Previous threads -

2021: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2020: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2019: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2018: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2017: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2016: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2015: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2014: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2013: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2012: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2011: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2010: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2009: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
2008: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...iscussion.html
Pre-2008: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...ep-thread.html

That is a lot of years. Thanks to all the folks who are still here (as opposed to trying to organize information on Facebook)

For me - it will be my first year autoxing my STU car on new tires since 2013. (My 2013 tires lasted into 2014 since I was busy becoming a dad, and then in 2015 I bought a used set (mistake) which I still have even though they are hockey pucks.)

I am super looking forward to having a car that's caught up with the allowances and hoping to have enough time to dial it in that I can do a tour or a pro or something and not get embarrassed. But we shall see.

Next big thing is whether there are any new contenders in the ST tire category this year and what's going to be available in 285-30-18 for the folks running square.

 

Thanks for creating this thread, John!

 

Is there anything I need to know about rolling fenders? I'm going to have an actual body shop do it (I had a race prep shop do it on my IS300 and the results were.. not good). I assume it's

* roll the rear inner fender lips as flat as you can get them without them falling off
* roll the front inner fender lips as much as you can while sort-of trying to keep the fender liners on, but with the expectation that the fender liners are gonna be sketchy from here on out

If anyone has any good photos of the inside of their fenders it would be appreciated.

 

Rolling the quarter panel is always a hit or miss with a shop. The guy needs to be experienced enough to roll the fender without pushing out the back half. IMO, letting them cut the lip away is better since that will not warp and creates clearance.

 

i think it would be legal to cut scrape enough to thin the metal, then fold it. not sure if theres a dremel attachment for that type of precision cut scrape

 

We dont have to guess whats legal, the rules clearly state it.

 

Right. its not *cutting* but 'creasing' to accommodate for the rolling of that metal. I think with determination you can add the crease by scraping a sharp cold chisel. You'd still need to do the whole heat and roller process but with less resistance and pressure that would lead to eventually deforming the fender

I edited the previous post "cut scrape"

 

Ahh, you mean just to help make the fold. Definitely different than straight cutting. Probably not a bad idea to help get the fold but have to be careful the aluminum doesnt tear when bending.

 

yes the tearing is another issue and maybe heat is the only thing that can help avoid that. I'm not lucky with heat

 

I have rolled all 4 fenders on my Evo and done the job on other Evos. The fender rollers are available on multiple sites for a decent price. I would recommend an Eastwood fender roller clone. Then a basic heat gun to heat it up before rolling. The key is rolling it slowly. This will prevent it from warping the rear panel edges. Ideally just roll it until it clears and don't try to make it flat.The aluminum fenders will be easy to roll just push the tabs back as needed and work the edge in. The fender roller works best on the rear quarter panels. It pushes back on the front fenders to the point where they flex out of the way.

 

^- I like my car too much to DIY. I'm definitely having a body shop do it to minimize the pain/damage/etc.

Another question about fitting the big tires. I currently have Moton ClubSports w/ 700/900 springs. In the front at least, the springs are 7" with a helper (and a coupler in between). On the Motons there are multiple brackets where the bolt goes through the strut depending on how much camber you want at the hub vs at the plate, and I did end up needing to get a little more at the hub ( https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...-question.html )

Has anyone had to go to shorter springs for tire clearance?

 

Absolutely. I ran 6" springs with the Ohlin DFVs to get the perch above the tire. Thats 15+ mm of inboard clearance. The Flags I cant do that but still run the 6" springs (800 front).

 

Ah - thank you! Another knob to tweak.

For anyone else following here are some good threads I've found on the subject (also featuring a lot of Dallas J)
* https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...05x-18x10.html
* https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...-will-fit.html
* https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...pf01-ct9a.html

I don't have tires yet but I can at least mock it and see how bad it is now. And then order springs...

 

Don't forget this thread:
275 35R18 Slick on NT03 10.5 stock body Evo - EvolutionM - Mitsubishi Lancer and Lancer Evolution Community

 

Indeed - running 6" springs up front is a must if you want to stuff some meat up front!