1. i was told to inspect it every time i change my oil. i also got a few extra filters just in case. to clean it i was told spray the filter with cleaner and then use pressurized air to blow it out. the two parts just unscrew and then the filter can be pulled out. here is an exploded view of mine


2. i have the forge rs and have had 0 problems with it so far. for set up i got lucky i just installed it and haven't touched it since. some people need to adjust the knob on top but like i said i didn't have to do anything.

 

can you buy extra filters from FP?? Also Would it be too much trouble to get a how to assemble that, don't want to fak it up. I'm gonna need to do mine in about 750 miles

 

ya i got them from fp for like 2 buck each. i dont know if they offer them on their site because im in texas and just drove to their shop to pick up my turbo. the pic shows how to assemble it. filter in the way its pointing then screw the smaller red piece into the lager one. oil is going from left to right. here is a quick paint picture

i think i have the bolts labeled correctly but i might have them switched. they are 2 different sizes so impossible to mess up

 

Okay so I dynoed today on Turbochargers.com Mustang Dyno

I put down 474 awhp and 470 awtq, I'll post up the sheet later

My stock BOV isn't holding my boost at all so as soon as my forge RS comes in I should be at/near/over 500 hopefully

 

that seems ridiculous low timing, 12* @ 7400RPM???
in my stock turbo meth set up I have 21* @ 7400RPM.
Maybe such low timing caused the pressure from such late combustion to press against the piston trying to push out, boom!!!

 

Could you run smaller injectors and do double-pumper set-up?

Correct me if I'm wrong

 

This is a great thread! I'll be adding my numbers to it soon. Got my red and supporting mods finally. I'm looking to install soon and take it somewhere for just a pump gas tune for now. I still haven't decided where to take it for the tune, but I'm hoping for 400whp on 93oct, probably 26psi.

 

I'm having some trouble getting the banjo bolt with the FP feed line to seal. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm wondering whether the supplied crush washer might be the wrong size. And then I noticed that in Nil's picture it appears that the inner crush washer isn't the supplied copper one?



Not sure if I'm just seeing things in this picture or what. Anyhow, just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue with getting it to seal there and whether they've used a different (wider) crush washer.

Thanks!

 

I did have some leaking issues too fyi... we tried some different crush washers & after tinker with it for a while I got it to seal up good.... it just takes a lil bit to sort it out

n

 

Well, last saturday was my first time at the track... but it was very sad, the Red is really impossible to launch at 5.6k rpm..., I lost my two races, well I learned by the hard way that I had to remove the oem launch control switch and launch at 7k rpm... right?

The red is incredible at 30psi, but with that crappy launch I cant win....

 

Good info on this thread. Ironic on how I strated it and went over to CBRD's BBK.

 

So quick question, you say the crush washer is leaking, I'm now about to do my first oil change with the red and I'm going to take the oil filter thing apart and check it out and clean it as well. Should I re-use the crush washer, buy a new one from lowes, or go through Forced performance for the new crush washer.


Also how much oil is going to be leaking out?? Are there any tips an tricks to unscrew it and keep it from making an oil mess everywhere??

 

+1, I have a line sitting at home. i will install it next month when i get home. Where to get washer? I know that the kit came with one. I assume those are the ones with issues?

 

Good question (on where to find a washer that works). I tried Lowes and Home Depot and they don't carry them. It is the FP-supplied washer that is leaking and from Nils' post I'm evidently not the first one to have this issue.

Can anyone here confirm that they got the FP one to seal? The amount that it leaks isn't enough to cause a gusher or anything, but after 5 minutes of test driving there is clearly oil forming on the top of the filter housing and it's not coming from the AN fittings. You can't really crank down that bolt without risking the threads in the head or snapping the banjo bolt, as the torque rating is only 12 ft-lbs.

EDIT: Took things apart and looked at this again tonight. The crush washer from FP appears identical to the stocker and the bolt is obviously the same diameter as well. What is different is the width of the seating surface on the fitting itself. It's much narrower than the stock oil line, so if the crush washer is even slightly off center relative to the fitting, then a leak forms because the overlap between the crush washer and the fitting itself is too narrow to seal. It was clear that mine was not centered the first time I installed it from the indentation in the washer. I recentered it and tightened it carefully, but I still have a leak, though perhaps less than before. It might be from re-using the crush washer. I can't see how a replacement washer would improve the situation unless it fit the bolt tighter, i.e., find a washer that fits the banjo bolt tighter than the stock one fits the stock bolt. Seems like that might be tough to find. I think the next thing I'll try is a fresh crush washer with extra care paid to centering the washer on the head/banjo fitting.

 

I know mine sealed but I didn't do the install myself