Bryan,
It sounds like you figured it out. Although a theory it seems to fit the data and the flow requirements at WOT with E80+ is enormous. If you saw that lean spike right before the big boom then there you have it. It is tough modifying these things because one change has a ripple effect and it is hard to work out all the wrinkles. Thanks for sharing all this info/data so we can learn.

~Jaraxle

 

After creating a spreadsheet for a performance build and seeing the total, I'm having stupid thoughts of just getting a OEM crate motor for 5k, dropping it in and not tracking the stupid car anymore.

Somebody talk me out of this responsible sounding idea...

 

Yes, my 9, very mild compared to most of your setups will sputter and starve with anything 1/4 tank or less on track. At Fontana, which has high speed nascar left handers, it becomes very clear very fast. Just a 255, but I also have a modified oil pan to help combat it with the baffles. I haven't tested if the baffles actually make a difference, because I never leave the pits with less than 1/2 tank now.

Laguna Seca doesn't seem to do that, but I still live by the 1/2 tank rule.

(running 91)

 

Presumably you can reuse most bolt-ons, so how about crate motor + rod/piston swap? Finish fuel system mods (ditch in-tank W255 for W450), add any needed oiling mods, and done? If still too much, then new racing hobby.

 

Did you get the motor apart? What all did it need?


If your core is good (which it should be since the head gasket didn't let go), A short block from English is only $3,625. If you built the SB yourself, you could probably save over $500. As long as the head is fixable, I don't see why this can't be fixed for around $4k with just replacing whats needed. No head porting, cam upgrades, etc..



I **think** he said his in tank pump is stock, which I suspect is why he was able to drain the surge tank..

 

Same mindset I went through when my motor tanked. I kept the same turbo I had
and built the motor with the MAP crate unit, which at the time was the best deal. Even Mike said he couldn't approach the cost.

We both know my turbo should have upgraded but I still had allot of fun until I saw different priorities needed alignment in my life.

If you can get a crate motor with upgraded internals then finish fueling needs as Mr. Fred advised I think for now it would be the best approach.

 

$4k? I wish man...

Stuff adds up super quick.

The ER short block is $3,625 plus a core, so put in shipping of the core and also the short block back. Labor to take out, put in, as I don't have shop labor hook up anymore.

The real damage is most likely the head so $900 core (worst case) pus $1,350 head rebuild, plus shipping and labor.

Adds up REAL quick.

Here is my list so far:

Total of that is $8,541.42 and that is BEFORE labor, shipping and taxes. Easy $10,000 with those things.

This is hoping that the turbo turbine isn't destroyed from the shrapnel....

OEM long block is $5,000 before shipping and it includes clutch (save $1k from above) and turbo and labor would most likely be less as it's an easier swap. So maybe $6k at the best?

That said, do I really want to plop down $6k and still have an OEM engine and OEM clutch?

 

Wow that damage is worse than I thought. Sorry to hear about this buddy. If and when you rebuild the car would you still track it? or get something else to have fun with?

 

The ER short block comes with a head gasket.


With the failure mode of the motor, I would get an oil analysis done, its a good bet you won't find a lot of excess metal in it, and it's likely you won't need an oil pump or oil pan (I would still do a cooler). I'm sure you could find a used good head for less than $1k.

And not to bash ER, but $1,350 for the head refresh is steep. I know the machine shop they use does a nice radius valve job, but you have about $420 in valves/seals, and any machine shop can rebuild the head and surface it for $300-400. You pay a premium at ER because they're a race shop.

And you still need to take your head off to see if it's useable. Judging by the piston, it looks like it will be able to be cleaned up.

First try on ebay, $850...You could ge thtis head, and have a local machine shop rebuild it with your choice of valve springs and save well over $500 from your above estimate. You don't "need" aftermarket valves. http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-15-MITSUB...ZXJX~R&vxp=mtr


And this wouldn't be a terrible time to build your first motor. They're not that hard.

 

Sweet, I save $60!

Right, I won't really know for sure the financial outlay until the head comes off. I'm getting the money together before anything happens so the car doesn't sit at a shop for months.

I neither have the time, nor the tools, nor the space to do that.

Part of me wants me to be patient and build the motor right even if it costs $10k and part of me just wants to throw in the towel and put in a OEM motor. Story of my life.

 

I would make time. Even one day a week with slow progress is worth saving $3k in labor. Space is hard to make though. And the tools you would need aren't that expensive (torque wrench, micrometer, snap bore gauge). Would still save you money.

 

I meant be patient and get the cash together and then go all in. I don't want to put any of this on credit. I'd usually have the cash reserve but I had a couple things happen this year that depleted it. Great timing!

I really don't have the time, space or tools for building the motor myself. I'm not making that up. I think you also forgot about the engine stand, engine hoist, etc...

Speaking of great timing, my Fiesta lease is up end of June....

 

Hoist and stand off craigslist, <$200. I just looked them up here in Vegas...lol. How do you have time for track days (and get the car setup for said track days) if you don't have time for the motor? You have a house or an apartment? I'm not trying to be an ***, I'm just wondering..

 

I get the car ready for track days by putting in a couple hours over a weekend or two. Usually that just means swapping wheels and brake pads. Most of the time I don't have to get anything ready and I just drive there.

I had the car basically where I just had to swap wheels and pads. Had being the key term.

If I *REALLY* wanted to I could find the time to build a motor, but I have other priorities in life currently and honestly, I don't have interest in building a motor. My big mechanical efforts are in the past.

I actually hate working on cars now. I'd gladly pay others to do the large things.

I live in a house.

 

Best way to deal with cars.

Where you planning on buying it out?