Glad they arrived on time. Should take about 6-8 hours to remove the head and install them.

You install the studs by hand until they are tight. Do not use an allen head socket to tighten them down, install them by hand. Then reinstall the head with a fresh OEM headgasket. Make sure there is a clean block surface for the new headgasket. Then put the washers on and finish by installing the nuts. Tighten down the nuts to 60 ft/lbs using the sequence shown in the FSM.

 

OK that wont be so bad lets say if I did it without taking the head off to preserve the gasket and just take one bolt off at a time and after each bolt I take out out one in so it still maintains it seal. Can you do this or should I just remove the head anyways?

 

Some people will say that the one-by-one method is fine. I don't agree with this. My thought is that if you're gonna do it, do it right the first time and not have to worry about a leaking headgasket down the road.

 

ok looks like I will give it a shot I need to buy a head gasket, torque wrench etc... also do i need to remove the cam at all, or how do I set it back to the timing. I was more focused on the one by one method because it looks easier. I might stick with it because I heard some people had done it without any problems for over 2 years. Just tell me the basics of it or what you have done to get it off cleaned and make sure everything is good

 

Its not something one can explain in a post. If you haven't already download the fsm from senates thread in his sig that will tell you everything.

 

I'm interested in the responses to this. I'm about to change my timing belt and although I've got 03lances "paint" advice....I'm still curious what happens if the timing is off due to cam removal or whatever. You're one daring dude for attempting this...at least in my eyes. I wussed out and payed my mechanic like 400 bucks to replace my head gasket. Why didn't I just get my timing belt changed when I did this though? (insert blank stare here)

 

well im really tempted to do this the one by one method because i heard it works and you cant be scared to work on your car. I know they said mark it off that way you know where the timing is but let me try to find senates post

 

Yeah, I'm going to try and follow 11a-36 in the "senate" manuals, lol...but sometimes they say things that don't totally sink in with me. Hopefully when I get into it...I'll know. Things like "align each of the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks" will probably be apparent when I'm looking at it, but until then I'm just sort of wondering.

I think you are right by the way, you can't be scared to work on your car...but yeah, if the 1by1 has a chance to cause problems, you have to think it through. It may be worth the time and effort to do it right. Like senate said, don't want it to leak later and have to fix it anyways. Mine started leaking at about 50k too, so it's not unheard of for it to happen quick.

 

wait, was I reading as-backwards? Headbolts do the same job as head studs, right?

03 lances says in a few posts around this place to get all the oil out, and even use some compressed air...but in that fsm, it has a little picture of oil droplets and actually says to put a drop in there? Is that right?

 

its arp moly lube for the studs it helps secure the bolts tight. im just going to buy the head gasket and call it done next week

 

if you dont wanna go through the hassle of doing the timing I have done the one stud at a time method and its fine the car is still on the road and it was 4 years ago second car is my sisters eclipse gsx its still being driven and I did it in 2006

, make make make sure you do them in the same order as you would removing the head bolts for a gasket , as in start with the normal rotation , remove one bolt install one stud and tighten , if you guys happen to get hung up Pm me and I'll give ya my phone number so I can walk ya through it

any moly based lube is ok I do suggest using the arp lube

 

Yes it is very importent to get all the oil out. There is oil all around underneath that valve cover and if too much were to slip into the hole after you pull your stock headbolt you wont be able to thread the studs all the way down which could potenetially cause you to under torque them when you use the torque wrench. I have found compressed air works best you can just blow the crap out and be done, every hole I blew out had a descent amount of oil that came flying out.

 

ok awesome I would rather prefer the one by one method I dont think I can remember everything on how to put the head back on plus I dont have a lift. And if these seps arent right tell me this is what I hae been told in previous post, i will clean around the head stud first to make sure its dry, take out the stud, clean the threading, use the moly on the bottom of the screw, screw in the stud handtight, next use an allen wrench to tighten it down prety tight, grab a washer and a nut, apply moly to the nut, and tighten the nut down to 60 lbs of torque. And when installing everything I just follow this pic correct.

 

hey and one more thing because I cant find it and the search tool doesnt really help what is the spark plug part numbers we should use on a turbo lancer thats aparently 1 degree colder? and what kind of motor oil should I use on the turbo? Im currently running valvoline syn power full synthetic 5w-30 without any problems for over a a year and a half.

 

for plugs use plain ngk bkr7e's no iridium I believe the stock number is 4644 or the new number 3097 Im pretty sure .

you have everything thing correct except tightening the studs down, only snug them with the allen wrench they dont have to be super tight tighten finger tight and give'm a small nudge with the allen wrench to bottom them , also make sure theres no debris down in the hole before the stud goes in , Oh btw the fuel pumps going out 2day for ya if ya still want it pm me I got hung up at the garage