Okay, got mine flashed yesterday and they cleared the CEL too. Started 'er up this morning and bam, another CEL. I have to go back on monday, this sucks! Everyone else can't even get a CEL, and I can't get rid of mine, even with the reflash...

 

I called the dealer and they said that the reflash is only for ppl that have problems with their idle..,,,,,?

 

Some preliminary feedback...

Just got mine done at Concord Mitsubishi (great service, very competent crew there) the other day and put 100 miles on the car. The sweep across the full RPM band is much smoother now. For the 60 miles to Concord I reset the MPG computer and got 21-22 mostly driving 65-70 on the freeway. After the reflash and driving the same route back under the same conditions, the computer was reset and was showing 25-26.

I'll know more after running a few more tanks of gas and doing the calculation the old-fashioned way, but the computed results are certainly encouraging. I'd be very happy to get an extra 4 MPG.

 

That's good to know, I only had my car for about 2 weeks now and I noticed that sometimes the car would start to idle weird and it has shut off on me twice so far. I guess I'll be calling the dealer on Monday.

 

All things that are happening with my car...... Thank god for this forum..lol I'll be calling the dealer on Monday about this.

 

True, but why bother with piggy back garbage when a reflash offers so much more precision and control? I know, some people are worried about the ecu flash being traceable by the dealership, but most flashes can write over the flash counter in the ecu and the original factory map can always be flashed back on the car for warranty work if needed. Just my .02

 

I was wondering if anyone with a VIN after the number covered by the TSB has been having any issues?

My car is 049329 so I am a couple hundred above the TSB number. Is it safe to assume i already have the update?

The only reason i can't comment on this myself is because I don't take delivery of my car till tuesday Its waiting at the dealership for the factory aero kit to get installed. Sitting there with 6 miles on it, 4 put on by the test drive

John

 

I wonder how hard it will be to get the flash done here in GUAM? I should be able to pick the car up from the shippers on WED.

 

Guys forget about looking up your VIN as my car was well outside the TSB range and had no mention of any needed updates in the system. As I understand TSB's are not official authorized repairs but are technical advisements. However they can be submitted for reimbursed for work performed.
Ask them very nicely to connect your car to their MEDIC diagnostic system and see what comes up. As I had mentioned in my post I reflashed my own car! the system once updated and with my vin found an update that specifically addressed my issue "hesitation at high RPM". It takes all of 10 minutes from start to finish.

 

For anyone that interested here is a link to a training video of the MEDIC II system in action
http://mitsubishi.spx.com/video.aspx

 

Because the "garbage" as you call it makes the same or more horsepower. You seem to offer advice regularly to the long time stalwarts of this site, obviously you are someone with great tuning skills, where is your shop located?

 

^Well, piggy backs don't make more power than a reflash, I don't where you got that from. They are comparable in terms of power output however, the driveability factor is almost always better with a reflash. Intercepting and manipulating ecu signals is crude and limiting when compared to altering the raw data at the source like a reflash.

Not that it should matter, but I worked for a tuning company out in Co for a few years and one of my best friends owns a dyno tuning shop with some of the fastest evos, stis, and supras around. I don't have to own my own shop to have years of experience or to know what I'm talking about.

Some people like piggy backs and some prefer reflashes. I personally don't like piggy backs and never have. If you don't agree with me then fine, but keep the sarcasm to yourself.

 

The level of "crudeness" depends on the sophistication of the piggyback and the method of installation. In 1999 when Mustangs went Canbus, there were no tuning solutions, so people were installing AEM and FAST and Motec as piggybacks, and leaving the EEC to run the gauge cluster. Technically, that's a pigglyback. A piggyback doesn't have to just modify a signal, it can replace a signal, and let the factory ECU control the non vital vehicle outputs.

You're right, it really doesn't matter. I knew a guy who was an astronaut and I worked for the company that was the primary contractor supplying propulsion systems for the space shuttle. Those things combined didn't make me an expert on space travel.

The same can be said for yourself. If you don't have direct experience with the question at hand, you should keep your speculation to yourself. OR, you should present the information as speculation, not as fact. I've gone and read alot of your posts on this website, and very few give any actual valuable information, and most all are speculation presented as fact. In most cases you then caveat the wording with "just my .02", which implies it's your opinion, but given the wording it really means you consider the information posted was absolute fact and you are just distributing a small portion of it. Specualtion is in fact speculation, not fact. If you are going to speculate one possibility, you should speculate a second scenario, otherwise you are implying fact.

 

Well an AEM standalone being used as a "piggy back" doesn't take away from the fact that it's still a standalone, so I don't know where you are going with that one. Moving on, I present any information as my opinion based on fact and my own personal experience. As I mentioned before, I don't like reflashes, and in most cases (perhaps not all) piggy backs don't offer the same level of control and precision as a reflash. This is a fact, and it is my opinion that this makes piggy backs inferior.

If you like piggy backs then by all means, use them. I just don't like them and I make my recommendations based on that. I am only trying to help people not make the same mistake that I made when I bought a UTEC for my STi. I know that there are many piggy back options that are better than the UTEC out there, but many run static timing just like the UTEC and that's a dangerous feature. If the car starts to knock it is incapable of pulling timing and will destroy your motor if you let it.

Thankfully this didn't happen to me, but put it this way as soon as reflash software came out I swapped it out faster than you can say, "piggy backs suck." Again, I know that many piggybacks work better than this, but it is crude and limiting no matter how you look at it if a reflash is available. Your point earlier was that for canbus mustangs there were no tuning options at the time and piggybacks were all that was available. My response to that would be to say, "so what?"

In that case I don't blame them for using them, but it doesn't change the fact that reflashes offer more control over more parameters of the ecu and usually offer better driveability. This is because many piggy backs only offer WOT control, and when transitioning from part to full throttle there is a hesitaion while the maps are switched from stock ecu control to piggyback interception.

This creates a boggy, jerky sensation and to me is very crude and spartan. Again as I've said so many times before, if you don't agree with my opinion then fine but don't lecture me on my presentation of fact vs opinion. Everything that anyone posts is their opinion, based on fact or speculation. Since you like it when I term things this way, I will add that this is just "my .02"

 

Wow, there are some good points on here and just some jerks on here. I'll let you two fight/figure it out.