Haven't had much issues with anything I've put on the car...

Except for the Exedy Stage 1 Clutch kit. By far the worst clutch I have had. Engagement was hit or miss... and as it started to wear, the juddering was especially bad.

only other regret I had was switching out and selling my greddy counterweight shift knob (round one) for a ralliart silver knob. I really liked that greddy... (sigh)

 

Installed Demon Eyes On the side of projector instead of on top. Dont feel like neoprene the headlight to fix it

 

Not keeping my OEM parts!

 

For anyone who's done the braided clutch line would you recommend doing it and how hard is it. Did the restrictor pill and now the car feels great.

 

I kinda wish I never got my turbotimer/boost gauge

 

Ok here are some on different Evos I own

1. Doing Fire rings to the block...Machine shopped screwed it up and block started to crack around cyl wall.....got a bnib 85mm block from daytona mitsu

2. Doing exedy twin plate instead of QM....Exedy twin are too thin so wear quickly and I drag a lot....like over 100 passes in less than 6 months lol

3. Not doing a twin clutch right away reason mentioned above...and shifts are so much better

4. Doing a halltech 1500 too much wiring for high hp build

5. Running 888r for daily driver evo.....on launch its hard on drivetrain side wall are too hard

 

No regrets regarding mods here.


QM , best twin plate clutch, period. The street disks on these can hold almost anything you can throw at them, this is the one and only type of twin disk clutch I've been using since 2010( first guy in E.U), and only at the present setup it has given some slippage.


Always use mild compound on any semi-slicks on the road, even if where you live is of high temps most of the year. I'm running the same.



Fire rings are not needed, neither on the head nor the block, no matter the amount of power you will be running. The use of a good headgasket is enough.











Marios

 

Regret building a 2.4 and selling my 3076r kit. Stock block on the 3076r was a hell of a lot more reliable and I was able to drive my car more often than I was once I built the motor. Oh and using a manley turbo tuff crankshaft

 

Oh I used a manley forged crankshaft a few years ago for 750 whp...regret that one too

forgot about it....

Whats the best crankshaft for stroker? k1 billet?

 

OEM or Billet. My new motor I used an OEM crank with aluminum rods. Plus there are so many OEM cranks available cause we have tons of 4g64s in our junkyards out here. I can get a 100mm oem crank for $19 and two hours of my time. lol

 

If you wanna replace your brake rotors, go with slotted

 

Only major regret so far was on my '97 Talon TSi AWD ... installed an ACT 2600 clutch kit. Holy god that thing was unmanageable. I went through a master cylindar every 3 months or so.

 

Looking back as of today:

1. Swapping a larger turbo. Due to some bad luck and other issues it didn't last long. I feel like I wasted money and my lap times weren't really that much better than on my stock turbo. The car is so much more fun to drive now.

2. Buying a used transmission to use as-is. Nobody ever sells a perfect-working transmission LOL

3. Trying to build my own shortblock. I still have no idea what killed it, but it sure was fun trying.

4. Using any other clutch than an ACT HDSS. Everything else I tried just worked like crap and/or broke. After 17yrs of ACT usage, I should know better.

 

Biggest regret is thinking just because a guy has a supra in his shop that he knows how to build a evo, pay him dirt cheap to build my car "as far as labor is concerned" and then find out after 300miles that my car has crank walk. So i had to do the rebuild again, and re-buy pistons, crank etc that i just bought. Thank god the second time i had Espec Industries build it. NEVER BUY A BUILT MOTOR CAR UNLESS IT BUILT BY A REPUTABLE SHOP. "With documentation"

 

Drilled and slotted or just slotted?