I'm not sure, just trying to find the major gaps between my car and a full spec STU MR

 

Same here!!

 

My X with heavy 10.5s, 265s, stock battery and stock seats came in at 3470 with fluids topped off.

Replace the seats, get lighter wheels, light battery and a GSR in STU trim should be in the mid to high 3300s.

I just order a budget NRG 301 Seat and planted seat base along with Side mounts. No sliders, hopefully my 6'6 body will not finally fit in the car like a normal person.

 

nope, evo's need to keep the AC in STU.

 

hmm.. then most of that would probably have to be in the seats.. which would take me to ~ 3,120 or so. I'm not gonna do seats, but that's still nearly a 100# gap? what else is there? I guess I don't have the lightest exhaust etc. i probably have 10-15#s of electrical that other cars don't have either though

 

There's some discussion of this in my old build thread starting at around post #340

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...l#post10681035

My best guess was around 3025-3030 with mods that I would actually do.

I was really close to a 5-speed swap (essentially package-converting the car to be an IX SE) but the guy decided to keep the transmission

I've gone the opposite way anyway and put a real battery in the car since I drive it so infrequently. I don't regret that

 

thanks, I'm going through everything now. I'm probably misreading, but you went from 3160 to 3085 with slightly less gas, new suspension, and SSR's?

Forgot I also have slotted rotors but I don't think they're particularly lightweight (DBA 5000 front, 4000 rear). Tanabe hollow FSB, etc. Ohlins with Swifts, etc.

Definitely have a heavier exhaust than I could, it's Buschur's SS with a huge *** magnaflow (not the one he offers, bigger than that), and I'm adding another resonator to replace a portion of the mid pipe.

I actually went opposite on the battery for the exact same reason - because I drive the car so infrequently, it's always on a trickle charger. Figure if it's always gonna be on a trickle might as well drop the weight. I had the Optima yellowtop, weighed in at 38lbs, and switched to the Shorai lithium iron (5lbs). That's 33 lbs right there, it's what I'm counting as getting me from 3200 to 3170. I did hear it's not good to jump the battery but shrug. I did have to move the negative battery ground to the bolt that holds the ECU case, does anyone see a problem with that? Took a bunch of pics here:

https://r56hs.com/2017/07/04/evo-lightweight-battery/

appreciate the info in that thread!

 

we went from the HKS carbon/TI exhaust to an aluminum one (DP back) and it was a good 25lbs savings.

cheap weight savings imo.

 

isn't it much louder than steel? buddy of mine had an aluminum exhaust.. we did not have good experiences with it

 

I kind of have an aluminum exhaust-- I have about 12" of aluminum after the cat, terminating right behind the driver. I had a full catback made of aluminum until it broke at a weld and I just left it. So now my "catback exhaust" weighs about one pound.

I don't have any real secrets to reveal, I've just focused on finding the lightest things possible-- 2.5 pound lithium battery, titanium strut tower bars, lightest exhaust manifold, lightest downpipe, minimum weight for seats, lightest two-piece rotors all around, lightest wheel spacers, etc.

 

Meant to respond to this.

I had my aluminum exhaust custom made so I sourced all the parts needed. To help sound I went with a slightly thicker wall of aluminum (I don't remember which one exactly but I recall it was one gauge or so thicker than the typical steel tubing), and I also incorporated two Vibrant aluminum race mufflers (which weigh something like 1 pound each).

I also originally incorporated a v-band axle-back with a third muffler (the car was my DD for a while so I wanted it quiet for young kids), which meant the two Vibrant mufflers were right by the axle. To avoid the axle and whatnot, the mufflers had to be slightly angled which meant they sat really close to the ground which was their undoing. They hit bumps somewhat regularly and finally one bump broke a weld and ripped off the exhaust in the middle of the freeway.

But until it broke, my car with a 100-cell cat, aluminum tubing and two Vibrant race mufflers (terminating at the rear axle) was quieter than my buddy's catless AMS catback exhaust (verified by sound readings at an AutoX).

 

I will give an update once installed, but the short story is that I am beyond belief fed up with the EVOX WL rear endlinks. The clunking and noises coming from them is driving me insane. I took them apart, tightened them, added washers, double nutted the studs and they still make noise so I decided to make my own using the Evo 9 write up. I changed the lenght of the shaft from 4inch to 3 inch after my measurements and kept everything else the same. I should have them in a couple of days and Ill provide an update regarding their fitment and noise. For those wondering this is what I ordered:

Pegasus Racing:

3068-06 3/8 inch Rod End Retaining Washer 4 4 2.39 $9.56
AN316-6-L AN316 Jam Nut, 3/8-24 Left Hand 2 2 0.69 $1.38
AN316-6-R AN316 Jam Nut, 3/8-24 Right Hand 2 2 0.49 $0.98

Item Total 11.92


McMaster Carr:

8419K24 Turnbuckle-Style Connecting Rod, 3/8"-24 Internal Thread, 3" Overall Length 2
$36.62

2458K141 Lubrication-Free Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Thread, Right-Hand 2
$11.34

2458K142 Lubrication-Free Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Thread, Left-Hand 2
$11.34

91286A252 High-Strength Grade 8 Steel Hex Head Screw, Zinc-Aluminum Coated, 3/8"-24 Thread Size, 2" Long, packs of 10 1
$6.49

97135A235 High-Strength Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, Grade 8, Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated, 3/8"-24 Thread Size, packs of 20 1
$4.02

98017A199 18-8 Stainless Steel Mil. Spec. Washer, Passivated, 3/8" Screw Size, NAS 1149-C0632R, packs of 100 1
$5.66
Merchandise $75.47

Hopefully this is silent and fits

 

Does anyone have a good solution for mounting a tablet for Solostorm?

I just stuff mine in the passenger seat then pull it out for viewing, but it'd be nice to have something more readily displayed so I and my co-driver can sit in the front seats and walk through data.

I was thinking of suction cupping to the passenger side of the windshield but I don't want to obstruct my view. I also want to make sure it's mounted solidly so bouncing doesn't skew the data-- there are a lot of mounting solutions which could suit my need for location, but not for solid mounting.

 

I've seen a few guys turn the double din area into a tablet holding area, though I don't know how well or not that would suit your needs

 

Have you checked this thread on RR&A?

Remember seeing something that would solve your problem!