Update since I last posted on this subject a few months ago.

I've hit 5000 miles and have very little grinding. I'm still running the same stuff that was in the trans when I bought it.

So it looks like these are the steps for how you deal with the trans on a new X:
1) don't shift slowly to try to baby the trans
2) wait for 5000 miles
3) ???
4) profit!



This.

How I would explain it for a 1-2 shift: I pull back on the lever and it easily comes out of gear. But then there's more resistance and the lever hangs up going into 2nd. When I feel that change in resistance I do nothing; I just continue to apply the same amount of pressure I used to pull the trans out of 1st. After a brief delay it goes into 2nd all by itself fairly smoothly. The delay is a fraction of a second.

 

My transmission was notchy, but never grinded. After changing the base bushings and the underhood bushings, and changing my transmission oil, notchiness went away. However, after installing a front motor mount, the notchiness is gone for me. I don't shift slowly either, I found that shifting slowly does make it more notchy and harder to get in gear. Also, I double clutch my upshifts until the transmission is warmed up. This helps alot.

 

ive got around 8k on my evo and just before winter i changed the tranny fluid over to amsoil syncromesh, removed the clutch restrictor pill, changed the base bushings, cable bushings, and the transmission arm bushing and my tranny shifts like butter absolutely no complaints.

 

My 2011 GSR seems to grind into 3rd when its cold or shifting at lower rpms. When you drive hard its fine. I checked in with my dealer as my car only have 250 miles on it (had it 4 days so far), They compared it to another brand new 2011 GSR and said it was fine. I am confused and a little annoyed, a 38k car shouldn't do that.

 

When I first got my car, there was minimal grinding from 1 to 2 when cold and after about 500 miles it went away. And when I got my SSP CMC V2 and Clutch Masters FX300(Stg 3), I believe I also used AMSoil Transfluid. Fell into gear SOOO much smoother. Unfortunately, the retainer clip on the SSP CMC V2 broke and had brake fluid spill inside my car.
After that, CMC was behaving poorly and getting into gear wasn't good either. I've rebleed the clutch and it became a lot better, now it has the grind from gear 1 to 2 when it's cold.
I think if I rebleed it a few more times, I should be good without grinding.

I would recommend rebleeding the clutch first, it's the cheapest and easiest way. If you run out of brake fluid, you can get a new bottle for like $5. If that doesn't seem to help your situation, might as well get trans fluid flush and put in some AMSOil, I think that's like $50?

I'd probably recommend doing those atleast, before the grinding or notchyness leads to bigger problems, it'll be costly if you had to switch out your clutch sooner because of the grind. Could save some money by doing simple things like rebleeding the clutch or putting in better trans fluid, or even better.. do both.

 

As far as all these "shifting techniques" it makes me laugh at how people drive to get it running smoothly. I'm not trying to say this in an offensive way, but I think when people are trying to figure out how to drive the X the "right way" it seems like there's too much thought into it.

I just let the car boost a little, probably 3.5k-4k and shift it at moderate speed?? to me it's just normally. If it's under vacuum still, shifting below 3-3.5k you'll most likely have to shift a bit slower, 'cause it seems like that's when revs hang more.

So.. I just shift normally when boost starts to kick in. I have a Stg 3 clutch right now, doesn't seem hard to drive it smoothly. But then again, I don't know how high people rev when they shift. But I think I've seen several posts saying, "It drives smooth when I drive it hard"

It's most likely 'cause it's in boost when you shift, and when you try to drive it softly, it's under vacuum which causes more rev hang, meaning it needs a longer pause in between shift.

 

That's exactly what I have been going through for the past 6 months...i couldn't be more dissatisfied with this car and mitsubishis pathetic excusefor a service dept.

 

Hey guys, i dont know if i should feel better because other people have the same problem or start thinking maybe the car has a manufacturing fault. I have been chalking the 'notchyness' with the car staying in the dealers lot for over a year. It's a 2010 evo x gsr and i was greedy about the $2000 rebate and plus it had the navi and body kit, plus i kinda like the lowered spoiler on this model. Long story short, i told the dealer about this but i havent been able to make it down there since im in CT and the closest dealer is in Long island NY. Now i'm thinking they are converting from a Saturn dealership to a Mitsu, should i even let these monkeys touch my car like that? my car has 3k miles now. I must say the notchyness has reduced significantly and sometimes it is non-existent. But! everytime i say it's running smooth the next time i drive it, its back. Now the sticker price was 39k on this car as it had the navi and body kit. Add the tax it's 42k. Then put the 7.49% interest rate it came out to almost 48k. Do i really deserve notchyness in the gears for that kinda price? I think mitsubishi should take notice of this problem and send people over who can take care of this from Mizushima, Japan and not some saturn guys who dont know jack about Japanese cars. And on top of this problem there was such a push to get the 10 year warranty i was almost harrased @ the dealership for that im glad i opted out.

 

Gentlemen, it could be worse

http://jalopnik.com/#!5792482/faulty...w-ford-mustang

 

Hmm I just picked up a 2011 GSR and I'm not having any 2-3 problems like a lot of people are having on here. The only issue I have is 1-2 where it doesn't even grind but when I'm going into 2nd, I feel like a notch or bump as I get into 2nd. Don't know what it is but I've felt the same thing in a few other x I've driven. Hoping once I do bushings, short shifter, and fluid it goes away.

 

UPDATE: I have 1700 miles now... And I just sort of avoid 3rd gear most of the time. I mostly just shift into 4th when driving around. The car grinds a little when going into 2nd under hard acceleration. Getting very annoyed.... looking at getting a different master cylinder or clutch or both. Please advise...

 

Going to 2nd then 3rd has a grind/clunk when cold. But when warm no issues. Someone said change fluid to redline fluid. Will do this in the next week as I just hit 18k and it's time to change. Not gonna use diaqueen because grinding/clunk issue and they want like $300 for it. Are they crazy?

 

used to have an evo8 rs and had the same problem the grinding but to tell you the truth guys i think this gearboxes are like this cause they are racedpreped gearboxes.

 

No grinding ever for me!

 

Has anyone had thier fluid looked at after a good amount of miles to make sure it is clean and the nothcyness isn't creating metal shavings anywhere?