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02 Lancer ES Turbo Project

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Old Jul 28, 2010, 04:09 PM
  #781  
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Originally Posted by RoadSpike
If it goes lean with the foot off the throttle that actually may be perfectly normal. The car ecu is developed to shut off injectors with decelleration periods of no throttle input.
Well when it leans out the engine kind of dies and it died on me earlier I'm not sure what I need to change to keep it from dying
Old Jul 28, 2010, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by steven121
Well when it leans out the engine kind of dies and it died on me earlier I'm not sure what I need to change to keep it from dying
Take a log of it.

I suspect maf scaling and compensation for this kind of weirdness.
Old Jul 28, 2010, 05:30 PM
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Old Jul 28, 2010, 05:34 PM
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I will use 03 lances maf compensation and scaling and see if that let's me drive without leaning out . With his tune I was able to drive the car back and forth to work. I will see in about 20 mins and post up some logs from mitsulogger
Old Jul 28, 2010, 07:05 PM
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Sucess!!! I fixed the maf scaling and maf smoothing, even though i still dont know what those are lol, but I took the car up to the gas station and back and it runs great. Boosted once and heard the BOV go off, but then it hesitated a little bit because it was running rich. but I can drive the car normal but cant haul it yet. it seems like when I get close to boost levels it runs 10.0 or lower afrs and hesitates and when i let go of the gas it idles back to normal.

Had a few lean issues but im going to assume that the pump wasnt catching the fuel, I did have a little under a quarter so this friday I will fill it up and see if I run lean. But other than that car is good. Im about to check my logs I did back and forth to the gas station and see if I have any knocks. I will post them up here as well. What do I need to do to go into boost levels? I got up to maybe 1 psi at the most.

here are my logs and let me know whats up
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Old Jul 28, 2010, 08:39 PM
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Its exciting huh? Knowing your getting closer and closer, keep it up bro its hella confusing in the beginning but little by little you figure it out.
Old Jul 28, 2010, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 03lances
Its exciting huh? Knowing your getting closer and closer, keep it up bro its hella confusing in the beginning but little by little you figure it out.
man I just want to start boosting lol, I didnt know the BOV was that loud lol. im using a rom that I obtained a while back, im about to use the high octane and high octane ignition and see if that does anything which I hope, I think since my car is running pretty good im about to start leaning out the high octane map and see where that takes me then im going to have to check into the ignition timing. after watching those vids im kinda understanding but not fully. He doesnt really explain what is what in the ecu he. Can anyone give me definitions and how these maps work?

High Octane fuel map
low octane fuel map
High Octane Ignition map 1
low octane ignition map 1
open loop load #1
open loop load #2
Open loop Throttle low load
open loop throttle high load
Maf Scaling
Maf Smoothing


Or if theres a thread with these deffinitions please let me know.

if I know what and how these work that will make tuning for me alot easier
Old Jul 28, 2010, 11:30 PM
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First lets start off with what is high and low octane from the ECU's perspective.

The car itself has no sensor to tell it when the gas you put into the car is not adequate. So it relies on the knock sensor to tell it when there is an issue. As you may have guessed by now the low octane map is really a safety map designed for the worst possible gas in the car.

This means low AFR's, low timing, and low boost if it is controlled.

What the computer does is listen to the knock sensor and if events happen rapidly the octane rating which starts at 100 goes down. The computer interpolates the high octane (good fuel) map with the low octane map as the octane number drops. Think of it as a percentage between the two maps as the octane number drops the timing is shifted toward the low octane map.

This is one of the many reasons you should never make your high and low octane maps the same. You want a safety system built into the ecu to take over in bad situations. If you don't have a timing difference the computer has to rely on the knock sensor to pull timing entirely, not as effective at keeping your motor alive.

I've explained open loop settings before go back and read them in this thread.

The maf scaling is simple as well its simply what did the maf sensor read and assigns its a load value. So if you have essentially too much fuel in an area you could either lower the load with the maf scaling map or use the compensation map to remove fuel.

The compensation map is simply here's a maf reading and we are going to multiply the amount of fuel given by this number which is x/128. So its a percentage number where 128 is essentially 100% or 1.0. This allows you to add fuel or subtract fuel without messing with timing. Ideal for setups where you like the load curve but the fuel is out of whack.

Your scenario of fuel being too rich when you let off the gas and heard the BOV sounds to me like you vented the BOV to atmosphere. It should be recirculated or it will not meter air correctly. If you want to use a BOV that vents to atmosphere you should consider speed density.
Old Jul 28, 2010, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by steven121
man I just want to start boosting lol, I didnt know the BOV was that loud lol. im using a rom that I obtained a while back, im about to use the high octane and high octane ignition and see if that does anything which I hope, I think since my car is running pretty good im about to start leaning out the high octane map and see where that takes me then im going to have to check into the ignition timing. after watching those vids im kinda understanding but not fully. He doesnt really explain what is what in the ecu he. Can anyone give me definitions and how these maps work?

High Octane fuel mapThis is the fuel map the ecu uses at all times unless you hit a predetermined knock threschold
low octane fuel mapThe ecu begins to interpolate between the high octane map and this one after you start hitting the knock threschold
High Octane Ignition map 1This is the timing map the ecu uses at all times until you hit the predetermined knock threschold
low octane ignition map 1Same routine as above
open loop load #1
open loop load #2I am not 100% sure how these work so instead of possibly giving you the wrong info I will say nothing
Open loop Throttle low load
open loop throttle high loadThese two tables control the amount of throttle you have to give before going into open loop at a given rpm, as far as what the ecu considers high load and low load I am not certain
Maf Scaling this controls how much air the ecu thinks its seeing at any given load, you have to log airflow in hz (at least in evoscan) to see where those numbers are relative to load. If you raise the number in any cell in the right column, then at that load range you have just told the ecu its getting more air which means it will add more fuel
Maf Smoothing I have not messed with this one personally I have left it stock


Or if theres a thread with these deffinitions please let me know.

if I know what and how these work that will make tuning for me alot easier
Basically with the exception of the ignition maps all the others are simply put to control fuel flow in some form or another.
Old Jul 28, 2010, 11:40 PM
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Here's a guide for you guys. Its got more evo related info than base lancer but the acronyms and tuning concepts are the same for these or any car.

http://evoecu.logic.net/mirror/merli...UIDE-V1.7a.pdf
Old Jul 29, 2010, 07:03 AM
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now that roadspike mentioned it i also think your bov is not connected to your intake, which is the reason your car is dying, i had this happen long ago and it cause erratic afrs and sometimes made the car die when i stopped. so i would check your bov and reconnect it to the intake and it should fix your problem

Last edited by link62; Jul 29, 2010 at 07:06 AM.
Old Jul 29, 2010, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by link62
now that roadspike mentioned it i also think your bov is not connected to your intake, which is the reason your car is dying, i had this happen long ago and it cause erratic afrs and sometimes made the car die when i stopped. so i would check your bov and reconnect it to the intake and it should fix your problem
yeah because my car died today when I was driving? my afrs were fine whne idling but when I came to a stop my afrs ran rich to 10.0 and caused my car to idle wierd, like it idles up, and it idles down? Not sure why. I'll secure all the hoses today and see if thats the problem.

I think I need a new battery... my car keeps dying, because if it was my alternator wouldnt the car die anyways.
Old Jul 29, 2010, 09:30 AM
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where can I get some t-clamps to? If its a boost leak then something aint right,

when I get to boost levels my car runs rich, would that be a tune issue, or a leak issue? Or possibly both? I made sure that everything was tighten down.
Old Jul 29, 2010, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by steven121
where can I get some t-clamps to? If its a boost leak then something aint right,

when I get to boost levels my car runs rich, would that be a tune issue, or a leak issue? Or possibly both? I made sure that everything was tighten down.
You should test for leaks not just tighten clamps.

T bolt clamps can be bought at napa.
Old Jul 29, 2010, 10:18 AM
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I made a boost leak tester using this guide it works mint for me and I found a good size leak using it

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...er-5-02-a.html

Or there is this one which cost more but is easier to use. I plan on making one of these soon just to have

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-detector.html

Last edited by 03lances; Jul 29, 2010 at 10:27 AM.


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