Focus RS
It is comments like ^^^ that make want to aggressively take the opposite stance. There is literally nothing posted in this thread, or online, that would support that claim.
The IX is lighter, Car & Drive list the stock IX as faster than the RS 0 to 100 mph, equal in the 1/4 mile, and faster at Braking 70-0 mph. The RS boost control strategy has been shown not to provide overboost anywhere near full-time. And the RS' ecu appears to limit power when it detects traction loss and/or the RDU getting hot.
http://www.caranddriver.com/comparis...e-specs-page-5
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...w-specs-page-2
I apologize to anyone I may have offended. This will be my last post in this thread.
The IX is lighter, Car & Drive list the stock IX as faster than the RS 0 to 100 mph, equal in the 1/4 mile, and faster at Braking 70-0 mph. The RS boost control strategy has been shown not to provide overboost anywhere near full-time. And the RS' ecu appears to limit power when it detects traction loss and/or the RDU getting hot.
http://www.caranddriver.com/comparis...e-specs-page-5
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...w-specs-page-2
I apologize to anyone I may have offended. This will be my last post in this thread.
EvoM Guru
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
Yea, looking forward to seeing E40 and tuners understanding the car more.
btw, there is a ex-evo owner local that has a RS now and he has been talking to me about tuning it.
Just have to wait for Cobb to release AccessTuner for it.
Hmmm.. this driveshaft size... :-/
...
btw, there is a ex-evo owner local that has a RS now and he has been talking to me about tuning it.
Just have to wait for Cobb to release AccessTuner for it.
Hmmm.. this driveshaft size... :-/
...
It is comments like ^^^ that make want to aggressively take the opposite stance. There is literally nothing posted in this thread, or online, that would support that claim.
The IX is lighter, Car & Drive list the stock IX as faster than the RS 0 to 100 mph, equal in the 1/4 mile, and faster at Braking 70-0 mph. The RS boost control strategy has been shown not to provide overboost anywhere near full-time. And the RS' ecu appears to limit power when it detects traction loss and/or the RDU getting hot.
http://www.caranddriver.com/comparis...e-specs-page-5
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...w-specs-page-2
I apologize to anyone I may have offended. This will be my last post in this thread.
The IX is lighter, Car & Drive list the stock IX as faster than the RS 0 to 100 mph, equal in the 1/4 mile, and faster at Braking 70-0 mph. The RS boost control strategy has been shown not to provide overboost anywhere near full-time. And the RS' ecu appears to limit power when it detects traction loss and/or the RDU getting hot.
http://www.caranddriver.com/comparis...e-specs-page-5
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...w-specs-page-2
I apologize to anyone I may have offended. This will be my last post in this thread.
The CT9A is old and when considered in totally stock US configuration, just is not as impressive anymore ten years on. It's still probably one of the best modifiable imports ever, though.
Nobody was offended, just tired of you driving the thread off topic and your total blinders to progress.
team O'neil just got one white RS today, and he did about 13 minutes video of his first impression of the car.
Anybody who has a FB and friends with Team Oneil rally school, can watch it. Interesting.
Anybody who has a FB and friends with Team Oneil rally school, can watch it. Interesting.
Granted, if/when tuners figure out how to send a few hundred lb-ft of torque rearward, then it'll be an issue.
Now it just looks like a mechanical fuse rated at the RDU's torque capacity.
420 ft/lbs ?? snap! ........ congratulations you now have a FWD car.
the 4wd system explains the dyno inconsistency, what about the inconsistency in trap speeds? been reading about overboost resets, but haven't been following too closely. definitely interesting though
From a local, and also ex Evo owner who autox and tracks all his cars:
Originally Posted by Navid
I think this is the only RS in the country which has seen 3 days of competition already. So, I have a little bit of data that may be helpful to the rest of you. It's a bit lengthy, but I figured I'd give you all the info and let you sift through it.
I've had this car for 19 days now. First weekend was the break-in weekend. Took the car down to LA and back. Varied the speed constantly on the way down and up for the break-in. The ride, even with the normal setting on the shocks, is a bit bouncy. It gets much worse with shocks in sport mode. However, it's tolerable for most of us.
Noticed the car would not boost over 15psi, but there is so much power, you don't really feel it if you haven't driven the car under normal boost. After the break-in period was over, the boost increased to 22ish.
Sync3 is easy to use and works nicely. I could control Spotify on my iPhone on the touch screen.
Next weekend was the SCCA autox at Marina. Temps were in 60's. The Michs are horrible autox tires. I did my first run in track mode which turns off the traction control and puts the shocks in sport mode. Car was super pushy in tight corners, but transitioned well in the slaloms.
Put the car in drift mode for the remainder of my runs. The drift mode turns off the sport shock setting, but you can turn them to sport mode manually. The car now rotates under power. Still pushed at turn-in.
The real test came this weekend at Crows Landing under really hot weather conditions and grippy concrete. Before the event, the car was aligned by my buddy, Scott Fraser, who is a wizard at aligning autox cars. The factory alignment was a little uneven in the rear toe and had a toe-in at the front. We evened the rear at zero and went from toe-in to just a little toe-out in front. We also increased the front camber to 1.5. That's not maxed. We just adjusted it at the bottom. We can get more if needed. There's more adjustability at the top, but you have to remove lots of panels to get to it. We will do that in the future if needed.
Not ready to give up on the track mode, I tried my first 2 run on Sat in track mode. Turn-in was much improved by the alignment. Course was fast and flowing. 3rd gear in 2 places on the course. The crappy tires are not as bad in faster parts, but sucked majorly in the tight stuff. Car pushed badly coming out of tight corners. Time to go to drift mode.
The temps where around 100 and I had the car running the whole time with the AC on at the grid. I would turn the hvac completely off before each run. The water temp stayed dead center and the oil temp would cross center a bit after each run, but come back to the middle after idling for a while.
As I was sitting in grid waiting for my 3rd run, I see a display pop up in the dash saying "driver mode not selectable". The car now goes back to normal mode, changing the mode, the shocks and traction control back to normal. Huh? I thought that was odd. Turned the car off. Turned it back on and set the mode to drift and put the shocks to sport. Everything looks good.
I start my 3rd run. Car feel good and rotates under power in the first 2 corners. Not so much after that. Power was cut a bit coming out of the next corner and there's hot air blowing at my feet now! When I finished the course, I noticed the mode was normal again and the heater was on full blast with the AC light on!!!
I immediately suspected user error. Did I hit one of the hvac buttons when I shifted to 3rd? Did I turned the car off and on before I left grid and change the mode to normal?
On my last run on Sat, I made sure everything was set correctly and made sure I didn't come close to touching the hvac buttons during my run. Same results. After my run, I noticed the information icon was on in the dash. Went to the info center and looked at the message. "Drive mode not selectable".
Thought about this a bit Sat night. The users manual has multiple mentions of the awd being disabled because of the rear diff heating up under harsh conditions. But the error they refer to never popped up on the screen.
I decided to cool the car down between my runs on Sun. No idling in grid, no AC on, water down the rear diff, intercooler, radiator and intake manifold between runs. Sunday conditions were exactly the same as Sat. 99 degrees on the display. No issues what so ever on Sunday. The drift mode worked nicely. Car rotates and even goes loose on the exit, but completely manageable.
The launch mode is glorious and works well if you have lots of time once you get to the line. It's a pain in the *** in real drag race or prosolo situation where you have limited time after you stage.
The car has to be stationary (staged) and the clutch all the way in for the TC mode to be turned on. The problem is, you have to go 3 levels deep in the menu to turn it on. You can cheat and go into the submenus before you go to the line, but you have 10 sec before it times out and pop you back out. Royal PITA!
As you can see in the picture, it is lifting the inside rear tire off the ground, even with the crappy tires. That could contribute to the rear diff heating up, not to mention the hit on traction coming out of the corner. A bigger front sway bar is needed.
I'll report more when I get some RE-71R's on the car.
Disclaimer: I still have a big cast on my right foot and can't modulate the pedals at all. You may have a different experience with the car's handling.
I've had this car for 19 days now. First weekend was the break-in weekend. Took the car down to LA and back. Varied the speed constantly on the way down and up for the break-in. The ride, even with the normal setting on the shocks, is a bit bouncy. It gets much worse with shocks in sport mode. However, it's tolerable for most of us.
Noticed the car would not boost over 15psi, but there is so much power, you don't really feel it if you haven't driven the car under normal boost. After the break-in period was over, the boost increased to 22ish.
Sync3 is easy to use and works nicely. I could control Spotify on my iPhone on the touch screen.
Next weekend was the SCCA autox at Marina. Temps were in 60's. The Michs are horrible autox tires. I did my first run in track mode which turns off the traction control and puts the shocks in sport mode. Car was super pushy in tight corners, but transitioned well in the slaloms.
Put the car in drift mode for the remainder of my runs. The drift mode turns off the sport shock setting, but you can turn them to sport mode manually. The car now rotates under power. Still pushed at turn-in.
The real test came this weekend at Crows Landing under really hot weather conditions and grippy concrete. Before the event, the car was aligned by my buddy, Scott Fraser, who is a wizard at aligning autox cars. The factory alignment was a little uneven in the rear toe and had a toe-in at the front. We evened the rear at zero and went from toe-in to just a little toe-out in front. We also increased the front camber to 1.5. That's not maxed. We just adjusted it at the bottom. We can get more if needed. There's more adjustability at the top, but you have to remove lots of panels to get to it. We will do that in the future if needed.
Not ready to give up on the track mode, I tried my first 2 run on Sat in track mode. Turn-in was much improved by the alignment. Course was fast and flowing. 3rd gear in 2 places on the course. The crappy tires are not as bad in faster parts, but sucked majorly in the tight stuff. Car pushed badly coming out of tight corners. Time to go to drift mode.
The temps where around 100 and I had the car running the whole time with the AC on at the grid. I would turn the hvac completely off before each run. The water temp stayed dead center and the oil temp would cross center a bit after each run, but come back to the middle after idling for a while.
As I was sitting in grid waiting for my 3rd run, I see a display pop up in the dash saying "driver mode not selectable". The car now goes back to normal mode, changing the mode, the shocks and traction control back to normal. Huh? I thought that was odd. Turned the car off. Turned it back on and set the mode to drift and put the shocks to sport. Everything looks good.
I start my 3rd run. Car feel good and rotates under power in the first 2 corners. Not so much after that. Power was cut a bit coming out of the next corner and there's hot air blowing at my feet now! When I finished the course, I noticed the mode was normal again and the heater was on full blast with the AC light on!!!
I immediately suspected user error. Did I hit one of the hvac buttons when I shifted to 3rd? Did I turned the car off and on before I left grid and change the mode to normal?
On my last run on Sat, I made sure everything was set correctly and made sure I didn't come close to touching the hvac buttons during my run. Same results. After my run, I noticed the information icon was on in the dash. Went to the info center and looked at the message. "Drive mode not selectable".
Thought about this a bit Sat night. The users manual has multiple mentions of the awd being disabled because of the rear diff heating up under harsh conditions. But the error they refer to never popped up on the screen.
I decided to cool the car down between my runs on Sun. No idling in grid, no AC on, water down the rear diff, intercooler, radiator and intake manifold between runs. Sunday conditions were exactly the same as Sat. 99 degrees on the display. No issues what so ever on Sunday. The drift mode worked nicely. Car rotates and even goes loose on the exit, but completely manageable.
The launch mode is glorious and works well if you have lots of time once you get to the line. It's a pain in the *** in real drag race or prosolo situation where you have limited time after you stage.
The car has to be stationary (staged) and the clutch all the way in for the TC mode to be turned on. The problem is, you have to go 3 levels deep in the menu to turn it on. You can cheat and go into the submenus before you go to the line, but you have 10 sec before it times out and pop you back out. Royal PITA!
As you can see in the picture, it is lifting the inside rear tire off the ground, even with the crappy tires. That could contribute to the rear diff heating up, not to mention the hit on traction coming out of the corner. A bigger front sway bar is needed.
I'll report more when I get some RE-71R's on the car.
Disclaimer: I still have a big cast on my right foot and can't modulate the pedals at all. You may have a different experience with the car's handling.
very, very interesting results. looks like 100 was pretty hot for the car, and probably relatively abnormal. that said, the system sounds finicky. what about hot temps makes the car's awd unhappy like that? sounds like it won't be a problem most of the time, but hopefully they iron out little things like that in future model years.
i bet any push he felt will be gone on re71rs, and that's decent factory camber.
regarding the break-in boost, did he mention what it was about the break-in? mileage? and if it were consistent after that? interesting that he noticed that defined of a difference before and after "break-in" but others haven't, at least yet.
i bet any push he felt will be gone on re71rs, and that's decent factory camber.
regarding the break-in boost, did he mention what it was about the break-in? mileage? and if it were consistent after that? interesting that he noticed that defined of a difference before and after "break-in" but others haven't, at least yet.
I think this is why I prefer to wait, and not pick up the initial first series RS… let them work out those "finicky" issues that exist. I've been a huge Focus fan for some time, and I run a supercharged SVT Focus, so an RS sounds like a blast!