesn't happen every time. I'm still trying to find the engine load where it's most frequent.

 

I am not going to read 94 pages. And likely this will be my only post. But I have been building engines for maybe 30 years. 4g63 engines since the mid 90s. I quickly learned building engines using after market pistons its very difficult to get good ring seal under boost. Or I should say its very easy to get it wrong when building an engine and end up with crankcase pressure that simply shouldn't be there.

My 2.3 in my yellow car is built by me. It has never had a catch can. it made 600whp at 34.5 psi and the catch can is the top of the transmission. the stock vent line just dangles on top of tranny. I get virtually no oil build up. the PVC is hooked up like stock. dip stick does not pop up. intercooler pipes are bone dry. It took building about a dozen motors before I talked to the right people and figured it all out.

I am about 99% sure all this catch can research is really just a bandaid for an engine that is not built right.

 

Then what's your secret sauce? Or are you saying Mitsubishi built my motor wrong? Lol.

Even the best motor will have 5% leak down. 5% of 3,000psi of cylinder pressure means you will have some pressure to relieve from the crank case.

 

Maintaining negative crank pressure is not just for blow-by gases, but to also to promote proper oil pressure. For every psi over in the crank, the oil has to overcome that to circulate.