You most likely just need to raise the knock threshold down there. I had the same problem and it seemed that no matter how much I lower the timing it persisted. Raising the knock threshold hold got rid of it. As long as it is not a lot of knock it is not worry some at such low load and rpm, I believe.

 

Make the transition smoother between 100-120 load. I had similar problems (knock at tip-in) with my previous tune, smoothing it out has helped a lot. You've got pm!

 

+1

 

Yeh i had a similar issue with tip-in knock, no matter what i did couldnt remove it esp in lower gears like 1st and 2nd, i had to lower the Knock Sum decay timer and increase the knock load threshold in the lower rpms,

Here is my current map @26psi

 

Here is mine. I am still experimenting on timing during spool and what not. Anyway...

 

the hell is with that block in the low load and higher rpm area?

 

lol I was playing with that at the drag strip. I found that when shifting my car would carry 38* timing all way into the 200+ load areas so I lowered it to match what it is normally at that point on my map at high load/rpm. I have it with only 38* in that section as well. So far I have not touched the 11 area except for at the track.

Looking at my map tracer it looks like I would have to change it in up a little to get rid of the rest of the high timing btwn gears. I am curious if it will help bring the boost back btwn gears.

Here it is normally

 

+100000 smooth the timing in low loads

thats the problem of knock in spooling
try this test: making a test of 1 log of 50% trhotle and aply progresive until get full boost and full throttle controling that the cars use a diferents interpolation of timing with the same map and probably you gona get 0 knock if thats occurs the problem is : you need smooth map, otherwise Wiseco piston (piston pin) sometimes. or Twin Plate cluths...

 

Ya the smoothing has def helped alot so far, I dont think I want to touch the knock sensor sensitivity because it seems like when it does get knock it causes more knock to occur as it goes up in rpm. Once I took care of the low load/rpm knock the higher load/rpm knock did not occur. Does that make sense? LoL

 

The reason for that block might be to try and get rid of shift knock, I believe that is the part of the map that the ecu references while shifting gears, I have seen a thread where people set the timing to -10 in that area to get sweet ricer flames while shifting lmao

 

I can see that. Slowly rolling on the throttle in that rpm range right after you let off is uhhh......yeah. I'll leave it at that.

 

I am not slowly rolling on to the throttle after switching gears. I am slow to shift though. It takes me roughly .6 to .8 of a second btwn 100% tps on my data logs. I tried lowering it help keep the turbo spooled btwn gears. I need to reduce a little more timing out in the 200 range to make it pretty smooth timing transition even when shifting. I never see that area in DD. I am going to keep testing it out at the drag strip vs the normal timing and see if I find any gain. If not I will use the normal timing in that area. I am not trying to shoot flames ect. Just trying to improve my 1/8th mi. times. I am trapping 91.6mph with a horrible 7.7-7.8 et.

 

use nlts the best way to get better 1/8 and u never loose boost with nlts just 2 o 4 psi

 

19psi peak - 17psi taper, mid 11 afr, intake/catback/tune are only mods, on ~92-93 octane.
TXS front pipe arrived today, so will be permanently installing wb02 and completing the tune.

 

why do you have the timing set so retarded in the 4000-7000 and 0-140 load range? there is no way i would want my car shooting flames.

ill post my map up later on when i get out of class, 26psi on stock turbo 11.6afr.