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Evo X Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain Everything from engine builds to the best clutch and flywheel.
View Poll Results: EVO X Transmission Problem POLL
Notchy, grinding, or difficult to engage gears (all the time)
689
40.08%
Notchy, grinding, or difficult to engage gears (only when car is cold)
646
37.58%
Difficult to engage Reverse gear (cold or warm)
146
8.49%
No problems at all
238
13.85%
Voters: 1719. You may not vote on this poll

The official Evo X notchy/grinding transmission thread

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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 12:17 AM
  #331  
runovr 33's Avatar
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From: ovr the rainbow
Originally Posted by STi2EvoX
Royal purple is garbage bro, no offense. If you look at performance comparison tests, royal purple shears out of grade quicker than almost anything. It's terrible oil, and I would strongly consider switching to amsoil or going back to the factory fluid. Now, this billet selector fork, on the other hand, I am very interested in. Where do you buy this from? Difficulty to install? Where is this part located on the X, and what is changed with this new billet unit to alleviate the problem? Thanks for any info.
so you've done chemical testting on it we get 30 +race hours on them before well pull them down also 1/3rd of a tube of moly bond oil ways are a lot better in this box than the 8&9's
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 12:38 PM
  #332  
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Originally Posted by runovr 33
so you've done chemical testting on it we get 30 +race hours on them before well pull them down also 1/3rd of a tube of moly bond oil ways are a lot better in this box than the 8&9's

OK... If you are putting something else in there, it is no longer Royal Purple...

If you need an additive, you just need a better Fluid/Oil.

http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2457GearLube.pdf


Doc
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 12:57 PM
  #333  
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Originally Posted by runovr 33
so you've done chemical testting on it we get 30 +race hours on them before well pull them down also 1/3rd of a tube of moly bond oil ways are a lot better in this box than the 8&9's
Dude, read the test in the link supplied by doc. I am only trying to help you. Royal Purple uses cheap quality base stocks and additives, and shears out of grade quicker than almost any oil on the market. Just read the results of the test, they will say more than I ever could.
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 01:27 PM
  #334  
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yeh i got the same problem in my x gsr notchy from 1-2 and sometimes 2-3 i just slowly put it in gear and it clicks in better but sometimes you just wanna shift alot faster none the less its definately a problem
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #335  
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From: Maryville, TN
Originally Posted by STi2EvoX
Dude, read the test in the link supplied by doc. I am only trying to help you. Royal Purple uses cheap quality base stocks and additives, and shears out of grade quicker than almost any oil on the market. Just read the results of the test, they will say more than I ever could.

It is true that RP is not all it's cracked up to be.. Much the reason you have to add things to it... But Hey, works great... LOL

No different than people hooked on Redline Heavy Shockproof... By Redlines own admission, the Polymers Centrifuge out. According to Redline, they "recombine".

FIRST, If they centrifuge out, what good are they ???... SECOND: I'd like to know when they recombine ? When Components have been torn down, the Polymers have been found in the cracks and crevices.. Great Marketing on Redlines Part. Sell an inferior product and claim it is "Suppose" to do that.

Doc
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 09:06 PM
  #336  
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i have redline. problem solved
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 12:18 AM
  #337  
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From: ovr the rainbow
Originally Posted by Oil Doc
It is true that RP is not all it's cracked up to be.. Much the reason you have to add things to it... But Hey, works great... LOL

No different than people hooked on Redline Heavy Shockproof... By Redlines own admission, the Polymers Centrifuge out. According to Redline, they "recombine".

FIRST, If they centrifuge out, what good are they ???... SECOND: I'd like to know when they recombine ? When Components have been torn down, the Polymers have been found in the cracks and crevices.. Great Marketing on Redlines Part. Sell an inferior product and claim it is "Suppose" to do that.

Doc
the prob with rdline is the lead content it blocks the oil ways in the 8&9 gerbox's we can just about flat change our 8 gearbox's with the mix of oil and molly & the box's last. the x's seem to be the same at the time been the forks make a massive change to shifting all three cars have have them now done 5 full days of testing bar the one with a turbo failure
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 12:32 AM
  #338  
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From: ovr the rainbow
Originally Posted by Oil Doc
OK... If you are putting something else in there, it is no longer Royal Purple...

If you need an additive, you just need a better Fluid/Oil.

http://www.bestoil4you.com/files/g2457GearLube.pdf


Doc
interesting read thankyou i'll look in to it; but a bit hard 2 r&d it be for a 12hr race but will give it a go after the the big one
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 05:46 AM
  #339  
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Originally Posted by runovr 33
interesting read thankyou i'll look in to it; but a bit hard 2 r&d it be for a 12hr race but will give it a go after the the big one

Just keep my contact info handy.. Thanks


Doc
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 11:20 AM
  #340  
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From: kaneohe bay, Hi
i have an evo x with 8k miles on it. i havent seen anyone post on my issue yet.

i never have grinding issues going 1-2 or 2-3, but there are times when 1st or Reverse simply WILL NOT engage. this is frustrating as hell, especially when stopped at a light and everyone takes off but i cant get into 1st. it feels like it wants to go in, but almost like i'm pushing against rubber. (could getting aftermarket shifter bushings fix this?)

typically, i shift around in the gearbox and it will eventually let me go in. sometimes it takes longer than others.

does anyone know a solution to this, or have the same problem?
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 08:29 AM
  #341  
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Originally Posted by aviators
i have an evo x with 8k miles on it. i havent seen anyone post on my issue yet.

i never have grinding issues going 1-2 or 2-3, but there are times when 1st or Reverse simply WILL NOT engage. this is frustrating as hell, especially when stopped at a light and everyone takes off but i cant get into 1st. it feels like it wants to go in, but almost like i'm pushing against rubber. (could getting aftermarket shifter bushings fix this?)

typically, i shift around in the gearbox and it will eventually let me go in. sometimes it takes longer than others.

does anyone know a solution to this, or have the same problem?
This happens to me once in a while. Everyone takes off at the light and I'm stuck trying to get the car in 1st. The only thing that you can do is put it back in nuetral, release the clutch, then try again. It will go in the second time.
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 09:35 AM
  #342  
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Just release the clutch slightly.. the gears will align and should slip right in..

Then go change the fluid...

Doc
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 08:55 AM
  #343  
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Ok, I've got an update and it's a little wierd. First, a little background. Compared to the day I got it, my tranny has definitely loosened up a little bit once it's warmed up. It used to be notchy cold or warm, now it's just when cold. But, something strange has happened and I don't understand it. I just got my car custom tuned with ecutek and ever since then, the tranny has been night and day smoother. This makes no sense to me, and I know that everyone is just going to say that it's a placebo, or that I've just gotten used to it but it's not that.

Allow me to explain in detail. I learned very early on how to avoid the "crunch." The trick, I found, (once the car is warmed up, of course) is to shift the car firmly and quickly and it will drop in with no drama. Shift it at a more leisurely pace and it crunches. So, after my tune I noticed that when I was shifting with my usual firmness that it felt softer, as if it were just falling into gear. I thought this was strange, and became curious. I then started to shift slower, in a way that would always make the tranny crunch before and now... smooth as a baby's bottom. I mean don't get me wrong, it still will notch when it's cold, but once it's warmed up it's pretty much gone completely. I don't get it. Anyone have any ideas?
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 05:23 PM
  #344  
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well has anyone have it pop out of reverse back into neutral? Its happened to me twice when I thought it was in reverse on a cold start. Also when it was popping back to neutral it made griding sound.... Now I make SURE the gear is in reverse b4 I let my clutch out!
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 05:39 PM
  #345  
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My notchy tranny is gone...

About a week ago I took my car out for two runs and ripped through the gears HARD. Before this my tranny was notchy as hell cold and warm. Now it shifts like I'm cutting through butter and it's a night and day difference.

I waited about a week to post this to see if it was some how temporary but it's not. The weather has been from about 20 to 40 so it's been cold and my shifts are smooth now. Moral of this lesson: try to rip through your gears hard a few times and see if it helps. It's almost like I had to break in the tranny and "knock the new off" 1800 miles.
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