"Project Hard Park"
Jul 24, 2016, 02:52 AM
#76
Evolved Member
Question for anyone whos reading. Ive been installing everything dry except blue serviceable thread locker. Logic is ant-seize would heat up and melt or burn due to brake heat. Specifically hub to knucle and half-shaft to hub.
Car will never be a daily and is in a garage 24x7. No winters etc.
Any thoughts?
Car will never be a daily and is in a garage 24x7. No winters etc.
Any thoughts?
Jul 25, 2016, 08:51 AM
#77
Stay cool my friend! I put in a Mitsubishi (yay Mitsu lol!) minisplit heat pump in my garage to heat it in the winter didnt really care about the AC but I must admit now when I go in there I crank the AC and am loving life, lol!
Anyway, just saw your comment about using antiseize. As someone who drives his car in the winter I religiously use antiseize on everything unless its something that needs threadlocker. I make a mess with it but I tell you first time doing my wheel bearings sucked to get it apart but now them literally fall apart. I see you're in Chicago so I'd do everything in my power to make things easier down the road.
Anyway, just saw your comment about using antiseize. As someone who drives his car in the winter I religiously use antiseize on everything unless its something that needs threadlocker. I make a mess with it but I tell you first time doing my wheel bearings sucked to get it apart but now them literally fall apart. I see you're in Chicago so I'd do everything in my power to make things easier down the road.
The following users liked this post:
deylag (Aug 6, 2016)
Jul 30, 2016, 10:09 AM
#79
Great progress. This might be the kick in the *** I need to order the final round of parts and start putting my car back together. Watching what's basically a twin car go back together makes me wish this was my thread. I'm also upgrading to 18x10.5 NT03s except I'll be adding 285/30 A7s.
Jul 31, 2016, 05:23 PM
#84
Wont know until alignment, but I'm not going to slam the car for any kind of visual goal. Just want it to be functionally as low as possible. I don't think its possible to get wild camber even maxed out with stock arms and eccentric bolt. Once its good enough to put down on its own weight I'll trailer it to get corner balanced and race aligned. Thinking something like the following but I need to research some more:
Max front caster possible
-3 camber up front
-2.2 in the rear
Zero toe all around
I got rear c/o installed. Good clearance to the wheel/tire from what I can see.
I have a lot of little stuff to do now. Like putting rear drum brakes back together, wheel speed sensors, rear sway-bar, new bolts/gaskets for exhaust(old ones rusted out) etc.
Max front caster possible
-3 camber up front
-2.2 in the rear
Zero toe all around
I got rear c/o installed. Good clearance to the wheel/tire from what I can see.
I have a lot of little stuff to do now. Like putting rear drum brakes back together, wheel speed sensors, rear sway-bar, new bolts/gaskets for exhaust(old ones rusted out) etc.
Last edited by V.8MR; Jul 31, 2016 at 05:28 PM.
Just making sure this is a track & not stance build =)
Aug 1, 2016, 07:17 AM
#88
Wont know until alignment, but I'm not going to slam the car for any kind of visual goal. Just want it to be functionally as low as possible. I don't think its possible to get wild camber even maxed out with stock arms and eccentric bolt. Once its good enough to put down on its own weight I'll trailer it to get corner balanced and race aligned. Thinking something like the following but I need to research some more:
Max front caster possible
-3 camber up front
-2.2 in the rear
Zero toe all around
I got rear c/o installed. Good clearance to the wheel/tire from what I can see.
I have a lot of little stuff to do now. Like putting rear drum brakes back together, wheel speed sensors, rear sway-bar, new bolts/gaskets for exhaust(old ones rusted out) etc.
Max front caster possible
-3 camber up front
-2.2 in the rear
Zero toe all around
I got rear c/o installed. Good clearance to the wheel/tire from what I can see.
I have a lot of little stuff to do now. Like putting rear drum brakes back together, wheel speed sensors, rear sway-bar, new bolts/gaskets for exhaust(old ones rusted out) etc.
toe out front (1/16-1/8" total as a starting point)
toe in rear (0-1/16" total as a starting point)
more front camber (-3.5 range as a starting point)
and learn to do your own alignments. Paying $500 each time for a "race alignment" gets expensive when you are constantly tinkering. It also makes it difficult if you want to adjust the alignment at the track.
Aug 1, 2016, 09:17 AM
#89
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
If this is a track only car,
toe out front (1/16-1/8" total as a starting point)
toe in rear (0-1/16" total as a starting point)
more front camber (-3.5 range as a starting point)
and learn to do your own alignments. Paying $500 each time for a "race alignment" gets expensive when you are constantly tinkering. It also makes it difficult if you want to adjust the alignment at the track.
toe out front (1/16-1/8" total as a starting point)
toe in rear (0-1/16" total as a starting point)
more front camber (-3.5 range as a starting point)
and learn to do your own alignments. Paying $500 each time for a "race alignment" gets expensive when you are constantly tinkering. It also makes it difficult if you want to adjust the alignment at the track.
