I had an electrical engineer guy rewire my line. He decided to move the resister pack to the trunk to make it easier. Made a heat sink plate for the resister pack but its still at 220°. Is this normal temperature for the resister pack when its in the engine bay? I might move it outside the car for better ventilation, maybe where the evap canister is behind the driver rear wheel, since I already removed the canister.

 

Yeah, it will get hot, and some airflow is desirable, but my thought is that this location has gotta be at least as good as having it in the engine bay where the air temperature is routinely 130F. Have him install a couple of little fans on it if you are worried.

 

This is my next mod,pump already brought and just waiting on new cradle.
Thank you for the nice/straight forward write up,it surely doesn't look too complicated and hopefully I don't come across any.
Will be using this post as my guide that's for sure.

 

i took a 3 hours trip and brought a few jugs of e85 in the trunk. was worried the cans might leak and vapor gets out and ignite.

 

I doubt it gets that hot.

 

the relays can generate sparks?

 

Yes they can and do every time they switch from closed to open. If you are worried, seal them with some RTV.

 

When I travel with fuel jugs, they go in the back seat. Secured of course. Drive with the a/c on fresh air (not recycle) and crack one of the rear windows. I never smell fuel. I don't like the idea of fuel jugs being in the trunk, there's no real ventilation...

 

yeah, the no ventilation is what scares me. although there are two vent flaps in the trunk area to pull fresh air from the inside the car. i also leave one window cracked.

 

Do you get fuel smell? The jugs I use are very well sealed. Even when they are in the back seat, I never smell anything even if the windows are rolled up. At any rate, I think the vapor quantity needs to be pretty high to be ignitable. Bigger concern might be a car accident.

 

i use VP jugs, they are sealed very well for the most part. just worried i might forget to tighten the vent cap.

 

so i followed this guide to the t- and now my car won't start . still on stock wiring (have the hard wire kit- just haven't hooked it up yet). anyone else have issues w/ the car starting after installing this pump? i can't even hear the pump priming so i'm thinking maybe my soldering was so ****ty (too much solder?) that it created too much resistance on one of the connections?

 

i had same issues when i first installed the pump on stock wiring. turns out one of the seal didn't seat correctly, so the injectors wasn't getting enough pressure. the car sounded like it wanted to run but didn't.

 

thanks for the reply- i'll take the pump out and re-check all the seals- however shouldn't i hear the pump at least trying to prime?

 

i dont remember hearing the pump prime when you turn on the ignition, that was the first thing i looked for when i was troubleshooting.

it as this seal that was loose in mine.