It's best to have them each individually go to the manifold. I originally had my boost controller sourced from a T between the BOV and manifold vac line. I figured out that it was a much better option to have the BOV go straight to the manifold with no t's in between(which it was from the factory). Boost controller boost source as close as the compressor as possible. The less vac line, the better.

Its especially nice to have the boost gauge at the intake mani, because thats what you really what to know the boost at.

I'm sure your manifold is a lot different than the evo ones. I have a bunch of sources to use, especially after I removed the EGR crap. So I'm sure its a bit difficult with your setup to find extra sources without a lot of work.

Maybe you should look into a vacuum block? I don't have any experience with them and have no clue if they are beneficial at all tho. :/

 

anybody wanna take a quick pic or do a drawing on how to set it up? I just want to stop asking questions, plus I want to get it right the first time so I dont f*** anything up.

Im getting some of this but I keep thinking I need to T the line between the fpr and the mani.

 

ok guys just a couple of questions

Do i need to customize the downpipe to make it fit? or do I use a test pipe to complete the connection? I remember someone saying you might need to customize but I wasnt sure.

And I drew a pic of the BOV and the stock FPR so which one is right and if they both are not then can some copy my pic and draw the proper connection.

TEED FPR


Not Teed

 

Definately do not leave the fpr off you would run extremely rich at idle it would throw everything off. The first pic is how I have mine. Mutiple ports off the intake mani would be best but not a necessity. Not only that I have another tee coming off the line going to the bov to supply my boost guage. Hmmm maybe this is part of my leaning issue... might try something now that I thought of it.

 

Thanks man that's what I needed to know I think I'll just run a t from the mani and I'll do another t coming just inches from the mani after my first t for the bov. Alright going to home depot tomorow anyone know what size t's I need to buy tomorrow?

 

Ok this test pipe thing is so confusing....

Ok I want to keep the evo 8 stock downpipe till I get my taxes back next year. What kind of Test pipe do I need to buy in order to fit my evo 8 stock downpipe and my 2.25" magnaflow exhaust system? please help I need o buy one today hopefully...

 

custom.

get 2 flanges of whatever diameter the dp is ( i believe 2.5"), 2 gaskets, and go to your local auto parts store and get some pipe and weld it together.


this way you keep the evo dp and you keep yur lancer exhaust.

jsoh

 

+1 Really simple

 

ok I do that but I think I'll just cut that downpipe flange and weld a pipe on it and the flange at the end

 

^^ or yes you could do that too.

id do it the way i mentioned only because then if you ever decide to/ need to put a cat in for whatever reason, wyou wont have to buy a new dp to make it work

they sell universal cats that you can put yur own flanges on, so id say save yurself the hassle and just make the testpipe, that way you wont be re doing it later on down the road.


josh

 

ok I found two flanges on eBay I can get and I'll run to autozone and buy that pipe, Josh how would I make the hole for the wideband/o2 hole in the pipe? I was thinking about if it gets difficult and expensive I could just buy the test pipe and cut the section out I don't need, get it fitted, and weld the two together to make the 12" you said I needed. I'm about to go measure right now.

 

Ok I just went to lowes and bought some tee fittings I bought two plastic, two brass, and I have a smaller tube that connects to the outlet compressor pipe well I didnt know if I was going to tee into that so i just a three way opener and bought three seperate connectors for it to make a brass tee here are some pics





Ok tell me if Im missing something, I tee the following

the vacumm line from the intake manifold to the boost gauge, the recirculating bov, and the stock fpr.

Then I coud tee the coolant lines but its better to just run two lines into the circulation from the turbo.

 

So I'm going to home depot to pick up some coolant lines becuz I read that you cam use dish washer ss braided lines is this true! And if so what length of lines do I need? Picking them up tomorrow around noon as well as my aem wideband

 

hey guys just an update. I will be done with my kit in about 1 more month!!! Then its turbo time. lol

Im getting my Aem wideband today, Then Im buying my manifold off speed corps next week, and then all I need is the ARP head studs, Walbro fuel Pump, and a forge adjustable wastegate.

If you guys know any subsitutes for the walbro fuel pump and the head studs let me know so i can get something cheaper. And if anyone knows someone that is selling or if you are selling a forge adjustable wastegate for an evo 8 turbo let me know.

 

Hey guys showing the list of what i have left I might be done by late may instead, I still need to buy the tri pillar for my gauges and one single for my steering colum. But here my list

· TD05HR 16g 9.8 turbo - $285
· 5- 10 lb spring – 29.00
· EVO 9 intercooler plus piping -$150
· stainless steel O2 housing - $50
· 440cc injectors - $85
· Stock evo 9 blow off valve – 60.00
· Walbro fuel pump – 55.00 just bought today
· forge adjustable wastegate actuator -
· ARP head studs – 130.00 speed corps
· Turbo Manifold – 250 speed corps buying tomorrow
· AEM wideband gauge – 190
· Egt gauge – $80.00 Defi blue gauge just paid today waiting for response
AMS boost controller – 35.00
· Spectre Air filter - 24
· 2, 10” slim fans – 59.00
· Greddy Oil pressure Gauge - 70
· Greddy Boost gauge- 75
· oil feed - $70
· Oil return kit -$80
· Air intake Tube - 10
· Mini Filters -20
· Compressor Outlet - $21
· Donut gasket – 15
· Compressor outlet pipe gasket – 6
if anyone know someone who is selling the arp headstuds and the forge wga for cheap please let me know asap