Tow Rigs, What do you have/use?
Keep in mind that longer frames tow better. For example, with raptors you can get identical trucks (same drivetrains, same bed, same brakes etc.) with the only difference being one is an extended cab and the other is a crew cab and since the crew cab is about a foot longer the tow capacity goes from 6k to 8k just because of the longer frame.
Depends on year, drivetrain and packages. But in short, if it's relatively new and has a tow package, then yes it will. Pretty much every standard full sized truck (with optional tow packages) will do 10-11k no problem. If you're only towing your car once or twice a month it's all you need.
Keep in mind that longer frames tow better. For example, with raptors you can get identical trucks (same drivetrains, same bed, same brakes etc.) with the only difference being one is an extended cab and the other is a crew cab and since the crew cab is about a foot longer the tow capacity goes from 6k to 8k just because of the longer frame.
Keep in mind that longer frames tow better. For example, with raptors you can get identical trucks (same drivetrains, same bed, same brakes etc.) with the only difference being one is an extended cab and the other is a crew cab and since the crew cab is about a foot longer the tow capacity goes from 6k to 8k just because of the longer frame.
Going from vegas to duck creek, my raptor gets 7 (SEVEN) mpg towing a 24ft enclosed with a rzr and gear in it. total trailer weight around 6k lbs. And I have to go easy on long hills as coolant gets over 235*.
Did the same trip in a friends 2016 Powerstroke with same trailer, in hotter ambient temps.. went 75 the whole way, no coolant temp issues, got 11.5mpg.
^Pretty much. Went the typical route, SUV - 1/2 ton Short bed regular cab v8 - 3/4 ton extended cab short bed diesel - long bed duelly. I'd honestly say it was the exact same 150% jump in tow quality between each upgrade. Genuine *wow* factor on my face each time. And you can't really beat the 3/4 diesel when it comes to aftermarket support. Although now is the time to get in on it before a lot of these emissions parts straight up disappear.
Rated to tow 10-11k and actually being about to maintain 60mph+ up most hills are too different things. Once you're towing over 5-6k lbs, especially with added drag of an enclosed, you should really have a diesel.
Going from vegas to duck creek, my raptor gets 7 (SEVEN) mpg towing a 24ft enclosed with a rzr and gear in it. total trailer weight around 6k lbs. And I have to go easy on long hills as coolant gets over 235*.
Did the same trip in a friends 2016 Powerstroke with same trailer, in hotter ambient temps.. went 75 the whole way, no coolant temp issues, got 11.5mpg.
Going from vegas to duck creek, my raptor gets 7 (SEVEN) mpg towing a 24ft enclosed with a rzr and gear in it. total trailer weight around 6k lbs. And I have to go easy on long hills as coolant gets over 235*.
Did the same trip in a friends 2016 Powerstroke with same trailer, in hotter ambient temps.. went 75 the whole way, no coolant temp issues, got 11.5mpg.
My 3.5 raptor gets 13-14 towing the same open setup through the fairly hilly areas of KY. I think the extra torque down low from turbos is what really improved towing for me going from one truck to the other.
The diesel premium is real and it's steep, if I was towing on a weekly basis all 52 weeks a year then I'd definitely be considering a diesel but I tow cars less than 10 times a year, it doesn't make much financial sense to me personally. I chose to buy a brand new truck that has no possible chance of ****head previous owners or questionable maintenance records which was more important to me than making life slightly easier for the infrequent times I tow each year.
I considered diesel, but I don't tow enough to justify the premium.
I mean, it's WAY more then I spend on gas. Waaaaaaay.
Even if I had an enclosed, not worth it.
Exactly as stated above. I tow 4-6x per year.
plus, my tow rig is a Toyota. Hard to beat that.
I mean, it's WAY more then I spend on gas. Waaaaaaay.
Even if I had an enclosed, not worth it.
Exactly as stated above. I tow 4-6x per year.
plus, my tow rig is a Toyota. Hard to beat that.
What about 1/2 ton desels like the baby Duamax? They get really good mpg empty as well. I’m considering consolidating my daily car and tow vehicle and someday will have to do my 50 mil roundtrip commute again.
Well, ya'll need to actually drive one whilst towing your rigs back to back to see I suppose. The turning, braking, taking off, emergency acceleration, emergency braking, MPG's, resale and actual annual costs ALL are Waaaayyyy better on a 3/4+ diesel platform. You DO pay for what you get. Just look at your Evo's lol.
It's like saying "could I go to the track with a stock block and a 35r with no other mods. Sure...you could.
The 1/2 duramax is pretty sweet for a daily, I also drove the Colorado with a tune and it was no slouch. Going for about 29ish now with low miles. Braking downhill with a 10k lb trailer brings the question back though. That and keeping an Allison 1000 is also worth it.
It's like saying "could I go to the track with a stock block and a 35r with no other mods. Sure...you could.
The 1/2 duramax is pretty sweet for a daily, I also drove the Colorado with a tune and it was no slouch. Going for about 29ish now with low miles. Braking downhill with a 10k lb trailer brings the question back though. That and keeping an Allison 1000 is also worth it.
Nice upgrade! Saw the crash post from Lucas, man that sucks but glad you guys made it out unscathed.
Sure doesn't look like that much damage but they probably weight the wholesale cost and payout cost vs cost to fix to determine that.
Sure doesn't look like that much damage but they probably weight the wholesale cost and payout cost vs cost to fix to determine that.
Frame is bent behind the front body (core support) mounts. Lots of damaged parts you can't see in the pics. I think the initial estimate to fix it was $25k. I'm getting paid what I paid for the truck 3yrs ago ($38k), so I'm happy. I got most of my suspension parts off of it, so I'll be able to recoupe about another $5k.
We were definitely lucky to not get hurt.
V8 noises are cool but I enjoy hearing turbos spool and on the 3.5 EB they spool pretty damn quick. 19-20 is definitely the one to get, the beadlocks are the best looking and the live valve suspension works well. Plus you can with the upper trim levels you can also look at CAN bus data (temps, pressures, AFRs etc.) directly on the gauge cluster which I think is neat.
I enjoy my truck even in stock form, all it's got is rear wheel well liners, some interior mods (dash mount, rear seat release strap) and a bed rack. At some point I may tune it and get an intercooler but I'm really not too concerned about getting more power in the truck. Other than some lighting upgrades I really only plan to get a Deaver spring pack and probably an SVC hydro bump kits some time in the future.
I'm just shy of a year with my gen 2 and am at about 20k miles with it already, hasn't skipped a beat yet. One thing to note, I would heavily suggest getting a Fumoto oil drain valve. The only nuisance working on the gen 2 over the gen 1 is the oil drain plug location. I threw in a Fumoto valve on my first oil change (which took a lot of patience and care to not spill oil everywhere) and now when I change the oil I just have to throw a hose on the valve outlet and it drains directly into my recycling container without making any sort of mess. Also, another reason to get a 19-20, they have metal oil pans instead of the leak prone plastic pans the 17s and most 18s got.
I enjoy my truck even in stock form, all it's got is rear wheel well liners, some interior mods (dash mount, rear seat release strap) and a bed rack. At some point I may tune it and get an intercooler but I'm really not too concerned about getting more power in the truck. Other than some lighting upgrades I really only plan to get a Deaver spring pack and probably an SVC hydro bump kits some time in the future.
I'm just shy of a year with my gen 2 and am at about 20k miles with it already, hasn't skipped a beat yet. One thing to note, I would heavily suggest getting a Fumoto oil drain valve. The only nuisance working on the gen 2 over the gen 1 is the oil drain plug location. I threw in a Fumoto valve on my first oil change (which took a lot of patience and care to not spill oil everywhere) and now when I change the oil I just have to throw a hose on the valve outlet and it drains directly into my recycling container without making any sort of mess. Also, another reason to get a 19-20, they have metal oil pans instead of the leak prone plastic pans the 17s and most 18s got.
FWIW, I've owned my 2017 Colorado Diesel for over a year now and have towed my Evo on a steel open trailer over half a dozen times now (been a light year for me but went to Packwood with it, towed over the Grapevine in CA twice, etc.) - love it as a daily and it tows pretty well for what it is. Factory trailer brake controller and exhaust brake is nice to have, plus 30+ mpg on the highway while not towing (going low 70s) is great. While towing, I typically average 20-21 mpg (typically towing at 60-62mph, CA speed limits for towing are 55mph) - my trailer + Evo weigh somewhere between 5k - 5.5k lbs.
